Rotor 3D+ / 3D+MAS how to install and uninstall this correct

[wheelsONfire]

Some seem to have had issues installing and uninstalling the Rotor cranks.
Just keep an eye at the self extractor nut (silver coloured) when you take the crank off.
This bolt needs to be mounted after the red bolt when crank comes off.
Also see to it, to turn the silver coloured self extractor the other way around.
Do not mount it as it was, turn it around, or you won't get this right and you will destroy the threads.
If you do not turn it around, it won't bottom out when you thread it in.
If self extractor is not bottomed out during mounting, when you undo the crank, using the red bolt for untorquing, the self extractor will be forced out as it is not mounted correct.
Do this procedure faullty will tear your threads.
Look at the video and it will be fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbkbXl8XRXI

See picture of tool needed for self extractor nut

[Method01]

If I look at the video, it all goes much easier. I need more force to untorque it. And I'm sure I'm doing it right .

However, is it normal that the red bolt is scratched from installing and uninstalling the crank?

[wheelsONfire]

Look at the pictures.

Top picture: This is how self extractor is mounted in the crank when you mount the crank.
Lower picture: This is how the self extractor is supposed to be mounted when you undo the crank.

When you undo the crank, you first mount the red bolt, then this self extractor.

[wheelsONfire]

Looks like this when you should undo crank. Ofcourse you need to torque this. This is just for you to see how it is supposed to be when you mount it, for taking crank off.

No, red bolt should not need to be scratched!

[Method01]

That's how I do it, still scratched.. The video at 4:50, it comes off really easily. With my 3D+, I need to put a lot of force for about 3 rotations

I should have done more research before I bought the 3D+, I really don't like the system..

This seems more realistic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY6gwX2WpNw

The red bolt pushes against the reversible nut in the last fase, that's why it has scratches.. Here is an example (it's not my crank)

[wheelsONfire]

I think my red end bolt has another appearance so it might be that it's not precisely looking as yours.
It seems it is just a tiny bit re-designed and perhaps it is to save it from scratches!?

I posted Rotors own video as it is made by the guy from Rotor. There is just headache when you buy something and it gets damaged due to some small mistake.
I think we all do them at times, but if some of them could be voided, it is less headache and expenses.

Be well and ride safe

[Method01]

I asked Rotor about it and the answer: "Thanks for contacting us, this is quite normal that red bolt on drive side get scratched by this action."

So no worries

[grouk]

i have contact the rotor support about some issues

Thanks for contacting RotorBike, we are really glad that you are on our products. To answer your questions.

As you might know there are several option which could be causing creaking noises. Most of the time is bottom bracket , sometimes creaks come from rings.

You asked me for function of O Ring? O ring has been added to assemble in order to fine adjust preload on 3D crankset.

Preload nut has no specific torque to adjust, this must be assembled without pressuring bearings and crankset must turned smoothly.

For preload nut you could use thread lock glue.

For DTT bolt for left side is 7-8NM.



For the QXL front mech shims kit please ask your local shop or distributor. They can always place an order with us.

Check link below in order to find your premium shop.

[Gavin929]

i have removed my cranks several times without scarring the red bolt. just be careful how far your insert the cassette tool and don't let it rub the bolt when extracting.

[Gavin929]

you could also just buy a spare red bolt for around $20 and use the scratched one every time you need to remove the crankset. not a huge cost considering the price of the crank and chainrings.

[Method01]

Good plan!