rotor 3d instructions

[grouk]

I am about to receive my new bike, spec venge 2015, but i will keep my spec roubaix to training and to winter bike,
i am using a rotor crankset with qxl chainrings and power2max, i want to swap the crankset between bikes, my question is
what is the best procedure to make the switch?
what is the correct order and torque of the screws?
What does the oring do?

I ask these questions because sometimes when i take the crank to clean the bike appear some creaks from the cranks,
actually have not figured the best way to correct assemble it

could you help me

[jo.k]

Loosen the pinch bolt ~2 full revolutions (but do not, ever, remove it completely), then remove the preload nut. Remove NDS crank arm and O-ring, and push the DS assembly out.

For installation, grease all surfaces and push the DS assembly in. Slip on O-ring, then NDS crank arm and tighten the preload nut until there is no play. Finally tighten the pinch bolt.

Given enough reinstallations, though, two things will probably start to happen -- first, the O-ring seal will eventually break and snap, so it is probably a good idea to stock some extras of these. I've tried to just use generic O-rings for this purpose, but they were either thicker or more fragile, and might have been the root cause for the second problem, which is that the threads for the preload nut will start to wear enough so that it eventually falls off mid ride. I don't know if this is due to just general wear, or if using a thicker O-ring so that fewer threads were carrying the load was to blame.

I have around 25K kms on a very similar setup to yours, and have started to use a light thread lock on the preload nut. I have also changed to a red one so that I remember to check it every once in a while ...

[grouk]

Tanks

that is more or less my procedure.
i have to get some orings extra. mine is smashed. about the thread lock i tink is a very good idea because I've seen fall the preload nut during ride

[wheelsONfire]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbkbXl8XRXI

All you need is avaible at youtube.

[Pokerface07]

Small difference, but I always remove the pre-load bolt first - then loosen the pinch bolt until the crank arm comes off.

Reason being that on mine, it can take 4, 5 or even 6 turns to go from fully tight to loose enough to get the arm off. If the preload bolt is on, I won't know if it's loose enough!

Also - with the little rubber o-ring you mention: is that just for Pressfit BBs?

I certainly used the rubber ring in between the crank arm and the BB on my BBRight frames, but with standard Hollowtech BBs, the cups already have a ridge on them that the crank arm pushes up against. No need for the ring. In fact, if you use the ring, it can make it harder to get the arm on properly?