Fairwheel Crank Test

[NiFTY]

I have an old S works crankset as well as a set of hollowgrams. The S works crnaks have over 30,000 k's on them and are going strong, no creaks, finish holding up well. They feel no different stiffness wise to me comapred to the hollowgrams.

They are a bargain, but you have fewer power meter options with them compared to hollowgrams.

[itsacarr]

I have managed to own both sets of these cranks as well and honestly have trouble telling the difference. I "felt" the q-factor of the Cannonades was a bit narrower but both cranks personally felt noticeably stiffer than just about any other crank I have tried. Still a feeling but for sure they stand out. Cost wise I wonder if the cost to manufacture for cannondale is higher than the s-works. Can't go wrong with either though.

[deek]

Red BB30 is also very light, stiff, and cheap. Unfortunately they didn't test that crank in the latest shoot out.

[aaric]

I think the issue with the s-works cranks is that they come on many bikes, and there are quite a few iterations of them. People part them out, swap them out for different lengths, or switch to a shimano crankset pretty commonly. Older year versions usually are quite affordable as well, as some people just have to have the latest/greatest iteration.

Power meter wise, you have quarq, SRM, and power2max. Hollogram adds stages, 4iii since its aluminum. I'd wager the hollowgram would stand up better to heel rub, nicks, and scratches being aluminum rather than carbon. Hollowgrams are probably significantly more expensive to manufacture in aluminum than the s-works are in carbon.

I've run 3-4 different sets of the s-works on various bikes, and actually run a set on my Felt with logos removed and an SRM spider. I've not had any issues with creaks / reliability. Red BB30 is also good, cheap, and readily available - I think they are actually cheaper than the latest generation s-works.

[MichaelB]

Red BB30 is also very light, stiff, and cheap. Unfortunately they didn't test that crank in the latest shoot out.

I actually had a Red BB30 version previously, but the pedal insert failed on both sides, so that was the end of that. The Force 22 version was drafted in as that's what was easily available at the time.

Not looking at a Power meter, so that's not an issue.

Is there any issues with the older versions, as the Crank test used the 2015 version ?


Sounds like I might be shopping for a new crank then !!!! Good enough for the WT teams (Astana), so can't be that bad.


No other special tools required ?

I'll do a bit more research before taking the plunge.

Thanks again guys

[MichaelB]

Oh, and a couple more questions.

I have found a good crank but with 130BCD setup. I know I'll need a different spider and the tool to suit. Any recommended sites as to the bet price and quality ?
Ta

[aaric]

Ebay is probably your best bet for the spider. The tool to change it from specialized is ridiculously expensive ($175?), but includes bearing tools as well. I bought a 3rd party tool from ebay: "Specialized S-Works Crankset Spider Lockring Removal Tool BB30 Carbon SWORKS" was about $50. Well made, and works great. I originally bought a tool from Quarq for $40, but it had a tendency to want to jump out of the notches and strip them out.


There's also a long torx that comes with the retail version of the crank for joining the hirth joint for install/uninstall.


The spiders are pretty expensive retail, and the 110 BCD ones are rarer. You'll spend less money overall just buying a 110BCD spider mounted, unless you plan on swapping spiders around a lot. You might get lucky and find somebody in the classifieds getting rid of one. The silver/alloy spiders are generally cheaper and will work, but it looks worse IMO.

The newer versions of the cranks are slightly stiffer, and have different paint work. The oldest ones have a weave. Also, there are non s-works arms that seem to be the same weight wise. I've not ridden the latest version of the cranks, but each generation is supposed to be stiffer, at about the same weight

[MichaelB]

Thanks aaric.

It seems that the combo of 175mm arms and a compact spider is thin on the ground. Same goes for SISL as well 170 or especially 172.5 mm are dime a dozen !!!!

Thought that the BBT-18 would work, but seems it isn't deep enough.

Any idea of the vintage of these ones ?



I'll keep looking. Interesting thing is that new arms are available direct from Specialized for US$300. No spider though.


Any leads on some 175mm compact S-Works cranks would be great !!!

Cheers

Michael B

[MichaelB]

Good !!

Great

[vejnemojnen]

Came across an older version of the test, done in 2011.

https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/fair-wheel-crank-test-4/

[MichaelB]

Just proved that the ISIS 8 notch type removal tool doesn't fit the Spesh spider locknut - the teeth have too smaller BCD (aside from the bore of the tool to go over the axle).

So, I'm reduced to either the one that @aaric linked to above (that would cost A$89) landed in Aus, or this one from Shapeways

http://www.shapeways.com/product/L8WSEPXTW/specialized-s-works-crank-spider-lockring-removal



which is a 3D printed stainless steel item and lands at A$72

Any preferences/suggestions ? Or even other options ?

[eric01]

Cannondale has new BB30a standard which is wider correct? Did the SISL get updated to accommodate or does the existing one fit BB30A as well?

I know its been well documented that you cannot jam a SISL into other bottom bracket standards without some serious modifications and/or chain line issues. Just wondering if the new BB30A changes this.

[mariovalentim]

since I saw the FW stem topic and the discussion of why there's no zipp stem at the test it reminded me a question that I have for the FW guys...
Is there a reason for the lack of rotor cranks in the test?

[madcow]

The only reason the rotor crank was not included was that we didn't have one available when we did this round of testing. We have tested 2 different rotor cranks in previous tests though and plan on adding it back in for the next test.

[mariovalentim]

The only reason the rotor crank was not included was that we didn't have one available when we did this round of testing. We have tested 2 different rotor cranks in previous tests though and plan on adding it back in for the next test.

thanks madcow! it would be great to see how they compare to that list!