Clavicula Road Compact Ticking :-(
Moderator: robbosmans
Hello,
I have bought a second hand Clavicula Road Compact Crank, problem is that it has a ticking sound.
The ticking sound can be produced on the Bike Stand when I block the rearwheel and put pressure on one of the Pedals and than give a Minor, very minor, hit on the Crank arm.
You hit from Right to Left, this matters because it can not be produced when you give the minor hit from Left to Right, with both the Crank-Arms the ticking sound can be produced.
The sound produced is exact when driving the bike.....
BB is normal BSA.
What I already done:
- Swap Wheels.
- New BB bearings, used the old Cups.
- New Chainring Bolts, from THM.
- Disassembled Seatpost / Fork and checked everything.
- Greased Chainring Bolts, Chainrings contact on the spider, but also ungreased it.
- Put Teflon Tape on the Cups.
- Greased the Aluminium Bolts on the Left Arm.
- Left off the Center Bolt.
- Ungreased completly the Spindle but also Greased it.
I am running Super Record 11 speed non-electric. with Stronglight CT2 11 speed chainrings.
Maybe anyone a Idea?
Thanks!
I have bought a second hand Clavicula Road Compact Crank, problem is that it has a ticking sound.
The ticking sound can be produced on the Bike Stand when I block the rearwheel and put pressure on one of the Pedals and than give a Minor, very minor, hit on the Crank arm.
You hit from Right to Left, this matters because it can not be produced when you give the minor hit from Left to Right, with both the Crank-Arms the ticking sound can be produced.
The sound produced is exact when driving the bike.....
BB is normal BSA.
What I already done:
- Swap Wheels.
- New BB bearings, used the old Cups.
- New Chainring Bolts, from THM.
- Disassembled Seatpost / Fork and checked everything.
- Greased Chainring Bolts, Chainrings contact on the spider, but also ungreased it.
- Put Teflon Tape on the Cups.
- Greased the Aluminium Bolts on the Left Arm.
- Left off the Center Bolt.
- Ungreased completly the Spindle but also Greased it.
I am running Super Record 11 speed non-electric. with Stronglight CT2 11 speed chainrings.
Maybe anyone a Idea?
Thanks!
-
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 4:18 am
- Location: Australia
Hi,
I've had the occasional annoying click too. For me, problems have been:
Seatpost -small movement of the post within the frame. Metal on metal gives click.
Diagnosed- click is present when seated pedalling but disappears upon standing and riding out of the saddle.
Problem was caused by paint wearing off seatpost (ritchey wet black paint) causing just a tiny bit of movement. Remedy with new seatpost. Temp remedy - liberally greased seatpost and inside of seat tube.
Chainring bolts- athena chainset. Movement.
diagnosed- audible from area.
Remedy by disassembly and complete regrease of outside of bolts where they sit in the chainrings as well as insides (outsides weren't greasedfrom factory for mine) plus fasten bolts tightly.
Frame crack (alloy frame).
Diagnosed- visual inspection.
Remedy - warranty.
It could also be worthwhile checking your pedals with regreasing the threads and re torquing them in case they are loose.
Cheers,I
I've had the occasional annoying click too. For me, problems have been:
Seatpost -small movement of the post within the frame. Metal on metal gives click.
Diagnosed- click is present when seated pedalling but disappears upon standing and riding out of the saddle.
Problem was caused by paint wearing off seatpost (ritchey wet black paint) causing just a tiny bit of movement. Remedy with new seatpost. Temp remedy - liberally greased seatpost and inside of seat tube.
Chainring bolts- athena chainset. Movement.
diagnosed- audible from area.
Remedy by disassembly and complete regrease of outside of bolts where they sit in the chainrings as well as insides (outsides weren't greasedfrom factory for mine) plus fasten bolts tightly.
Frame crack (alloy frame).
Diagnosed- visual inspection.
Remedy - warranty.
It could also be worthwhile checking your pedals with regreasing the threads and re torquing them in case they are loose.
Cheers,I
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-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 4:36 pm
- Location: Aachen, Germany
You mention the "spindle," but have you carefully checked the two metal rings on the crank axle? I also had a ticking sound, and when I disassembled the crank I found that one ring had come loose; it spun on the carbon axle. Only two days ago, I sent the crank back to THM.
Pedals are checked, also without pedals I can reproduce the Ticking sound
Yesterday I found out when I put pressure on the Crank Arm at 3:00 o'clock from inside to outside, and I give a minor hit on the arm from the outside the Ticking sound can be reproduced..., on both Crank arms.
I noticed also when I bold on the central screw from the left cranck arm, it is impossible to block it. This screw has as function to adjust the play sideways, normally when it is to thight your Crank will not run around smoothly.
I do feel a little bit of side play at 3:00 o'clock, but not on 6:00 o'clock.
Thanks!
Yesterday I found out when I put pressure on the Crank Arm at 3:00 o'clock from inside to outside, and I give a minor hit on the arm from the outside the Ticking sound can be reproduced..., on both Crank arms.
I noticed also when I bold on the central screw from the left cranck arm, it is impossible to block it. This screw has as function to adjust the play sideways, normally when it is to thight your Crank will not run around smoothly.
I do feel a little bit of side play at 3:00 o'clock, but not on 6:00 o'clock.
Thanks!
Maybe as you've changed the bearings and not the cups, could be that the bearings are not perfectly fitted into the BB cups.
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Still Ticking Crank has been sent to THM twice, and is now almost completly refurbished.....
However now I pin-pointed the problem, when cupbearing at the driveside is not tight fitted to the bracket there is no Ticking.....
Thought use of 1mm spacer should be the possible solution, however no still ticking with spacer. However when I loosen the cupbearing at driveside Ticking is gone.
Can not be the frame because I fitted a Campagnolo Crank, everything was fine no Ticking what so ever.....
Any one a idea......?
Thanks!
However now I pin-pointed the problem, when cupbearing at the driveside is not tight fitted to the bracket there is no Ticking.....
Thought use of 1mm spacer should be the possible solution, however no still ticking with spacer. However when I loosen the cupbearing at driveside Ticking is gone.
Can not be the frame because I fitted a Campagnolo Crank, everything was fine no Ticking what so ever.....
Any one a idea......?
Thanks!
If you have play at 3 o clock and not at 6 o clock then this can only be the bearings or the cup. There must be wear/space causing movement.
Being you replaced the bearings then it must be the cup.
Being you replaced the bearings then it must be the cup.
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