Bearing shield for SiSl2 PF30 & 109mm spindle install tips
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi!
Long time lurker, after some advice.
I just bought some new Cannondale Sisl2 cranks and a Wheels MFG PF30 BB. This BB has a squishy-silicone bearing shield pre-installed. Should I be using this bearing shield or the original Cannondale bearing shields? The Cannondale bearing shields have a slightly smaller outer diameter (since they are for BB30), leaving more of a gap for dirt to get in. Images of each are below.
Also, is it OK if I use a super-fine grit sandpaper to sand down the 109mm spindle to aid installation? The bearing/spindle interface is extremely tight. My Campy Over-Torque PF30/spindle interface has a decent amount of play and they worked flawlessly.
OR
Long time lurker, after some advice.
I just bought some new Cannondale Sisl2 cranks and a Wheels MFG PF30 BB. This BB has a squishy-silicone bearing shield pre-installed. Should I be using this bearing shield or the original Cannondale bearing shields? The Cannondale bearing shields have a slightly smaller outer diameter (since they are for BB30), leaving more of a gap for dirt to get in. Images of each are below.
Also, is it OK if I use a super-fine grit sandpaper to sand down the 109mm spindle to aid installation? The bearing/spindle interface is extremely tight. My Campy Over-Torque PF30/spindle interface has a decent amount of play and they worked flawlessly.
OR
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Hi, I have the exact same crank as you but used tripeak pf30 cups instead. What my mechanic/friend did for me was that he used cannondale's bearing shield and some lub to work the crank in. He did not sand the spindle down and was able to knock it in with a mallet (not sure if I am correct). I guess the bearing shield is of no consequence as I did ask him the same question as you.
- shoemakerpom2010
- Posts: 296
- Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: Palm Coast, Fl.
goodboyr wrote:Hold a can of compressed air upside down and spray into hollow shaft. It will rapidly cool down shaft and shrink it enough to allow an easy slide in and out.
Used this method numerous times so far with that spindle and it works very easy.
I tried compressed air as well as freezing the spindle but neither was really much help as it still displaced the bearing on the opposite side when inserting the spindle not to mention banging on a drift placed against the spider of a Hollowgram SRM with a rubber mallet is simply not an option! I used a Dewalt cordless drill to 'polish' the spindle with water and a very fine grade of emory cloth. After 30-45 seconds, the spindle was nice and smooth and could be inserted in BB30/PF30 bearings by hand with minor effort and no mallet required.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
I hand sanded my spindle with fine grit sandpaper and water. (SISL, 104mm spindle) People can say what they want about freezing the spindle and tapping it in but when it re-expands it will still load your bearings and cause premature destruction. I sanded mine after my first BB died in 4,000ks. Just go slowly with sanding, be even, and stop as soon as it can be pressed in by hand.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
jpanspac wrote:I would like to sand my spindle down a hair, but my drill chuck doesn't open wide enough to grab the spindle. How did you do it?
I threaded in a spare SiSl crank bolt into the end of the spindle, then using a 1/2-Inch Drive 10mm Hex bit socket, that was snapped onto a 1/4" to 1/2" drive adapter, thus allowing the drill to drive the 10mm crank bolt while polishing the spindle.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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