Colnago C59 Headset Woes

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SGcyclist
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:21 am

by SGcyclist

I've done a thorough search and couldn't find anything.

My C59 has the headset that uses a 70mm plug in rather than an expander plug. After a 250km ride last weekend I noticed play in the headset. I watched this video ( http://www.o0.ma/video_WxLBcYr6N4I_---- ... on---.html ) to get some tips on how to tighten the headset but it didn't work.

I've googled and come across conflicting info on how to exactly tighten the headset. I've been on the ACROS website too but it didn't help. One thing that i've noticed is that after the stem and plug are off the steerer tube and the headset is loosened only the bottom part of the headset twists so that i can align it. I recall being able to twist the entire headset, both top and bottom, in order to align it.

Any tips and info would be much appreciated as taking time off from work to bring it to the lbs is a pain. Thanks

Harmitc
Posts: 150
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:56 pm

by Harmitc

Quick solution is to set the Acros headset to minimum preload, then use a std expander in the headtube and preload as normal. The C60 has reverted to a std method of adjustment. The Acros is nicely machined but does seem prone to loosening after quite short periods. The C60 is supplied with a spacer than mimics the stack height of the Acros. If you can order one of these just remove the Acros use the new Colnago spacer and then preload with a conventional expander plug.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

When I first saw they were using this headset I thought it was a bad design, and thought about the exact scenario you seem to be describing. I would do as @Harmitc suggests and just make sure the two "wedged" pieces of the acros system are completely closed and solid against each other. Then just use a compression plug on top and adjust the "normal" way. A friend of mine replaced the whole Acros headset system with the one they were using just before that. I'll find out if he had to replace the cups pressed into the headtube as well, but that is certainly doable if you wanted to do that. I think he did, because one system used angular bearings and the other didn't, if I recall correctly. Not sure though.

I never grasped how a little tiny bolt and the wedge system underneath the stem was expected to stay adjusted and not work itself loose with use. it doesn't lock. It's a tiny screw, and the wedge system will naturally want to loosen itself with any pressure. Shame on colnago for allowing this into their designs. I think it's a poor design for the very reason you are describing.

Actually, just re read @Harmitc's post abovfe and looks like Colnago is at least offering an equivalent spacer which allows for normal adjustment with a plug and top cap, so you shouldn't have to worry about replacing the cups in the headtube. I'd pick up one of those spacers, because it's solid and also does away with that dirt collecting space caused by the wedge system.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

SGcyclist
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:21 am

by SGcyclist

Thanks for the advise, much appreciated. On further review it seems like no matter how hard I push down on the stem and tighten the bottom of the acros will become misaligned and expand like there is not enough pressure from above. When it is tightened all the way the fork moves swivels freely back and forth like nothing was done. I ended up purchasing this headset ( http://www.bikebug.com/accessories-head ... 40616.html ) so hopefully I don't have to replace the cups. I thought about calling the local shop that is a distributor to order the C60 piece but they have always provided piss poor service even when a customer buys a really expensive bike from them so I doubt they would help me out.

I seem to recall the Canyon, Time, and Look use a similar design but I haven't come across anything in regards to the headset loosening.

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kman
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:51 am
Location: Sydney, Australia

by kman

Sounds like what's on my focus izalco. I've had the bike a month and had to adjust the headset already.
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TimW
Posts: 536
Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:52 pm
Location: England, UK

by TimW

This stupid headset design is something that really puts me off the C60. Why did they change something that works well for something worse?

wilwil
Posts: 693
Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm

by wilwil

TimW wrote:This stupid headset design is something that really puts me off the C60. Why did they change something that works well for something worse?

You can change it for standard one. Not sure why the Acos was invented, totally unnecessary. Canyon use them too.

Harmitc
Posts: 150
Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 6:56 pm

by Harmitc

It's not used on the C60. The stack height of the headset is the same C59 to 60 but the C60 uses a totally standard arrangement. As I said above you could easily replace the C59 Acros with the C60 replacement. Then just preload using a std expander plug.

TimW
Posts: 536
Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 1:52 pm
Location: England, UK

by TimW

Ah thanks, good to know :lol:

SGcyclist
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:21 am

by SGcyclist

***Update****Found a Solution***

After more searching on this forum I came across a Canyon thread with a suggested solution that involved a mallet. I run my stem slammed on the acros with a 5mm spacer on top. So all I did while everything was loosened and making sure the acros was aligned was smack the topcap a couple of times till I saw zero space between the 2 acros pieces. Then I straightened everything and tightened things up and there was no more play. I don't know if this is just a temporary fix but I'm hoping it's not.

Hope this helps anyone looking for a fix.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Isn't that what we were already suggesting in effect... To get rid of the space between the two wedges as that is a terrible design. Loosening the little screw all the way and compressing the two wedges essentially makes it into a solid spacer allowing you to use a normal top cap and expander plug to add the compression before tightening everything down. Sounds like you used the Fred Flintstone method and while you banged everything into place, there was nothing to provide just a little compression while you were tightening up the stem, right? You may be fine, if all the play was taken out completely and remained that way while you tightened down the stem but I'd still prefer a normal expander plug and top cap.

Yours truly,
Barney
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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wilwil
Posts: 693
Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm

by wilwil

Im just changing the Acros Clamp headset on my C59 to a C60 conventional version and the top bearing does need to be changed as it isn't angled. Maybe not the bottom one if you use the old fork race.

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