Neat Di2 Routing on Shiv TT

[bfno]

Hey guys,

Looking to chuck some DA Di2 on the Shiv TT in the near future but I've run into some problems, primarily the fact that the BB shell is closed so wires cannot be accessed in that junction easily.

I would like to route it as neat as possible so an internal battery is a must, but this means I need at least a 3 port junction to charge which is a bummer (unless anyone knows a way around this).

The Shiv TT stem and bars also give little help as to routing anything internal except for wires as there is little space.

This is what I have drawn up so far which I think is the best for hiding stuff, would require removing seat post to charge though (sorry for my photoshop skills!)



Tell me what you think and if you have any better ideas.

P.S. I would prefer to not have to drill any holes in the frame or splice any wires

Thanks,
bfno

[aaric]

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowt ... P4612037-2

I'd say superdave's suggestions are probably best: Stick a 5 port A junction in the area behind the fork steerer where you show two JC-41s, and buy a second A junction to charge - and connect it through the rear derauilleur cable.

[Pokerface07]

I have a Shiv with Di2. But I drilled the frame to stuff the junction boxes inside. One hole in the BB shell (underneath - in front of brake) and another hole in the top tube - where the fork steerer comes out. I also use the seatpost battery.

Assuming you don't want to drill your frame - you can still do it all with loads of cables and junction boxes.

One thing I can help you out with though - is that you don't actually need the 5-port junction box in your system to charge up the battery. I keep a spare 3-port junction box and a 300mm wire - and plug this into the rear mech port when I need to charge the battery (i just unplug the cable running into the rear mech, plug this into the 3-port, then run the spare cable back into the rear mech). You can then charge the battery through the junction box.

My set-up actually uses 4 B-junction boxes, and 1 A-junction (external).

If you have questions, post them up and I'll try and answer.

[Pokerface07]

Should also mention that even if you don't drill the frame, you still have to do a small bit of drilling to remove the internal cables guides. But it's very easy.

Your diagram looks OK, but wondering how you plan to get those junction boxes inside the frame and hooked up without drilling anything?

[bfno]

Thanks for the ideas.

I like the idea of just plugging a 3 port into the RD to charge, that seems much easier than removing the seat post.

@Pokerface07 do you need the 30cm cable to attach to the RD when charging or could you charge by just unplugging the RD and plugging in the 3 port?

I was thinking I could get the junctions in near the stem by taking the fork out (presuming thats not closed as well!)

Thanks for your help
bfno

[cajer]

Make sure your 5 port will fit into your seat tube. Mine doesn't quite want to fit into my cervelo s5 seat tube. So it's duct taped onto my seatstay unit a 3 port inline arrives for me

[bfno]

Ok I've drawn up the new version, this on would require charging via unplugging the RD and plugging in a EW-90-A to charger

[aaric]

Thanks for the ideas.
do you need the 30cm cable to attach to the RD when charging or could you charge by just unplugging the RD and plugging in the 3 port?

Not to charge, but if you wanted to update or program the RD via a computer, you would need the extra cable.

[SuperDave]

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Shiv_Di2_owners_-junction_box_placement_P4612037-2

I'd say superdave's suggestions are probably best: Stick a 5 port A junction in the area behind the fork steerer where you show two JC-41s, and buy a second A junction to charge - and connect it through the rear derauilleur cable.

This is how I charge the IA here also. The IA 5 port junction fits under the stem behind the brake cover. Just jumping one at the RD allows a quick tool-less charge option. I've also got a 250mm wire stuck in one of the ports so I can run it "inline" also rather than "instead of" the R/D. I keep it in my minivan with a car charging port and the USB adapter so when I'm driving to/from an event I plug my bike in to top of the battery.

I'm working on an invisible e-wired road bike now with a 5 port junction in the BB and battery in the DT.

-SD

[flogger7]

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Shiv_Di2_owners_-junction_box_placement_P4612037-2

I'd say superdave's suggestions are probably best: Stick a 5 port A junction in the area behind the fork steerer where you show two JC-41s, and buy a second A junction to charge - and connect it through the rear derauilleur cable.

This is how I charge the IA here also. The IA 5 port junction fits under the stem behind the brake cover. Just jumping one at the RD allows a quick tool-less charge option. I've also got a 250mm wire stuck in one of the ports so I can run it "inline" also rather than "instead of" the R/D. I keep it in my minivan with a car charging port and the USB adapter so when I'm driving to/from an event I plug my bike in to top of the battery.

I'm working on an invisible e-wired road bike now with a 5 port junction in the BB and battery in the DT.

-SD

I am trying this setup now on my new AR with 9070. As soon as I plug in the second junction A, the charge light goes out on the charger. I can get the charge light to come on with either junction A as long as I only have one or the other plugged in. But with both plugged in, I can't get the charge light to turn on nor can I get the shifters to work...as though the whole system has shut itself down because there are two junction A's plugged in.

I'm running the latest firmware.

Any thoughts?

[SuperDave]

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Shiv_Di2_owners_-junction_box_placement_P4612037-2

I'd say superdave's suggestions are probably best: Stick a 5 port A junction in the area behind the fork steerer where you show two JC-41s, and buy a second A junction to charge - and connect it through the rear derauilleur cable.

This is how I charge the IA here also. The IA 5 port junction fits under the stem behind the brake cover. Just jumping one at the RD allows a quick tool-less charge option. I've also got a 250mm wire stuck in one of the ports so I can run it "inline" also rather than "instead of" the R/D. I keep it in my minivan with a car charging port and the USB adapter so when I'm driving to/from an event I plug my bike in to top of the battery.

I'm working on an invisible e-wired road bike now with a 5 port junction in the BB and battery in the DT.

-SD

I am trying this setup now on my new AR with 9070. As soon as I plug in the second junction A, the charge light goes out on the charger. I can get the charge light to come on with either junction A as long as I only have one or the other plugged in. But with both plugged in, I can't get the charge light to turn on nor can I get the shifters to work...as though the whole system has shut itself down because there are two junction A's plugged in.

I'm running the latest firmware.

Any thoughts?

This happened to Ryf's bike in Kona, also. I'm not sure how to create a "dummy" Junction A so the system doesn't get confused. I have no problems doing this on another bike with the same steps.
-SD

[flogger7]

So I decided to get my soldering on and went with the following:

Took my extra BTR2 and cut off the end; took an extra e-tube wire and cut off one of its ends. Soldered the two together; inner on BTR2 to red; shield/outer on BTR2 to black. Some heat shrink tube to keep it clean, an extra b junction, and drop it into the system in front of the rear derailleur when needed.

Charges as it should; e-tube software works as it should; just like being plugged in to the special port on the a-junction.

Combined with the d-fly transmitter (primarily to show me battery level), it and the A junction are now inside the frame behind the steerer; and with the new di2/garmin updates the buttons on top of the 9070 shifters flip the pages on my 510, start/stop timer, and bring up the map view.

Once i finish recabling my brakes with jagwire link, eliminating the gigunda shimano quick release, and no more visible junction A or strap, I will post the pictures. Combined with a tririg omega it should be a super clean front end.

[goodboyr]

How do you put it into adjustment mode with the a junction buried?

[WheresWaldo]

The Garmin can put it in adjustment mode.

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[flogger7]

Are you sure? My understanding was that it can only receive. I use the etube software to enter adjustment mode at the moment when my btr is connected in to the system.


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