Pixs of relocated 6870 Di2 A junct to top of TMR01 seatpost

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

Moderator: robbosmans

Gearhead65
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:24 am
Location: Evansville, IN, USA

by Gearhead65

nigel379 wrote:Quick question, did you just drill through the foam to get the wire to the top of the post? I was looking at my friend's di2 tmr and bmc uses a foam to keep the battery in the seatpost. Thanks


Yes, I drilled through the thick carbon area at the front-top of the post, then used a long bit to drill through the foam, actually up from the bottom. It took some 'reaming' with a threaded rod to clean things up a bit to allow the wire to pass. So there is the large hole in the center of the foam for the battery, then just in front of that is my small hole where I ran the wire up through.
2015 Specialized Crux Pro
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Gearhead65
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:24 am
Location: Evansville, IN, USA

by Gearhead65

Another thought that I would like to try out is to eliminate the B junction inside the bars entirely. Since it seems like it doesn't matter where/how components are hooked into the system.

Use something like a 1400mm eTube from the BB B junction all the way up to the left shifter. Then use another eTube from the left shifter to the right shifter. Wasn't the easiest thing getting that B junction inside the bars so this method would eliminate that issue (and also be a great solution for folks that don't have bars with internal routing.)
2015 Specialized Crux Pro
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build

wheelking
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:04 am

by wheelking

hi to all
i have a BMC TMR01 Dura Ace Di2, Zipp 808 et cintre Zipp Vuka Sprint aero Bars
i have been wondering for some time how to hide the di2 box
before i read this article i was thinking of hidden in the frame and using the other housing entrance hole for charging
but the under the seat option sounds good too

has anyone but the box in the hole underneath the BB where the rear brake housing comes out ?

this would be a 100% hidden option, and just pull it out for charging and pop back in

i would prefer on e-wire entering the frame from the bars, do the extra simple junction box hidden in the bars really work ? has someone really tryed

i have zipp vuka aero bars, i think i could hide the box inside the bars, then have just one e-wire entering the frame to the charging box
would the di2 work?

Cervelolite
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:30 am

by Cervelolite

nice work

wheelking
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:04 am

by wheelking

hi everybody, well its raining and im ill, i think nice time to attack the change to my BMC TMR01

after reading again, i just try gearhead idea of connecting the 2 levers with one e-wire then one to the A box

IT WORKS :) (i had a B inbetween the 2 levers connection cos my cables was short)

no need for a B box in the bars :) i connect in the middle port of the levers

i will need a B somewhere inside the frame, either i think do like gearhead or try hiding the A box in the frameset

1/ glued inside the frame at the opposite entrance to the rear brake cable
2/ inside the bottom of the frame near rear brake, hidden in the hole must make B box smaller
3/ top of seatpost

any other options?

anyone know the standard lengths of the al the ewires supplied with the group ? i prefer to know before i unbuild

keep you informed

amb001
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:45 pm
Location: Essex,UK

by amb001

AndreLM wrote:I was just thinking here... does anyone know if Junction A is required in a Di2 setup?


I had a similar thought for the TMR01 I am currently building. I was thinking of connecting a Junction A at the rear derailleur for charging when needed. I have tested without Junction A and the system does not work without one.

I may still conceal one inside the seat tube for the need of one and connect a spare externally at the rear derailleur when a charge is needed. I will have a d-fly in the Di2 loop to tell me the battery level.

wheelking
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:04 am

by wheelking

im actually undbuilding now, im going to try to hide in the frame, using the opposing hole near headtube to stick the A box, with either the gear setting button at the hole or the charging button.
this way i not even need a second B box.
its the cleanest option but need choose between charging hole or gear setting

gear setting maybe better option, charging can be made by take out the fork for the charging time, with is simple

amb001
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:45 pm
Location: Essex,UK

by amb001

Putting the Junction A there was my first thought but i found I couldn't position the box correctly to access the charge port without it breaching into the space the forks need.

Perhaps I gave up too soon on trying different angles so let us know how you get on.

wheelking
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:04 am

by wheelking

well i tryed the junction A in the frame near the second cable entry. dosent fit, too big when the ewire are plugged in

so i go to my second option which is hidden in the seat tube, i will just pull it out for charging when needed
i plug the normal battery wire into the B box the connected the batterry with a 300mm ewire into the B box too
because i was missing a really long 1450mm with i think would go to the bottom bracket A box from the bar, i had to connect up with another B box which is hidden in the inside of the toptube, wrap up in old cork bar tape for vibrations

no i have just 2 cables which can be seen, front brake and rear brake/ewire which i joined up with heat shrinken wrap

its look really much cleaner now then 5 cables

gearhead idea on seatpost is good if you change often wheel with different cassette or brands
i have 2 pair of same in 11 speed so i not need set up each time gears

thanks

Ltoddokc
Posts: 136
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:37 pm

by Ltoddokc

Wheelking, what handlebars are you using? Will any bars with internal routing work? The ones I can see decent closeups of online look like they would force the cable out of the bar near the stem. Am I correct that you have the cable running internally from one shifter to the other?

brownish
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 5:47 am

by brownish

wheelking wrote:hi everybody, well its raining and im ill, i think nice time to attack the change to my BMC TMR01

after reading again, i just try gearhead idea of connecting the 2 levers with one e-wire then one to the A box

IT WORKS :) (i had a B inbetween the 2 levers connection cos my cables was short)

no need for a B box in the bars :) i connect in the middle port of the levers

i will need a B somewhere inside the frame, either i think do like gearhead or try hiding the A box in the frameset

1/ glued inside the frame at the opposite entrance to the rear brake cable
2/ inside the bottom of the frame near rear brake, hidden in the hole must make B box smaller
3/ top of seatpost

any other options?

anyone know the standard lengths of the al the ewires supplied with the group ? i prefer to know before i unbuild

keep you informed


Want to make sure I understand this correctly before moving forward:

You can connect an e-tube wire between the levers then a second e-tube wire coming off one of the levers, out of the handlebar and into the frame where it connects to the A junction box. Then proceed connecting the rest of the system as normal.

amb001
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:45 pm
Location: Essex,UK

by amb001

Yes this is the setup I've used on 4 of my bikes including my TMR01:-

Right Shifter -> left shifter -> Dfly unit (located in top tube) -> Junction A -> Junction B -> BTR2 battery

Also going into the junction A are the front derailleur and rear derailleur etube connectors

Both the junction B and BTR2 battery are located in the seat tube/seat post

Ltoddokc
Posts: 136
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:37 pm

by Ltoddokc

amb001, what handlebars are you using that allow internal cables across the entire width of the bar?

amb001
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:45 pm
Location: Essex,UK

by amb001

I'm using haero carbon h145 bars but they don't have internal routing.

I decided it was still tidier looking to run the single cable between the shifters and hide the junction B in the frame.. It just makes for a cleaner looking cockpit in my opinion. I use black heatshrink to join the rear brake cable and di2 cable from the left shifter on the run to the frame.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



User avatar
53x12
Posts: 3708
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:02 am
Location: On the bike

by 53x12

amb001 wrote:Yes this is the setup I've used on 4 of my bikes including my TMR01:-

Right Shifter -> left shifter -> Dfly unit (located in top tube) -> Junction A -> Junction B -> BTR2 battery

Also going into the junction A are the front derailleur and rear derailleur etube connectors

Both the junction B and BTR2 battery are located in the seat tube/seat post


Being in the seat post isn't it a pain to do derailleur adjustments while riding, check battery status and then have to dig it up to do firmware updates and charge the battery. The last two wouldn't be that big of a deal. But the first two?
"Marginal gains are the only gains when all that's left to gain is in the margins."

Post Reply