Rotor 3D+ installation problem
Moderator: robbosmans
Recieved my P2M with a Rotor 3d+ crank last week. I just installed the crank on my bike (BSA 68mm) with a BSA30 bottom bracket. However, there is just too much lateral play to fix it with the preload bolt. The manual says I don't need spacers but how else can I fix this problem..?
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Frankie13 wrote:I'm using the same set up on my Canyon with standard BSA bb and rotor cups and didn't have to use any spacers.
Is your bike 68mm? If so, it's very strange why it won't work here..
I turn the preload bolt against the crank arm.
I mount the non-drive side crank in to the frame and push it all the way in
I place the crank on the spindle, while pushing non drive side against the frame I mount the crank with the torque of 40nM
And then the lateral play is too much for the preload bolt to fix it..
Result after pushing the non drive side in the frame, it seems like the spindle is a bit too long??
Result after fixing the crank at 40nM
I am also interested in seeing the resolution to this issue. I want to purchase a P2M Rotor 3D+ for my 2010 (BSA) cervelo R3 instead of the Rotor 3D just in case I upgrade the frame to BBright down the road. I'm told the crank widths are the same between Rotor 3D+ and 3D. So I wonder why you are having this issue. Q-factor should be the same.
I'm running a Colnago C59 with a BSA68 BB and the same P2M. Also using the Rotor BB86/BB30 cups. I don't have this problem and don't run spacers either. The pre-load collar seems to have plenty of ability to take up the slack (though don't wind it fully out or fully in, it can get stuck)
If it were me I would remove the bearings and measure the BB width to make sure its not that first.
I have two Pinarello Dogmas, one 60.1 one 65.1 both running P2M with Rotor 3D+ and I am running no shims.
I have two Pinarello Dogmas, one 60.1 one 65.1 both running P2M with Rotor 3D+ and I am running no shims.
"It's all about the Tempo"
That is bizarre. I use the BSA30 on three different bikes (Roberts steel, Hongfu FM89 and Cervelo P3), mixed and matched with 2 different P2M with 3D+ cranks (different ring sizes). They all work beautifully.
A shim between the cups and the frame will fix your problem, but it definitely shouldn't be like that.
I'd measure the spindle distance from the shoulder of the splines to the preload thread and check with Rotor that it's in spec.
A shim between the cups and the frame will fix your problem, but it definitely shouldn't be like that.
I'd measure the spindle distance from the shoulder of the splines to the preload thread and check with Rotor that it's in spec.
kx_1 wrote:Use the white 0.5mm spacers that came with your crank, one each side and it will solve your problem. The final adjustments will be done from the adjusting nut.
This^^^
And for another data point, you can measure the chain line to see if all spacing should be on either side making up the gap.
Its clear for whatever reason, if you have the NDS crank arm fully seated, the tolerance stack up creates the clearance you show.
This is easily resolved with some generic narrow 30mm ID spacers which are readily available.
Curious to see what came of this?
I am having a similar problem. 68mm BSA BB with Rotor BSA30 cups and Rotor 3D+ crankset. My issue is there is not enough spindle on the drive-side, so the DS crank bolt doesn't reach. I have no spacers and even tested removing the preload nut (without that it does have more spindle revealed). I haven't heard back from Rotor, but was wondering if there is something incorrect with the mounting of the chainrings to DS crank arm, which is pushing the chainrings out too far to reach the bolt hole in the spindle. I used the special tool and lock ring for the P2M powermeter/spider, but are there different lock rings for the different BB installations? I took this setup of my other road frame with a PF30 BB. Thanks.
I am having a similar problem. 68mm BSA BB with Rotor BSA30 cups and Rotor 3D+ crankset. My issue is there is not enough spindle on the drive-side, so the DS crank bolt doesn't reach. I have no spacers and even tested removing the preload nut (without that it does have more spindle revealed). I haven't heard back from Rotor, but was wondering if there is something incorrect with the mounting of the chainrings to DS crank arm, which is pushing the chainrings out too far to reach the bolt hole in the spindle. I used the special tool and lock ring for the P2M powermeter/spider, but are there different lock rings for the different BB installations? I took this setup of my other road frame with a PF30 BB. Thanks.
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Rob,
Your issue is really quite different. Previous issue was tolerance was such that only a thin generic 30mm spacer was needed to take up lateral clearance. You have a no build.
Short of getting a response from Rotor, you will need pictures to reveal what is going on. It should work.
You can measure your BB shell width which I presume is 68mm. The 3D+ spindle is long enough because it is designed for wider shell BB including 30mm BSA with outboard cups which is about the same spacing as wider shell PF applications.
Do you have the 30mm BB30 bearings pressed all the way into the BSA30 cups? or did bearings come integrated into the cups?
Don't see how the chanrings you mention are even in the equation...chainrings don't affect spindle spacing...but of course can affect chainline.
So, pictures would tell a better story if you don't get a response from Rotor. With these types of issues, the response you get is always proportional to how much information you provide and pictures help a lot.
Your issue is really quite different. Previous issue was tolerance was such that only a thin generic 30mm spacer was needed to take up lateral clearance. You have a no build.
Short of getting a response from Rotor, you will need pictures to reveal what is going on. It should work.
You can measure your BB shell width which I presume is 68mm. The 3D+ spindle is long enough because it is designed for wider shell BB including 30mm BSA with outboard cups which is about the same spacing as wider shell PF applications.
Do you have the 30mm BB30 bearings pressed all the way into the BSA30 cups? or did bearings come integrated into the cups?
Don't see how the chanrings you mention are even in the equation...chainrings don't affect spindle spacing...but of course can affect chainline.
So, pictures would tell a better story if you don't get a response from Rotor. With these types of issues, the response you get is always proportional to how much information you provide and pictures help a lot.
RobJ wrote:Curious to see what came of this?
I am having a similar problem. 68mm BSA BB with Rotor BSA30 cups and Rotor 3D+ crankset. My issue is there is not enough spindle on the drive-side, so the DS crank bolt doesn't reach. I have no spacers and even tested removing the preload nut (without that it does have more spindle revealed). I haven't heard back from Rotor, but was wondering if there is something incorrect with the mounting of the chainrings to DS crank arm, which is pushing the chainrings out too far to reach the bolt hole in the spindle. I used the special tool and lock ring for the P2M powermeter/spider, but are there different lock rings for the different BB installations? I took this setup of my other road frame with a PF30 BB. Thanks.
Several shops online were selling 3D+ cranksets with BBright spider lockrings which seems like your issue. BBright cranks would normally use a spacer on the drive side so some cranks had the spacer built into the lockring instead. The normal lockrings are flat.
Contact Rotor and they'll sell you the proper lockring for something like $20 after shipping if I recall correctly (might want to send them a picture of the correct lockring as they sent me a pre-load adjuster by mistake).
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Thanks for the info. After getting some sleep, I realized the same thing and remembered that the lockring was from Power2Max for use with the powermeter with Rotor cranks. Same issue though that it was intended for my Cervelo and I need the BSA one now. That should fix the problem.
kya wrote:
Several shops online were selling 3D+ cranksets with BBright spider lockrings which seems like your issue. BBright cranks would normally use a spacer on the drive side so some cranks had the spacer built into the lockring instead. The normal lockrings are flat.
Contact Rotor and they'll sell you the proper lockring for something like $20 after shipping if I recall correctly (might want to send them a picture of the correct lockring as they sent me a pre-load adjuster by mistake).
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