KCNC ti skewers
Moderator: robbosmans
Looking for some input here.
I bought a set of these and in use the Rear one allows the wheel to shift a bit.
Frame is a Trek OCLV with aluminum drop outs and with the cam tight and set
for good tension, the front of the wheel shifts over to the Right hand side.
Anyone experience similar problem?
Anyone come up with a fix? Thanks.
I bought a set of these and in use the Rear one allows the wheel to shift a bit.
Frame is a Trek OCLV with aluminum drop outs and with the cam tight and set
for good tension, the front of the wheel shifts over to the Right hand side.
Anyone experience similar problem?
Anyone come up with a fix? Thanks.
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They work for me. But I have to crank them down pretty hard. The lever could be a bit longer.
WMW I am the same. I have two sets of WW skewers on my bikes. A set of KCNC that have never loosened on two frames - S works Tarmac SL1 and S works Tarmac SL3, and 4 different wheelsets - Ksyrium SL, Cosmic Carbone SLR, C24 and Roval CLX40. They have done about 20,000k's. I think if the wheel is not sitting in the frame straight with these skewers then your frame is probably bent.
I also have a set of even more weight weenied extralite streeters (29g) - never loosened, never creaked - paired with evo and meilensteins.
I do not understand the lightweight skewer hate, I think people are taking out lousy frame/component tolerances on their skewers.
I also have a set of even more weight weenied extralite streeters (29g) - never loosened, never creaked - paired with evo and meilensteins.
I do not understand the lightweight skewer hate, I think people are taking out lousy frame/component tolerances on their skewers.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
My extralite skewers have done 8,000k's BTW.
Evo 4.9kg SL3 6.64kg Slice RS 8.89kg viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
As eric mentioned the handles are a little shorter than on most other skewers. This can give some users the impression that they are tighter than they actually are, but once you get used to the proper closing tension we rarely ever see a problem with them. Though for some people who prefer a more traditional feel they may not be the right choice.
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The KCNC skewers creak a fair bit on me but aside from that, they're great.
For those of you having issues, post close-up pics as how they are closed in +/- 90 degrees angle.
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I think it's the shape of the "ball" or cam that creates that.
I have two sets of KCNC skewers that I alternate with other ones, I have to check when I tighten the wheels to make shure they are tight when the lever is pressed all the way in, not at 90°.
Louis
I have two sets of KCNC skewers that I alternate with other ones, I have to check when I tighten the wheels to make shure they are tight when the lever is pressed all the way in, not at 90°.
Louis
Most if not all skewers are tightest at about 90 degrees then loosen the tension bit as the lever is pushed farther in. That's to keep the lever from accidentally opening on its own.
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Thank all for the input whether good or bad.
While I was writing the thread an idea came to mind...
so I took out the rear wheel and measured the dropout
slots. LHS side was .410 and RHS was .423 allowing
a considerable amount of lateral movementat at the front or
back of the wheel. So esentially the quick release was
made to work much harder than it was designed for.
So I machined up a couple thin wall shim tubes to
slide onto the hub endcaps where they mate with the dropouts.
I made them quite tight tolerance. So there was basically no play
left between hub/dropouts. Now the front of the wheel sits just
slightly skewed to the Left of center. But the skewer now doesn't
have to work to fight any lateral forces.
I took the bike out for an 80 Km ride and everything was rock solid.
Absolutely no movem ent. I'll fine tune the shims to allow a bit of drift
to get a perfect center.
While I was writing the thread an idea came to mind...
so I took out the rear wheel and measured the dropout
slots. LHS side was .410 and RHS was .423 allowing
a considerable amount of lateral movementat at the front or
back of the wheel. So esentially the quick release was
made to work much harder than it was designed for.
So I machined up a couple thin wall shim tubes to
slide onto the hub endcaps where they mate with the dropouts.
I made them quite tight tolerance. So there was basically no play
left between hub/dropouts. Now the front of the wheel sits just
slightly skewed to the Left of center. But the skewer now doesn't
have to work to fight any lateral forces.
I took the bike out for an 80 Km ride and everything was rock solid.
Absolutely no movem ent. I'll fine tune the shims to allow a bit of drift
to get a perfect center.
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