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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:29 pm
Posts: 593
Hi all,

I've recently gotten myself a new frame and, trying to fit the crankset to the frame I find that I literally had to hit it with a rubber hammer to get the spindle far enough through to attach the other side. I also notice that the bb doesn't turn smoothly.

Is this normal/OK and will it get better with some use?

Any help would be much appreciated.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Posts: 2500
Location: eh?
Something doesn't sound right. I am running a Red crankset in the same BB86 frame and everything goes together quite nicely. The other thing I have noticed using the SRAM GXP compatible press fit BB, is that it is very smooth and relatively free spinning. I found it superior to the Shimano equivalent. 4 seasons, zero issue and going strong.

Maybe your bb isn't installed perfectly?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:29 pm
Posts: 593
I've just removed the crank, with some effort and, to my eyes anyway, the BB seems to be installed fine. I had it done at a shop so I think I'm the one doing something retarded.

I know installing a Quarq isn't too complicated, I've done it before, but could someone tell me if I'm installing it right.

I've got the drive side crank, then the wavy washer, then the BB end cap then finally on the non drive side the other BB end cap before I put the non drive side crankarm on.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: UK
You state that the BB was fitted by your LBS, was it a new BB or did you supply a previously removed one? The press fit BB is designed to deform as it presses into the frame to hold itself in position and should only really be used one time. If it is removed it should really be disposed of. Other than that, ask the shop to install another BB, there maybe a manufacturing fault with the BB. Worst case, the BB shell is not perfect, so when the BB is pressed in the races are not pressing and deforming in a uniform way, this would cause the race to press un-evenly on the bearing. Hope you get it sorted quickly.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:45 pm
Posts: 9
I've had to tap in (and out) every 2 piece crank I've ever owned. FSA SL-K Mega-Exo, SRAM GXP, SRAM S2200 PF30, and SRAM Red BB30. All of them have worked fine, though I don't have many miles on the SRAM Red BB30. I wouldn't sweat it. Just tap hard enough that the threads for the crank bolt engage, then crank down the bolt to get the crank to seat where it needs to be.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:59 pm
Posts: 72
Hi,

I'm a little late on that one but I have the same crank (Sram Red22 Quarq GXP) and want to put it
on a TMR01 with BB86 bottom bracket.
Does it says "wide axle" on the spindle of your crank ?
The Quarq guys told me that it's for the new disc brakes bike with 135mm rear dropouts, to get a correct chainline.

Thanks !


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Posts: 2500
Location: eh?
So the crank has a longer axle so that the chainrings will be further outboard to deal with the wider rear end on disc bikes?

That means some sort of spacing solution to keep the crank from sitting too close to the BB shell.

Sorry I have no first hand experience with your exact crank so I can't comment on the info from Quark but everything should work as normal but a bit wider on a disc bike. But your bike is not disc?

Ah, the simplicity of modern bike gear now that discs are becoming common. (heavy sarcasm).

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swinter wrote:
Mr.Gib got it right


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