Time skylon
Moderator: robbosmans
- wheelbuilder
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:10 am
Nice color! Start a build thread for sure!
Never cheer before you know who is winning
Hi, I started building up my scylon recently. some parts like; crank, stem and some more have not arrived yet.
I've shortened the seatpost and mounted some parts, like brakes, front/rear derailleur. it's all Sram red e-tap.
I noticed that there are no stop sleeves at the frame for the rear brake cable installed
Those of you who did a buildup yourself, did you just pulled the whole brake cablehousing through the frame,
or just the brake cable itself and fitted some kind of stoppers? With other manufacturers is always only the cable and not the cablehousing pulled through the frame.
Would be nice do get some input
regards Daniel
here are a few pics.
I've shortened the seatpost and mounted some parts, like brakes, front/rear derailleur. it's all Sram red e-tap.
I noticed that there are no stop sleeves at the frame for the rear brake cable installed
Those of you who did a buildup yourself, did you just pulled the whole brake cablehousing through the frame,
or just the brake cable itself and fitted some kind of stoppers? With other manufacturers is always only the cable and not the cablehousing pulled through the frame.
Would be nice do get some input
regards Daniel
here are a few pics.
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There is a continuous guide through the top tube. No stops. You just run an entire length of cable housing from lever to the brake. You should have received two 4mm O-rings with your frame. Use this on your brake housing where it enters and exits the top tube. They will, hopefully, prevent movement of the housing back and forth. I’ve done that before on some frames with continuous housing runs but actually applied the O-rings with a little drop of superglue to keep them from sliding along the housing afterwards.Magnav65 wrote: Those of you who did a buildup yourself, did you just pulled the whole brake cablehousing through the frame,
or just the brake cable itself and fitted some kind of stoppers? With other manufacturers is always only the cable and not the cablehousing pulled through the frame.
Would be nice do get some input
regards Daniel
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Hello Calnago,Calnago wrote:There is a continuous guide through the top tube. No stops. You just run an entire length of cable housing from lever to the brake. You should have received two 4mm O-rings with your frame. Use this on your brake housing where it enters and exits the top tube. They will, hopefully, prevent movement of the housing back and forth. I’ve done that before on some frames with continuous housing runs but actually applied the O-rings with a little drop of superglue to keep them from sliding along the housing afterwards.Magnav65 wrote: Those of you who did a buildup yourself, did you just pulled the whole brake cablehousing through the frame,
or just the brake cable itself and fitted some kind of stoppers? With other manufacturers is always only the cable and not the cablehousing pulled through the frame.
Would be nice do get some input
regards Daniel
thank you for your answer. I thought that it just need's the cablehousing for the whole length ... poahh
I just wanted to be sure. I had thought so with the o-rings, but wasn't sure as well; thanks for the tip with the super glue.
I’d try it without the superglue to start. The fit in the entry/exit points on the Skylon is pretty snug so maybe just the pressure from the o-rings themselves will be enough to prevent movement.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Question for those with Campy EPS V3 builds: Were you able to fit the rear derailleur grommet (3.1mm) properly into the chainstay. No way in hell I can get it squeezed in there and have given up. Going to resort to making my own grommet from Sugru unless I’m missing something. If you’ve managed to do it... got a closeup pic to prove it’s even possible? Thanks.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
@Magnav65: I feel your pain. Are those carbon rails (not round), or alloy round rails on the saddle? Either way... that clamp has got to be one of the worst in history. I'm using the ears for the non round carbon rails on a Selle Italia saddle, and I made a note of 8Nm, but that hasn't been tested fully yet... may have to go higher. The fit is so bad that there is daylight to be seen all over the place if you were to look at it from behind between the clamp interface and the rails. Are you finding the same thing? Owner wants me to use the ears for the round rails but I won't do it because the edges would be just gouging into the rails creating bad stress risers. So, the solution is just to clamp down with as much torque as needed until it stops moving around. The other aspect is trying to get the thing perfectly in the position you want it while also tightening the clamp... good luck with that. Not impressed.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
hello had no access to the website for a few days.Calnago wrote: @Magnav65: I feel your pain. Are those carbon rails (not round), or alloy round rails on the saddle? Either way... that clamp has got to be one of the worst in history. I'm using the ears for the non round carbon rails on a Selle Italia saddle, and I made a note of 8Nm, but that hasn't been tested fully yet... may have to go higher. The fit is so bad that there is daylight to be seen all over the place if you were to look at it from behind between the clamp interface and the rails. Are you finding the same thing? Owner wants me to use the ears for the round rails but I won't do it because the edges would be just gouging into the rails creating bad stress risers. So, the solution is just to clamp down with as much torque as needed until it stops moving around. The other aspect is trying to get the thing perfectly in the position you want it while also tightening the clamp... good luck with that. Not impressed.
yes in the picture are round steel braces.
the final saddle has carbon braces there fore i will use the special braces for carbon. yes i think up to 8Nm makes sense. I can remember that with my wilier cento1 been about 6-8Nm. And the kind of radial clamping seem to be itentical .
I agree and it's not just the Skylon. I have a 2015 Time NXS and it's a brilliant bike, but the seat clamp system is garbage. I had a Prologo seat with carbon rails torqued down pretty hard, damn thing moved and damaged the rails. Went with a Fizik Arione with braided carbon rails and all is fine now. Braided rails IMO are a must with Time's crappy clamping setup.
After I received the missing parts I could now finish the build-up of my new time Scylon aktiv.
I installed the following components:
Frameset time scylon xs 1666gr
Handlebar time ergo Drive 225gr
Stem Ritchey 140gr
Rear derailleur e-tap 244gr
Derailleur e-tap 164gr
Shifter e-tap 266gr
Brakes sram red aerolink 260gr
Chain sram red 230gr
Cassette sram red 164gr
Crank campa super record 624gr
Bottom bracket campagnolo 52gr
Wheels 60mm deep 1490gr
Tires vittoria elite 560gr
Saddle bontrager montrose 165gr
Seatpost time 100gr
The complete bike without pedals comes in with 6700gr
I was only able to do a short test drive, but I can say that it's doing very well .
Feels very stiff, out of the saddle I had the feeling that even in the steering head area there is not a lot of moving; like one very solid peace.
Especially in fast descents, curves it feels very stable; not nervous.
The ride comfort is fine for me too.
as I own an oltre xr2 and look695 the Scylon I would certainly put on the same level and classify in some areas as eaven better .
I am very happy with the performance as far as I can tell for the moment and of course; it's not one under thousends it stands out
few pic. of the finished bike:
I installed the following components:
Frameset time scylon xs 1666gr
Handlebar time ergo Drive 225gr
Stem Ritchey 140gr
Rear derailleur e-tap 244gr
Derailleur e-tap 164gr
Shifter e-tap 266gr
Brakes sram red aerolink 260gr
Chain sram red 230gr
Cassette sram red 164gr
Crank campa super record 624gr
Bottom bracket campagnolo 52gr
Wheels 60mm deep 1490gr
Tires vittoria elite 560gr
Saddle bontrager montrose 165gr
Seatpost time 100gr
The complete bike without pedals comes in with 6700gr
I was only able to do a short test drive, but I can say that it's doing very well .
Feels very stiff, out of the saddle I had the feeling that even in the steering head area there is not a lot of moving; like one very solid peace.
Especially in fast descents, curves it feels very stable; not nervous.
The ride comfort is fine for me too.
as I own an oltre xr2 and look695 the Scylon I would certainly put on the same level and classify in some areas as eaven better .
I am very happy with the performance as far as I can tell for the moment and of course; it's not one under thousends it stands out
few pic. of the finished bike:
I would prefer a Sram crankset and a Time stem. Other than that... it looks nice! Nice weight too.
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
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