Tune MAG 170 Flange Broken
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My tune 70-170 have been fine for the past year. Maybe 1200 miles on them at most though. I ride them on Saturday's/race days only. Otherwise, my clinchers I use.
Have them on 56mm chinese tubular wide/aero with CXRays strung up fairly tight.
I remember somebody posted how to service the rear hub of these? Anybody know that link? Can't find it in a search.
Thanks
Have them on 56mm chinese tubular wide/aero with CXRays strung up fairly tight.
I remember somebody posted how to service the rear hub of these? Anybody know that link? Can't find it in a search.
Thanks
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From Experience most of these Tune Mag 170 sounds are either lack of lube/contamination problems in the freehub/hub area and/or lack of enough spacers.
Most of these can be easily confuse with spoke crossing or nipple/rim sounds....but check the area I mentioned above and most of the time this will fix the issue.
As Madcow said....The Mag 170 is a great hub but you do have to do a bit more maintenance.
Most of these can be easily confuse with spoke crossing or nipple/rim sounds....but check the area I mentioned above and most of the time this will fix the issue.
As Madcow said....The Mag 170 is a great hub but you do have to do a bit more maintenance.
Im no expert but i have built a few...okay, six, wheels including one set of carbon tubs with a Tune Mag 170 on the rear and an alchemy Elf on the front. I got the Mag 170 in September 2013 and have about 15000km on it. those Kms have been about 60% in the wet (west coast of norway where it rains all the freakin time!) and I've found it to be pretty reliable so far...no broken flanges yet at least. It did develop a creak after i swapped back ann forth between campy and Shimano free hubs several times. I only heard the creak while peddling out of the saddle or in high torque situations (low cadence, big watts). I thought i'd worn the freehub end cap too loose by removing it too many times but then realised it was only the Shimano free hub that was creaking. I should add that i haven't used the Shimano specific end cap that came with the Shimano freehub as when i measured it i wasn't sure it was going to be long enough. although its possible I've measured something incorrectly but i found the campy end cap 'close enough' and was swapping between campy and shimano cassettes often enough that i thought it easier to jsut use the same end cap.
Anyway, I received some 0.1, 0.15 and 0.2mm spacers/washers from Tune via Starbike to remedy the problem. Once i got the right number/combo of spacers the creaking stopped and i don't have any significant drag when the when is clamped in the frame. Even rode up The Valley of the Tears on Gran Canaria, which is brutally steep in places with ramps up to 23% and didn't hear a peep.
Something else regarding the broken flanges - Could these failures be related to spoke tensions in excess of the 1000N that Tune state is the limit for all their hubs?
I'd definitely consider buying one again.
Anyway, I received some 0.1, 0.15 and 0.2mm spacers/washers from Tune via Starbike to remedy the problem. Once i got the right number/combo of spacers the creaking stopped and i don't have any significant drag when the when is clamped in the frame. Even rode up The Valley of the Tears on Gran Canaria, which is brutally steep in places with ramps up to 23% and didn't hear a peep.
Something else regarding the broken flanges - Could these failures be related to spoke tensions in excess of the 1000N that Tune state is the limit for all their hubs?
I'd definitely consider buying one again.
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mr4fox.....the end caps are specific for Campy and Shimano....you may be able to correct some of the play with shims but better to have the correct end cap. The difference is about 2-3 mm on each side. BTW....if you swap freehubs with the correct end caps you have to re-dish the wheel...it will be off-center.
Thanks for the input jmartpr. i realised the end caps were specific to the free hub bodies. but when i measured the internal depth of the shimano one it seemed way to short. seemed like it would need even more spacers. But i haven't as yet actually tried fitting it, only because i was swapping back and forth fairly frequently and have it working just fine with the camoy endcap. Maybe i shoud try fitting it now and see if it does indeed fit.
i did redish the wheel to suit shimano as thats what i was doing most of my kms on before winter. but it wasnt a big difference there either iirc. isn't 1 or 2 mm of offset dish acceptable anyway? ill recheck the dish at the same time
i did redish the wheel to suit shimano as thats what i was doing most of my kms on before winter. but it wasnt a big difference there either iirc. isn't 1 or 2 mm of offset dish acceptable anyway? ill recheck the dish at the same time
Talking about thread revival. Perhaps it is not the hub creaking. It could be the cassette? If you are running a Shimano Dura Ace cassette, maybe this is a good reading. http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/06/06/shi ... -creaking/
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Mine doesn't creak. I run a Red cassette 1170 though. Anyway, I have slight wiggle/slack when moving the rim and holding it tight, just at ouch, maybe 1mm or so I would guess play.
Doesn't seem to affect anything. I think if I try to put a thin spacer in, might cause drag now. Guess I would have to try, still using the factory setup after wheel was built/sent to me.
Need to follow the directions above and pull the cassette/hub flange off and inspect the bearings/great/lube situation...seems to be working fine with no maintenance so far, like I said, maybe 1000+ miles on them.
Doesn't seem to affect anything. I think if I try to put a thin spacer in, might cause drag now. Guess I would have to try, still using the factory setup after wheel was built/sent to me.
Need to follow the directions above and pull the cassette/hub flange off and inspect the bearings/great/lube situation...seems to be working fine with no maintenance so far, like I said, maybe 1000+ miles on them.
LeviR wrote:Talking about thread revival. Perhaps it is not the hub creaking. It could be the cassette? If you are running a Shimano Dura Ace cassette, maybe this is a good reading. http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/06/06/shi ... -creaking/
In case you did not know, we have an entire thread with users experiencing the broken cassettes. Here's the said thread:
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118879
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Hey
I have a load of experience with this issue with Tune 170s.
The problem is definitely the hub, somewhere. I honestly have not managed to narrow it down to any specific area, and have tried everything; using more and less spacers, or a variety of thicknesses, cleaning and lubing the ratchet and pawls, lubing the dropouts, skewer, etc. Lubing between spokes, etc.
NOTHING has fixed it.
Has anyone actually narrowed this sound down to a particular area for DEFINITE?
I have a load of experience with this issue with Tune 170s.
The problem is definitely the hub, somewhere. I honestly have not managed to narrow it down to any specific area, and have tried everything; using more and less spacers, or a variety of thicknesses, cleaning and lubing the ratchet and pawls, lubing the dropouts, skewer, etc. Lubing between spokes, etc.
NOTHING has fixed it.
Has anyone actually narrowed this sound down to a particular area for DEFINITE?
The issues I had with the creaking has subsided. I don't know why as I didn't do anything particular to try and isolate it after a couple of weeks of creaking. I was going to send it back to FB but since it stopped, I postponed that until I could ride a little more on the hub to see if the creaking would return. It has been about 3 months now and no creaking. It almost seems like something inside may have "broken in" and now it is good (fingers crossed).
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Hey
Thanks for the feedback
I see Tune has finally updated their online manuals with full instructions about correct spacer installation and measuring. Will go through that and see if that does anything.
Nice one mate
Thanks for the feedback
I see Tune has finally updated their online manuals with full instructions about correct spacer installation and measuring. Will go through that and see if that does anything.
Nice one mate
May I join the party?
Mig 70, about 10-12k km, no potholes etc, today on the flat good surface bang.
Hubs were bought from Starbike and built to Tune's spoke tension specification, Sep 12, so out of warranty. Don't know European customer law but in the UK Sale of Goods Act protects us from such situations. Anyway, will have to check how Starbike and Tune are going to deal with it....?
Big thanks to Tamed Earth Bikes from Hindhead for letting me a spare wheel, I could ride back home, 40km. I didn't know them before. I found them walking to the coffee shop after calling family to pick me up. Cool guys!
Mig 70, about 10-12k km, no potholes etc, today on the flat good surface bang.
Hubs were bought from Starbike and built to Tune's spoke tension specification, Sep 12, so out of warranty. Don't know European customer law but in the UK Sale of Goods Act protects us from such situations. Anyway, will have to check how Starbike and Tune are going to deal with it....?
Big thanks to Tamed Earth Bikes from Hindhead for letting me a spare wheel, I could ride back home, 40km. I didn't know them before. I found them walking to the coffee shop after calling family to pick me up. Cool guys!
Last edited by 1415chris on Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Can you post some pictures of the flange, did you notice any other cracks around the hub?
I had a similar issue with a front hub that was handled promptly by FWB.
I had a similar issue with a front hub that was handled promptly by FWB.