Tune MAG 170 Flange Broken

[Razor]

Kermithimself, the Mag 170 (that the DS flange broke on) was purchased about 1 year 6mos ago, pretty close to when you got yours. Coincidence? According to a WW member, he says there was a bad batch of hubs made but untraceable because Tune doesn't use serial numbers. No way to verify that, FWB said they have heard nothing of the sort.

Frankie - B, I am not sure what kind of lube he used, I will have to ask him next time I visit the shop. FWB says it is not the hub but spokes rubbing and dry nipple/spoke interface, apparently a little drop of lube in those spots supposedly stopped the creaking. Time will tell I guess.

TwiggyTN, FWB seems to pretty knowledgeable but do you really think that they know more about what the internals of the hub should contain than Tune themselves?

[TwiggyTN]

I think FWB has more practical experience with hubs out in the field under many different conditions. Plus they don't come with the normal bias a manufacturer does. My opinion is FWB is more about happy customers than Tune is. Just my opinion, I prefer practical knowledge over factory advice.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[Razor]

TwiggyTN, I do agree that FWB seems to really want to fix any issues related to the Mag 170 (as they did with my Mag 180). I guess there are always improvements to these components that can be made, hopefully FWB has made some recommendations to Tune based on their experience with the hub.

[Razor]

UPDATE: To recap, the Mag 170 FWB sold to me that broke, was replaced and the new 170 developed a creak that FWB said was not the hub but the spoke crossings/nipples. Apparently they fixed the creak by dropping oil into those interfaces.

I get the wheel back, ride it for 300mi with no issues. 3 out of the last 5 rides it begins to creak. Initial pedal stroke and there is an audible clunk/click then intermittent creaking. Contacted FWB and told them I am sending the wheel back again.

[spdntrxi]

did you try adding a little oil in the crossings ? although 300mi does seem a little early to start making noise again.. but all depends on weather condition and whatnot.

[Razor]

did you try adding a little oil in the crossings ? although 300mi does seem a little early to start making noise again.. but all depends on weather condition and whatnot.

You could be right, I'll try it tomorrow and see if it helps but I had the wheel for over 1.5yrs before the creaking (at least 10k worth of miles ridden), and now under 500mi and it is creaking after the "fix", something's not right. The front wheel was built by FWB with the Mig 70 and it is almost 3 years old and it does not creak/require oil in the crossings/nipples.

[ergott]

Razor, how much do you weigh and how many spokes are there in the rear wheel? What spokes/rim?

[Razor]

Ergott, I weigh 165lbs and the rear wheel has 28h, the front wheel 24h. The spokes are Sapim CX-Ray with Alu nipples. The rims are the Niobium 30's. The front wheel was built by Troy Watson (and he built the rear wheel when he was working at FWB (that hub broke so this latest wheel was built by another guy at FWB using this current new Mag 170).

[ergott]

Thanks. I just wanted to rule out the possibility of too much flex caused by a rider being to big for the build. That's not the case here.

[ergott]

I don't know their building process, but there should definitely be great or a heavy oil between the nipple and rim. Another thing to try is removing tire and rim strip. Put a drop or two of motor oil on the head of each nipple so you get some lubricant between the nipple and rim. Couldn't hurt.

[Razor]

Ergott, I dropped some oil (the only kind i have is DumondTech) in those spots, will ride it this afternoon to see what happens. If I need to replace it, what would be a suitable hub that would have comparable flange spacing, bearings (smoothness), DT240 or WI T11? Not concerned with weight, just don't want to hear noise coming from my hubs/bike period.

[ergott]

Tune 170 and WI T11 share the same spoke lengths if you want to make a quick swap. If you do, I always recommend replacing the nipples. Furthermore, make sure the threads are lubricated (I prefer anti seize compount) and some grease between the new nipples and rim.

[Razor]

Well, the oil "fix" didn't work, creaked the whole ride today. Was really pronounced when I got on the rollers. Anyway, I think I may go with the T11 and will definitely use new spokes and nipples(maybe even a new rim), FWB will build the wheel so I'll make sure that they make a note to use the proper prep on the nipples. No more (outta)Tune for me, front hub is nice...rear smh.

[kavitator]

Razor did you try oil quick release skewers where they have contact with dropouts?

[Razor]

Yes, actually went way into that (lubed both skewer and dropouts on both inside and outside). Lubed front skewers the same, checked pedals, chainring bolts, the whole thing. I put my other wheel on (BHS hub built by FWB with same spokes, rim, nipples), rode that for 3 weeks and no creaking.