And finally , BORA get fat?
Moderator: robbosmans
Yes., that's one of the best features. Gluing is much easier. Also, the rim well for the tire seam (perhaps the wider width also) has given me that extra millimeter or so of clearance that I was so wanting for my C59 running a 25mm tire.
Spokes are replaced with a little magnet that guides the nipple into place. Very easy. These rims are very strong. No need to remove the tire for a simple truing. Although, I've never had to true a Bora and mine have taken a couple big hits so hard that I was sure the rim would have broken.
Spokes are replaced with a little magnet that guides the nipple into place. Very easy. These rims are very strong. No need to remove the tire for a simple truing. Although, I've never had to true a Bora and mine have taken a couple big hits so hard that I was sure the rim would have broken.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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Yes, the first iteration of the 35's did not have the rim holes but they did not have the seam well down the middle either, if I remember right. But now that they've widened the rim a bit, I think these wheels will be a new benchmark for a long time.
If they widened them much more than this then tire manufacturers would have to also start widening the base tape of their tires for gluing (which may very well happen). Not sure where it stops really, but I am very pleased with the chosen 24.2mm width of the new Boras.
Interestingly, manufacturers of brakes are quite quiet about the obvious elephant in the room, which is that most of the current generation of caliper brakes are really optimized around rims in the 20-21mm width range. They generally work ok on wider rims but on some of the really wide rims you can already run into problems. Shimano, with their most recent models have at least designed around the possibility of wider bigger tires and have excellent clearance. But Campy's current skeleton brakes, when opened up to accommodate a wider rim, can sometimes hit the top of a 25mm tire with the arms, because as the brakes open up, the arms drop down a bit. I expect a redesign soon.
And you can bet that once the next iteration of calipers start appearing in force there will all of a sudden be a lot of marketing speak to the effect of "new and improved! Designed and optimized specifically for today's wider rims choices! Get yours now!" But until they've got new stuff to sell... silence. Unless pressed then you'll get a little mumble "our brakes work fine with wider rims". And quite frankly they do, but as soon as the new improved versions come out which are "optimized" for wide rims well then, not so much. It's quite humorous actually
If they widened them much more than this then tire manufacturers would have to also start widening the base tape of their tires for gluing (which may very well happen). Not sure where it stops really, but I am very pleased with the chosen 24.2mm width of the new Boras.
Interestingly, manufacturers of brakes are quite quiet about the obvious elephant in the room, which is that most of the current generation of caliper brakes are really optimized around rims in the 20-21mm width range. They generally work ok on wider rims but on some of the really wide rims you can already run into problems. Shimano, with their most recent models have at least designed around the possibility of wider bigger tires and have excellent clearance. But Campy's current skeleton brakes, when opened up to accommodate a wider rim, can sometimes hit the top of a 25mm tire with the arms, because as the brakes open up, the arms drop down a bit. I expect a redesign soon.
And you can bet that once the next iteration of calipers start appearing in force there will all of a sudden be a lot of marketing speak to the effect of "new and improved! Designed and optimized specifically for today's wider rims choices! Get yours now!" But until they've got new stuff to sell... silence. Unless pressed then you'll get a little mumble "our brakes work fine with wider rims". And quite frankly they do, but as soon as the new improved versions come out which are "optimized" for wide rims well then, not so much. It's quite humorous actually
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
@phollingswo. Can you measure with calipers the width of the Arenbergs on the 24.2mm rims?
I am trying to decide between the 2014 Bora One 35 with 23mm Veloflex Carbons vs. 2015 Bora One 35 with 25mm Veloflex Arenbergs on my Dogma 65.1.
I am thinking that although running 23mm tubulars on 24.2mm wide rims could be done, it would be less than ideal.
I am trying to decide between the 2014 Bora One 35 with 23mm Veloflex Carbons vs. 2015 Bora One 35 with 25mm Veloflex Arenbergs on my Dogma 65.1.
I am thinking that although running 23mm tubulars on 24.2mm wide rims could be done, it would be less than ideal.
It's all downhill from here, except for the uphills.
hi
OK so now i am worried about the 21 mm tyres. i get a chance to try them tomorrow with a 80 km ride so lucky me.
tyre seems to be very secure on there. but i hear what you are saying @calnago.
just for information, what is a good tyre pressure? i know tyres have ranges, but i weigh 90 odd kilos, what sort of pressures to run? i iend to go with something like 120 psi. too much? or is it simply down to comfort and hence entirely at one's discretion?
i will say that there is around 20 mm of tyre above the rim. and i used quite a bit of glue.
wish me luck.
OK so now i am worried about the 21 mm tyres. i get a chance to try them tomorrow with a 80 km ride so lucky me.
tyre seems to be very secure on there. but i hear what you are saying @calnago.
just for information, what is a good tyre pressure? i know tyres have ranges, but i weigh 90 odd kilos, what sort of pressures to run? i iend to go with something like 120 psi. too much? or is it simply down to comfort and hence entirely at one's discretion?
i will say that there is around 20 mm of tyre above the rim. and i used quite a bit of glue.
wish me luck.
Bobo S&S Steel Bike - 7.5 kg
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Will be interested to hear how it goes. At your weight (similar to me) I'd have to guess you'd want at least 115-120psi in a 21mm tubular. Just go out and enjoy the ride and see how it looks afterwards paying particular attention to see if the base tape has full adhesion or if it's wanting to pull away from the rim (or tire pulling away from the base tape). In any case you'll be wanting to change them out afterwards if for no other reason than they're red . Red?! Really? All black or maybe tan sidewalls with that frame. Kidding of course, sort of. I guess if red's your thing...
Oh, and I don't believe more glue makes for a stronger bond. I found that two thin layers of Mastik One on the rim and one layer on the base tape of the tire (Veloflex in my case) gives a really good result but everyone has their own opinions on this. But what I described is also what Vittoria specifies on their boxes of mastik one (yet gives no directions on individual tubes).
I also ran some 320 grit wet/dry Emory cloth over the rim prior to gluing to remove any polishing/release agents on the new surface as per the manual that comes with the wheels. Then a wipedown with acetone to remove all dust etc from the light sanding. Enjoy! They are fantastic wheels.
Oh, and I don't believe more glue makes for a stronger bond. I found that two thin layers of Mastik One on the rim and one layer on the base tape of the tire (Veloflex in my case) gives a really good result but everyone has their own opinions on this. But what I described is also what Vittoria specifies on their boxes of mastik one (yet gives no directions on individual tubes).
I also ran some 320 grit wet/dry Emory cloth over the rim prior to gluing to remove any polishing/release agents on the new surface as per the manual that comes with the wheels. Then a wipedown with acetone to remove all dust etc from the light sanding. Enjoy! They are fantastic wheels.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
thanks @calnago. i am looking forward to having a go. first big ride on the bike and wheels. should be fun.
i am of course disturbed that someone who has nice looking bikes like you doesn't realise how great the touch of red is but i guess you still have time in your life to redress this flaw.
i posted under wheels re: tyre width and rim width. i didn't quote you directly but did indicate your views (which make sense to me). hope i didn't verbal you. i note campag manual says pretty much what you say "check its adhering at the outer edge" with respect to suitable tyre width.
i too sandpapered but 120 as per instructions. alot came off!
also you are not wrong re: conflicting advice out there about gluing tubulars. i am very new to it and it is a difficult thing to feel good about when there are so many strongly held conflicting views. i did however have to remove the first tubular i glued last night as my rollers appear to have delaminated it after 1,000 km's (crappy challenger tyre). it was an absolute battle to get it off so i think i am in the right ball park.
i am of course disturbed that someone who has nice looking bikes like you doesn't realise how great the touch of red is but i guess you still have time in your life to redress this flaw.
i posted under wheels re: tyre width and rim width. i didn't quote you directly but did indicate your views (which make sense to me). hope i didn't verbal you. i note campag manual says pretty much what you say "check its adhering at the outer edge" with respect to suitable tyre width.
i too sandpapered but 120 as per instructions. alot came off!
also you are not wrong re: conflicting advice out there about gluing tubulars. i am very new to it and it is a difficult thing to feel good about when there are so many strongly held conflicting views. i did however have to remove the first tubular i glued last night as my rollers appear to have delaminated it after 1,000 km's (crappy challenger tyre). it was an absolute battle to get it off so i think i am in the right ball park.
Bobo S&S Steel Bike - 7.5 kg
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Well, I used to use 3 layers on the rim, 2 on the base tape, then thought I'd try the manufacturers directions to the letter for Vittoria Mastik One. After all, it's their product, you'd think they'd know... and I think the bond is better than with more layers. It is contact cement after all... a bunch of thick glue in between just has the potential to turn into a sloppy gluey mess if it gets hot enough, which can't be good.
And yes, I do realize Campag manual says to use 120 grit sandpaper, but that just seemed a bit too aggressive for my liking.
Oh, and a "touch" of something can be what separates a fine build from a fabulous build. But red tires... I'll have to think on that one a bit Would you wear red socks, if it wasn't Christmas? Luckily tires are easily changeable, like socks. And if that's your thing, ride on, red tires and all. Own it!
I have done some hideous things to bikes before aesthetically. But I think I've grown out of it for the most part. Tastes change. Simple designs, thoughtful builds with quality no nonsense reliable components gets my attention these days. And a bike that looks like it fits the owner. Paramount.
And yes, I do realize Campag manual says to use 120 grit sandpaper, but that just seemed a bit too aggressive for my liking.
Oh, and a "touch" of something can be what separates a fine build from a fabulous build. But red tires... I'll have to think on that one a bit Would you wear red socks, if it wasn't Christmas? Luckily tires are easily changeable, like socks. And if that's your thing, ride on, red tires and all. Own it!
I have done some hideous things to bikes before aesthetically. But I think I've grown out of it for the most part. Tastes change. Simple designs, thoughtful builds with quality no nonsense reliable components gets my attention these days. And a bike that looks like it fits the owner. Paramount.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
thanks for posting the mastik instructions. i agree, if that's what they say to do then why argue. interesting that they say leave the last layer on rim to dry for 3-5 mins before on with tyre. that is not what i have been doing at all. oh well live and learn.
i'm looking forward to the green and black pave's. i think that will be cool. but i will take tips from you in the aesthetics department all day long. your EPQ is tremendous.
that said i do wear red socks. all the time.
i am going to report in tomorrow after i have had a long ride on these new wheels.
i'm looking forward to the green and black pave's. i think that will be cool. but i will take tips from you in the aesthetics department all day long. your EPQ is tremendous.
that said i do wear red socks. all the time.
i am going to report in tomorrow after i have had a long ride on these new wheels.
Bobo S&S Steel Bike - 7.5 kg
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
mrgray wrote:...
that said i do wear red socks. all the time.
Well in that case, red they shall be! [emoji1]
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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@mrgray, 90Kg, 21mm tires on 24 mm wheel @ 120 PSI.....no offense, really, but the whole combination is a poor setup. Do yourself a favor and strip those 21mm tires off ur new wheels and mount the Paves u r stockpiling. Seems strange that someone who believes that aging tubulars actually makes a difference (per ur earlier post) will also ride 21mm tubulars....? EM3
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