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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:33 pm
Posts: 167
Hello,
Has anyone easily removed the ENVE logos on a fork?

Styrrell


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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:17 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:44 am 
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in the industry

Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 3:58 am
Posts: 52
Location: USA
Logos are under clear coat so a repaint is needed to have it look nice.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:38 am 
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Yep. I contacted Enve/Edge about the same issue. Mr. Parlee has it right.
(Coincidentally, falling in love with Parlees is what led me to getting a CAAD9.
I just love that classic round tube design. Hope to own one someday. :mrgreen: )

I preferred the Edge 2.0 graphics that matched my BBQ CAAD9's nicely.
I came across an incredible deal for an Edge 1.0 fork, so I ordered it.
I had my girlfriend who is an artist, painstakingly paint "inside" of the block lettering
leaving just the outline of the logo to try to match Cannondale's lettering.
It took her about two hours. I used auto paint. Judge for yourself...

Before:
Image
After:
Image

_____________________________________________________________________


Before:
Image
After:
Image

_____________________________________________________________________


Before:
Image
After:
Image

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The CAAD Build Thread


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:50 am 
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You really should marry that girl.

Styrrell


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:06 am 
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Location: Los Angeles / Glendale, California
Image

Look up decal removal.
SEARCH.
Plenty of threads already exist which will discuss and illustrate the proper techniques for prep, during, and post operation. Dig a little bit, you will find what information you are looking for and probably come away with a little more knowledge about how your carbon bits are composed anyway, which will help you in the future.

Best of luck.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:04 am 
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styrrell wrote:
You really should marry that girl.

Styrrell


I did...last week.

:thumbup:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:16 am 
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Congratulations!

But since this is WWs, we need pics and a weight.

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"Nothing compares to the simple pleasures of a bike ride," said John F. Kennedy, a man who had the pleasure of Marilyn Monroe.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:35 am 
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Ypsylon wrote:
Congratulations!

But since this is WWs, we need pics and a weight.


LOL!
Thanks.
I could post pics, but I'm sure I'd be breaking "some" rules!
Weight? MMMg

:wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:15 pm
Posts: 177
Image

I've stripped both an Edge stem and also seatpost sucessfully using Carbolift. I don't suggest sanding down the logos. Afterwards, I left the carbon raw, but used a carbon wax (found at high-end car body shops) to but a gorgeous satin shine on the carbon. This is similar to what Parlee does on their "waxed" frames.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:33 pm
Posts: 167
prendrefeu wrote:
Image

Look up decal removal.
SEARCH.
Plenty of threads already exist which will discuss and illustrate the proper techniques for prep, during, and post operation. Dig a little bit, you will find what information you are looking for and probably come away with a little more knowledge about how your carbon bits are composed anyway, which will help you in the future.

Best of luck.



I did search but nothing came up for Edge specifically. I was hoping they weren't under a clear and could be easily removed with a solvent. No problem though.

Styrrell


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:59 pm 
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I removed decals that were under cleancoat with another wheelset. I went with a heavier sand paper, and just worked my way down...took me like 4hrs to do both wheels. What a hassle.

Carbon repair/repaint guys use either a sanding technique, or a chemical method that is safe for the carbon/epoxy to get through the clearcoat.

Looking back, wish I had something like carbolift that is safe. Seems like a much easier method to dissolve the clearcoat and get the sticker removed.

Sanding will work too, but a PITA and time consuming.

I just used regular satin finished clearcoat with UV protectant from the hardware store. Put a few coats on. After drying, hit is with 1500 wet, and smooth as a baby's bottom. A few carbon repair guys I talked with said what I did is what they would do and the clear coat was fine I used. It is a home job in many of their eyes. But some carbon repair/repainters will be glad to do it for you for like $350!

Mine came out great, stealth and no carbon damaged in the process.


Here are some after pics:



Image


Image


Image


By the way, they were these wheels. Wanted some inexpensive reasonably light carbon clinchers...but hated the stickers and name for obvious reasons. Descent wheels for the money.

Image


Last edited by Zigmeister on Tue Oct 04, 2011 3:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:53 am 
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Those look good Z! :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:29 pm
Posts: 72
Location: Outaouais
Sorry to bring this old? thread up...

Looking at ENVE seatpost/stem/handlebars and was wondering if the logos are under a clear coat or just applied on top?

Looks like painting to me (that would easily be removed with acetone?) but would like to confirm?

If anyone did it, please indicate the process used and maybe annex a picture?

Cheers!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:30 pm
Posts: 1516
Just for the record:
On both a 3T stem and some TRP Brakes I was able to pretty much just wipe the painted logos right off using the the common industrial solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)
It didn't touch the larger areas of powder-coated epoxy at all.

I don't know what it would do to an clear-coated frame, so exericise caution.


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Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:03 pm 


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