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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 4:57 am
Posts: 28
Ok then put a .75mm spacer behind the campy pedals and adjust your cleats to match. Simples.

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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 9:15 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 6:42 pm
Posts: 23
Thank you for the responses. What prompted this is the opportunity to buy a reconditioned Rotor from SRM. With the cost of a new cranks plus the proceeds from sales from the old stuff, the cost differential is not tremendous. It seems like shifting is a non-issue for the Rotor. There seem to be a fair bit of responses around different forum related to Rotors cracking.

Given the choice between the Rotor, THM M3 (6-8 week wait), or another Campy crank, what would you recommend? The THM and Campy are going to cost around the same. The rotor is a fair bit less expensive.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:55 am 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 416
Every mm of q factor is worth 40W. Get real mate. Look at it on a ruler.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:32 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:22 pm
Posts: 124
Location: UK - Hertfordshire
This thread needs some pics of your set ups too lads!


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