Lighter Cable/Housing for Dura Ace 9070

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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RChevalier
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:27 pm

by RChevalier

Any suggestions on lighter Brake Cables/Housing for the DA9070 Shifters + DA9000 Brakeset?

The provided Shimano cables/housing in the groupset weigh 191g. Just wondering if there are lighter alternatives.

Thanks in Advance to all.

by Weenie


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ITTY
Posts: 222
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:08 pm
Location: Bremerton, WA

by ITTY

Try the search function. There are plenty of great threads on this topic.
Moloko Plus 6.24 kg

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RChevalier
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:27 pm

by RChevalier

I tried... plugged in light brake cables into search and it came up with 217 pages. I thought it would be easier to just ask.

drainyoo
Posts: 736
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:56 pm

by drainyoo

Aican Bungarus. The entire setup weights only 83g. I run them and they're great. Just be careful with the cables that come with it. The ends fray and unwind very easily. Make sure to use a good, sharp cutter.

NiFTY
Posts: 1061
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

I would have to disagree on the bunagrus. On my evo, I twice had a fractured liner segment for my rear brake, which meant the segments were swinging on the cable, and the inner cable would then poke out through the segments as it frayed. I am still using AICAN in non-mobile segments, ie, where turning the bars has no effect - front brake housing and from rear brake frame stop to rear brake. The anodizing on the AICAN is also poor and lasts very little time before it starts to decay.

I would choose a segmented housing where the liner is not a structural component. Like alligator ilink or swift. I think ilink is a much more elegant solution, it is slightly heavier and take slightly longer to setup, but the anodizing is better and it won't eat cables.
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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kman
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Location: Sydney, Australia

by kman

And you can reuse it over and over again by just replacing the liner. Cheap.
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Leviathan
Posts: 1027
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2007 10:49 am
Location: Mallorca, Spain
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by Leviathan

My experience of Bungarus was mixed.
Its not a bad system per se, but an internal installation, with some tight cable runs, SRAM (more susceptible to FD cable tension than others) plus powercords was a step too far. I found the first setup OK, but the minute you had to release tension (I had to sort out something on the BB) you almost always get a compromised liner when you put the tension back on the system

drainyoo
Posts: 736
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:56 pm

by drainyoo

NiFTY wrote:I would have to disagree on the bunagrus. On my evo, I twice had a fractured liner segment for my rear brake, which meant the segments were swinging on the cable, and the inner cable would then poke out through the segments as it frayed. I am still using AICAN in non-mobile segments, ie, where turning the bars has no effect - front brake housing and from rear brake frame stop to rear brake. The anodizing on the AICAN is also poor and lasts very little time before it starts to decay.

I would choose a segmented housing where the liner is not a structural component. Like alligator ilink or swift. I think ilink is a much more elegant solution, it is slightly heavier and take slightly longer to setup, but the anodizing is better and it won't eat cables.


I haven't seen any of these issues with my set. Maybe you received a defective set.

wrcompositi
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:57 am

by wrcompositi

NiFTY wrote:I would have to disagree on the bunagrus. On my evo, I twice had a fractured liner segment for my rear brake, which meant the segments were swinging on the cable, and the inner cable would then poke out through the segments as it frayed. I am still using AICAN in non-mobile segments, ie, where turning the bars has no effect - front brake housing and from rear brake frame stop to rear brake. The anodizing on the AICAN is also poor and lasts very little time before it starts to decay.

I would choose a segmented housing where the liner is not a structural component. Like alligator ilink or swift. I think ilink is a much more elegant solution, it is slightly heavier and take slightly longer to setup, but the anodizing is better and it won't eat cables.


My Aican housing's color has totally faded away, the anodizing is really awful.

Otherwise they function well on my bike, no better or worse than traditional housings. Despite the fact that my handlebar's internal cable ports cause the housing to bend very tightly, the links are still intact.

Image

mnmasotto
Posts: 621
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:16 pm
Location: Irvine, CA

by mnmasotto

I use the Aican Bungarus cable set and had nothing but god luck.

brearley
Posts: 354
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:08 pm
Location: Hull

by brearley

Can anybody tell me the outside diameter of alligator or Nokon cable liners.
Need new liner for my swift cables but shipping to uk makes them cost prohibitive.

LoggingMiles
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 3:46 pm

by LoggingMiles

Was that 191 cut or uncut?

NiFTY
Posts: 1061
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

drainyoo - it has happened to me with 2 different sets - one shift and one brake. Each set of cabling that has failed (Rear brake to frame and FD shifter to frame) has failed twice - ie eaten 4 inner cables.

I'm not saying that my experience will be universal - i know that the high cable tension of my SRAM Yaw FD with put my FD outer at a higher risk than those using FD which run lower cable tension. Likewise the rear brake routing on the evo is terrible and causes sharp bends, but none of this has happened with alligator, which is also finished much more nicely.

I am still using my AICAN for front brake and from frame stop to rear brake where it has been fine. (No movement when turning bars).

I also used an AICAN segment as a spacer in the rear brake stop on the headtube of my evo, so the ferrule for the i-link cabling was supported over its whole base rather than at one single point.
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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RChevalier
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:27 pm

by RChevalier

Don't let this stop the discussion but I just wanted to thank everyone for their input, I have a much better idea now which direction to head.

Although I must admit, my first experience with "bungarus" took me to a place I did not wish to visit... :shock:

aaric
Posts: 439
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:10 pm

by aaric

I went with Ashima Reaction on my latest Di2 build. https://fairwheelbikes.com/ashima-react ... -4193.html

Less fuss than segmented, but still a weight decrease over stock. I couldn't tell a significant difference in brake feel. Perhaps a slight bit rougher pull, but hard to say for sure.

Not as light as segmented, but with an internally cabled frame, I didn't want to have rattles/aluminum wearing holes in the frame. Weight was somewhere between stock 6870 cables and iLinks IIRC.

by Weenie


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