half-shifts after hitting bumps?
Moderator: robbosmans
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So these are ruled out:
1. soft pulley wear
2. cable fray/wear
Left to check
1. RD hanger (though it was good 3 weeks ago with no drops since)
2. Internal cable routing - I suppose LBS that did the original build might have crossed them. This one is NOT easy to check.
1. soft pulley wear
2. cable fray/wear
Left to check
1. RD hanger (though it was good 3 weeks ago with no drops since)
2. Internal cable routing - I suppose LBS that did the original build might have crossed them. This one is NOT easy to check.
Mize wrote:So these are ruled out:
1. soft pulley wear
2. cable fray/wear
Left to check
1. RD hanger (though it was good 3 weeks ago with no drops since)
2. Internal cable routing - I suppose LBS that did the original build might have crossed them. This one is NOT easy to check.
My rd hanger kept bending repeatedly without being dropped. Don't know the cause still but the problem is gone
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To check for crossed cables look to see which side the cable enters the down tube. Then flip the bike up so you can see the bottom cable guide and see which cable moves when you shift. It's really easier than that if you know what to look for but this method will allow you to quickly check and be sure. Crossing cables isn't necessarily a bad thing but it sounds like it may be your issue since it only corrects itself by shifting the front.
The easier way to tell is the right shifter cable should enter the right side of the down tube. The left shifter cable should enter the left side of the down tube. If they don't then the cables are crossing in the down tube. All directions would be as you're sitting on the bike in the riding position looking forward.
dunbar42 wrote:The easier way to tell is the right shifter cable should enter the right side of the down tube. The left shifter cable should enter the left side of the down tube. If they don't then the cables are crossing in the down tube. All directions would be as you're sitting on the bike in the riding position looking forward.
Huh? The left shifter is the FD and the FD mech is furthest to driver's-side-right. This is why the FD enters the driver's right side of the downtube.
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The bright side is that you isolated the problem. Enjoy the ride!
Well it's actually worse than I thought.
I pulled it all out and this frameset (AR1) is supposed to have three "mousetail ferrules" - basically a ferrule with a long stretch of teflon tubing to house the cable around turns at the BB/chainstay. Well instead of three, the LBS managed to build my bike with only 2. There is no mousetail in my chainstay. The bummer there is that there is a bend in the chainstay at the dropout so the cable has been rubbing directly on the carbon every time I shifted for 1600-1700 miles. Yay LBS!
Now I have to get a new cable set and frickin' basically rebuild the bike which is my racer. At least I don't have a series race this weekend. Time to tune up my B-bike for team rides.
I pulled it all out and this frameset (AR1) is supposed to have three "mousetail ferrules" - basically a ferrule with a long stretch of teflon tubing to house the cable around turns at the BB/chainstay. Well instead of three, the LBS managed to build my bike with only 2. There is no mousetail in my chainstay. The bummer there is that there is a bend in the chainstay at the dropout so the cable has been rubbing directly on the carbon every time I shifted for 1600-1700 miles. Yay LBS!
Now I have to get a new cable set and frickin' basically rebuild the bike which is my racer. At least I don't have a series race this weekend. Time to tune up my B-bike for team rides.
Seems to be quite apt.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=121761
Yes it is more cost effective when your LBS can't even follow simple instructions.........
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=121761
Yes it is more cost effective when your LBS can't even follow simple instructions.........