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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:46 am 
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I have roughly about 600 miles on a set of these tires on Enve 3.4 clinchers. I flatted today, changed the tube, aired it up and was on my way. Shortly after, I felt a lump in the tire and then had a blow out. I changed the tube again, but I noticed the tire wouldnt seat on the lip of the rim, almost like the tire was stretched. I forced the tire down so it would seat, filled it up with air and once again was on my way. Low and behold, the lump in the tire happened again. I looked down and the tube was bulging from the tire/wheel. The tire became unseated for the second time. I cant figure out for the life of me why this is happening. Anyone experience this before or know why?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:21 am 
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First, the obvious, if you didn't properly install the tube, insuring that the it was properly tucked within the casing of the tire, then that would be sufficient to cause both the blowout and may also be what is causing the tire not to seat correctly (i.e. tube is caught between tire bead and rim). Second, if after the blowout the bead unseated from the tire, and the you rode the tire a few rotations, it is possible that you ran over the bead of the tire, causing damage to the bead and thus preventing it from seating. The latter is less likely cause, the former, seems to me, may be the more likely issue. EM3

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 5:21 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:08 am 
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You fitted the tyre badly.
The blow out may have damaged the tyre. it may never seat properly again.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:07 am 
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You must use a good installation technique and make sure the tube isn't under the tire bead. The tire bead was probably torn in the first blow-off and needs to be replaced.

You should also look to see if anything is wrong with the rim where the tire blew off.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 8:26 am 
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I recently learned that you end mounting and start dismounting the tire at the valve, the logic being that the tire beads can move to the center of the rim better opposite the valve, making the effective rim circumference smaller.

The beads can't drop as far into the center of the rim at the valve, making mounting much harder or near impossible, even forcing you to use tire levers for mounting.

If you end at the valve, push the valve into the tire after mounting, then check around both sides of the beads for trapped tube, you greatly reduce the risk for blowouts.

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Last edited by Marin on Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:58 am 
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Location: London, UK
Hmmm I've always done the opposite in regards to the valve. Might give that a go next time I come across a stubborn tyre.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:13 am 
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I make sure my valet looks after these sort of problems if they occur :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:34 am 
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WTF would you want a valet to deal with your bike for?


I get my valet to lay my clothes out while the mechanic preps the bike.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:54 pm 
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I work up to the valve stem myself. That way if worst comes to worst and you have to . . .gasp . . .use a tyre lever, you can push the tube up into the tyre and not pinch it between the lever and the rim.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 10:09 am 
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You didn't say if the lump appeared near the valve area or not.
The bead can get damaged by poor installation as well.
Best way is to install such high TPI tires the like of the vittoria cx, veloflex etc without tools. The bead is weaker than say on michelin or continental tires.
Without rehashing the obvious, here is how i do it
- put one bead on the rim
- slightly inflate the inner tube, just enough to get it round.
- start opposite valve side, lay inner tube evenly in the opening between tire and rim around the wheel and work the inner tube under the tire evenly working both sides towards the valve area.
- inspect, go around the rim and inspect the tube is properly seated under the tire onto center of rim.
- work the other bead on the rim starting opposite valve side working down from each side towards the valve. if the tire is hard to get seated this means your inner tube is inflated too much. slightly deflate then. getting near the valve, there's the last bit at the valve area which is hard to put on.
- deflate the inner tube
- hold the wheel against your body with the valve side at your tummy.
- hold the tire at opposite valve side between thumb and index/middle finger, squeeze, push down (this will move the beads to the center of the rim). do this with both hands, run each hand down from either side towards the valve area while squeezing and pulling down towards the valve side.
- the last bit of the tire at valve side will now be very easy to pop in.
- push the valve up so the beads seat properly around the inner tube valve area.
- slightly inflate inner tube and inspect inner tube seating by pushing the bead inwards on both sides of tire going around the wheel to see if there is no pinching.
- inflate to required pressure.

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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 10:09 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 4:24 am 
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What was the cause of the first flat? Was it easy or difficult to get the bead on? "Easy" would be a red flag to me; I've only used them on two kinds of rims but they're always really tight. Maybe a defective tire? I'm sure it happens although I've been through a dozen or more of these and never had any quality issues. You don't say exactly where the bulging occurred or whether there was any obvious damage to the tire, but I've had aneurisms out the sidewall before from rocks kicking into it (both this and Conti GS4000). Also, unfortunately 600 miles in my experience is about end-of-life for these tires, but I ride a lot of chip & seal with debris, which isn't to say that I don't love them anyway.

I'm not discounting the tube outside the bead theory but I'm wondering if it's really the original issue. I'm not sure that I could do it with these tires if I deliberately tried to. I've also ridden one flat for a couple miles without damaging the bead. I'm thinking it was the sidewall.


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