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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:26 am
Posts: 6
Hey guys,

Probably a huge faux pas.....

Anyone considered drilling the CAAD10 top tube for internal rear brake cabling? - Can't help the OCD in me getting annoyed @ the floating silver cable....

Image

Updated!
Caad 10 - Di2 Black Edition 2013
Reynolds Assault 11 sp
FSA - SL-K Light cranks
11 SP Di2 Ultegra
Fizik Antares 00 Saddle
Fizik R1 Stem
Fizik R3 Handle Bar

Coming soon!
Fizik R1 Seatpost
DuraACe upgrade
SISL Cranks


Last edited by Tigerbalm on Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:29 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:13 am 
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http://fairwheelbikes.com/kcnc-teflon-r ... -4020.html

or Power Cordz


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am
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I just converted my SW Tarmac SL3 to internal brake cable. Work in progress. Using white Power Cordz too.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:09 pm 
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I would not attempt this one with my bike, but would be curious at the end state if you do attempt it.

Wondering what would be the impact on the integrity of the tubes if any?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:12 pm 
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Location: Mississippi
I wouldn't since the new CAADs brake line enters at the head tube.....they probably did that for a reason

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http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=125962


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:14 am 
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I'm just worried about the top tube integrity, but it should be ok hopefully. The new caad10 brake cable has reinforced head tube afaik

Would anyone else be worried about the integrity of the the top tube? Anyone know what the thickness is? I'm thinking of drilling where the current brake guides are. Logic being that they must be low impact zones if the guides are welded there.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:15 am 
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Butcher wrote:
I just converted my SW Tarmac SL3 to internal brake cable. Work in progress. Using white Power Cordz too.


Did you drill the top tube? Any issues with frame integrity, compliance or brake friction?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:32 pm 
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Removed the cable stops [riveted]. Installed the internal guide where the front stop was. I obviously had to put a bigger hole for the guide to fit. The rear was relocated more to the top side. Repaired the rivet holes at the lower tube and drilled a hole in the top portion of the tube for the rear guide.

I thought there may be an issue with the stress the guide would put into the tube when the brake is applied. I installed a few extra layers of carbon on the back side [inside of the tube] to at least calm my fears of being too weak.

As mentioned, it is a work in progress. All I know is that I'm happy with the way it looks. So far the worst part was painting the Nokon segments [and guide] to match the color of the frame.

Just so you know, I'm a Butcher for a reason. You may not want to follow my lead. And you really do not want to know how I ran the EPS wires either.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 12:15 pm 
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Thanks Butcher! I'm glad to hear that there are other crazy junkies out there! Hmmm I can't really put carbon on The inside of this one, do you think, the drill holes will destroy thr integrity of the frame? Maybe cable guide ovals should hold up... Hoping!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:04 pm 
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Would not mind looking at some pictures from you work Butcher. Do you have a build post?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 1:35 am 
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Not done building, too busy working/starting my own business. There will be, cause Tinea Pedis said so.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 10:02 am 
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most metal tubes are butted to account for strength loss of welding/brazing , I'm not sure if alloy cannondales are as they are heat treated after welding? if they are butted you need do drill in those thicker areas ps what a useless photo...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 4:22 pm 
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Lol latman, any photos of drill area will be on flat tube anyway which would all together be useless. Will provide DIY photos when I start to drill


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Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 4:22 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 4:22 pm 
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Lol latman, any photos of drill area will be on flat tube anyway which would all together be useless. Will provide DIY photos when I start to drill


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