Which PF 30 bottom bracket
Moderator: robbosmans
Appologies for the dull subject but any advice is welcome
Building up another cannondale EVO for this season but unsure which pf30 to go for.
SRAM - PF30 - cheap - never had any problems
Wheelmfg - alu shell with enduro angled bearings
Chris king PF 30 - expensive? 5 times cost of SRAM
From what I read the durability of ceramic bearings seems a problem, so I'm happy to stick with steel
What's your experiences good / bad
Thanks
Building up another cannondale EVO for this season but unsure which pf30 to go for.
SRAM - PF30 - cheap - never had any problems
Wheelmfg - alu shell with enduro angled bearings
Chris king PF 30 - expensive? 5 times cost of SRAM
From what I read the durability of ceramic bearings seems a problem, so I'm happy to stick with steel
What's your experiences good / bad
Thanks
Caad9 BBQ Durace7800 build
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
I had heard several users with SRAM that had no problems with creaking or slippage, but with durability. Then I was introduced to the version that pushed in but had threads that a standard Shimano or other bottom bracket just threads into -- nice, but it just rotated when I tried to tighten one side so I needed two wrenches, and I had a problem with it loosening up. Others have endorsed this system.
I looked at a number of PF30 designs like the Praxis, but they each had their own particular issues -- the Praxis, for example, didn't have clearance for Di2 cables in a Moots frame (and Praxis warns you about it on their website). And on and on.
I finally went with the Chris King PF30 and have it in both carbon and ti frames without a hitch. It installs smoothly, lasts forever, you can get ceramic or steel bearings, it has colors, and it works easily with Di2 and other systems. Most importantly, no creaking. Right now I think people are picking PF30 bottom brackets based more on personal success than anything -- and everyone has differing experiences. Mine says to buy King. A couple shops I admire tremendously have the same praise for the SRAM, as do a couple frame builders I know. The King is newer to market so fewer people have used it, and there are other systems that have frankly been around enough to collect enough rants to turn people against them when it isn't really warranted. Installation is really the key on all of them. Heck, it's a bike (and it isn't a 9000 front shifter). I don't think you'll really go wrong with any of them.
I looked at a number of PF30 designs like the Praxis, but they each had their own particular issues -- the Praxis, for example, didn't have clearance for Di2 cables in a Moots frame (and Praxis warns you about it on their website). And on and on.
I finally went with the Chris King PF30 and have it in both carbon and ti frames without a hitch. It installs smoothly, lasts forever, you can get ceramic or steel bearings, it has colors, and it works easily with Di2 and other systems. Most importantly, no creaking. Right now I think people are picking PF30 bottom brackets based more on personal success than anything -- and everyone has differing experiences. Mine says to buy King. A couple shops I admire tremendously have the same praise for the SRAM, as do a couple frame builders I know. The King is newer to market so fewer people have used it, and there are other systems that have frankly been around enough to collect enough rants to turn people against them when it isn't really warranted. Installation is really the key on all of them. Heck, it's a bike (and it isn't a 9000 front shifter). I don't think you'll really go wrong with any of them.
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Whats wrong with the Cannondale KP197 SRM PressFit PF30 Bottom Bracket - PF30, alloy cups, replaceable steel bearings?mattlawro wrote:Appologies for the dull subject but any advice is welcome
Building up another cannondale EVO for this season but unsure which pf30 to go for.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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I like the Wheelmfg BB. Seems like a smart solution.
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This one looks interesting: http://wheelsmfg.com/pressfit-30-bottom ... rings.html
I am on my fourth Cannondale, and like the previous three, the stock bearings went bad within 300 miles. I have good luck with SRAM steel BBs, but the linked BB looks intriguing for my new Evo. Any feedback on this BB?
I am on my fourth Cannondale, and like the previous three, the stock bearings went bad within 300 miles. I have good luck with SRAM steel BBs, but the linked BB looks intriguing for my new Evo. Any feedback on this BB?
11.4 wrote:.....
I finally went with the Chris King PF30 and have it in both carbon and ti frames without a hitch. It installs smoothly, lasts forever, you can get ceramic or steel bearings, it has colors, and it works easily with Di2 and other systems. .........
Can you elaborate a bit about internal Di2 compatibility?
On pictures it does not look like there is clearance enough for cables with the sleeve installed.
Do you run it without the sleeve, or is the sleeve modified to work with Di2?
headwind816 wrote:This one looks interesting: http://wheelsmfg.com/pressfit-30-bottom ... rings.html
I am on my fourth Cannondale, and like the previous three, the stock bearings went bad within 300 miles. I have good luck with SRAM steel BBs, but the linked BB looks intriguing for my new Evo. Any feedback on this BB?
Four separate bearing sets all 'went bad' within 300 miles. What were you doing? riding in 9 inch deep salt water?
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Honestly, I believe it is LBS installation error. All replacements occurred at a different shop. I need to get my own tools.
Teletori wrote:11.4 wrote:.....
I finally went with the Chris King PF30 and have it in both carbon and ti frames without a hitch. It installs smoothly, lasts forever, you can get ceramic or steel bearings, it has colors, and it works easily with Di2 and other systems. .........
Can you elaborate a bit about internal Di2 compatibility?
On pictures it does not look like there is clearance enough for cables with the sleeve installed.
Do you run it without the sleeve, or is the sleeve modified to work with Di2?
I'm wondering the same, it looks like a tight fit with that sleeve. The Praxis one seems to have the holes cut in the actual BB30 bottom bracket for di2 compatibility, but the sleeve for PF30 does not
Based on my experience with Hollogram SRM's, if the spindle has to be 'nudged' use of a rubber mallet or similar lateral force to get it to seat, then bearing life is already compromised due to deformation imposed on the opposing bearing races.headwind816 wrote:Honestly, I believe it is LBS installation error. All replacements occurred at a different shop. I need to get my own tools.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
Does anyone have a Chris King PF30 that would be able to measure the inner and outer diameter of the center sleeve? I'd like to be able to use the BB with a BBRight frame but would need a longer tube to accommodate the 79mm width. I suppose I could leave it out but I don't know how well the bearings are sealed on the back side of the cups.
After seeing that my new frame has a completely enclosed BB shell I decided to go with the King PF30 and leave the tube out. (It's 40mm ID BTW) I certainly can't complain about the quality, it's top-notch. Here's the weights on it. Complete it weighs in at 105g, King claims 101.5g. I don't need the tube or the rubber o-rings so in the end it only costs me 92g which is only 1 gram more than what Competitive Cyclist claims for the SRAM plastic BB.
I would also recommend the Chris King PF30 BB. I went through a few SRAM BBs with my Evo and finally got the CK at a good price. No creaking or issues after about 4000 miles. I'm running the Hollowgram SiSL crankset that came with my bike. I didn't go ceramic, but the steel bearings still spin much smoother than the SRAM.
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I have used both SRAM and the Cannondale BB.
I have killed on Cannondale BB. The SRAM is still going strong.
Also, the SRAM is designed with a centre tube, so if you are running a Di2 Evo, this will help as it will keep the cables away from the rotating axle. The Cannondale BB does not have a centre tube, so the rotating axle is exposed in the frame, giving the possibility of the Di2 cables touching it. I realise that if things are installed correctly, the Di2 cable should be kept away from the rotating axle, but with it exposed, this gives more of a chance of touching.
The SRAM is slightly heavier than the Cannondale one, but from my experience, and that of other posters, it seems to last a very long time, which is worth the extra 10-15g or whatever it weighs (IMO).
I have killed on Cannondale BB. The SRAM is still going strong.
Also, the SRAM is designed with a centre tube, so if you are running a Di2 Evo, this will help as it will keep the cables away from the rotating axle. The Cannondale BB does not have a centre tube, so the rotating axle is exposed in the frame, giving the possibility of the Di2 cables touching it. I realise that if things are installed correctly, the Di2 cable should be kept away from the rotating axle, but with it exposed, this gives more of a chance of touching.
The SRAM is slightly heavier than the Cannondale one, but from my experience, and that of other posters, it seems to last a very long time, which is worth the extra 10-15g or whatever it weighs (IMO).
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