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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 11:53 pm 
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Picked up a 2011 Centaur group at a great price 2 months ago from the UK. Overall it's lighter and cheaper than Ultegra 6700 with much nicer fit, finish and performance. Very easy to install but I have not found a way to remove the left crankarm(no tools are out yet and Campy Tech support has been no help). Sooner or later with all my winter wet weather riding it's going to develop an annoying bottom bracket creak and need servicing.

Anyone actually remove a Power Torque crankset yet? How?

Thanks!


Last edited by nm87710 on Fri Nov 26, 2010 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 11:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 12:35 am 
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Location: durp durp durp
You need a bearing puller, which is described within the support document text found here http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/doc/doccatid_4.jsp.

Piccy shows the puller before it gets placed between the cup / bearing assembly (screwed into the frame) and the crank arm. Should slot between the gap between the two pieces, then the tool pulls the crank off by pushing at the central axle from the DS crank.

Looks complicated / less user friendly compared to UT system. Much the same as 11v chain tool, its creating a market for dedicated tools :|


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 1:56 am 
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Location: Toronto
Somewhere it was hinted that a standard old skool crank puller would screw into the LH crank. If that is true then all you'd need is a suitable diameter round object to go in first acting as a stop against the axle. Like I do with my Isis drive BB's

Still a really stupid move of Campy's. They know all about self extracting screws.

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One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 2:25 am 
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I'm a Campy fan but I never understood why Campy makes things harder to install / maintain. Do they really think it adds to the prestige of the brand?

Differentiate yourself with better products and services, not with different a more complicated installation / maintenance process.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:14 pm
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Location: Portugal
So why they announced that one of the reasons to create the PowerTorque system was to make it simpler to install compared to UltraTorque? :shock:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:18 pm 
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Location: Reading, UK
Burning Dogma wrote:
So why they announced that one of the reasons to create the PowerTorque system was to make it simpler to install compared to UltraTorque? :shock:


Instal - yes.
Un-instal - hmm, we'll get back to you on that.

(Just joking. I have no experience with PT. I assume Campag see it as a way of lowering production costs and providing differentiation for the higher groups.)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:12 am 
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Burning Dogma wrote:
So why they announced that one of the reasons to create the PowerTorque system was to make it simpler to install compared to UltraTorque? :shock:


George Orwell had a name for it - doublethink.

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:22 pm
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Hi - Re 2011 Campagnolo power torque crank removal. just acquired one for a new bike build and after fitting the new cranks I realized I put the spring and rubber seal in the wrong way round and then found I needed an extractor, hard to find one but I went to a local car spares and bought a Draper 13907 - N130 extractor/puller with twin ends and used a steel washer to fit inside the axle like you do with isis as I'm told and making sure it doesn't foul the crank arm, put some rag around the alloy crank arm, and to my surprise it came off easy, ok it cost me £18.99 but I needed to get the bike up and running. hope this helps someone who is finding it hard to get hold of one or is in a hurry to sort there bike out. good luck.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:34 am 
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden
madbiker wrote:
just acquired one for a new bike build and after fitting the new cranks I realized I put the spring and rubber seal in the wrong way round


Yeah, the fitting instructions aren't very clear on that point. I wasn't overly convinced of the correct order when I recently mounted my 2011 Campy CX specific cranks with PT fit. It should be spring first rubber seal out, right?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:20 am 
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Yes that's correct spring inside and rubber outside which stops the water getting into the bearings, I knew I had done something wrong as the cranks never spun as easy as they should have, you live and learn.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:53 pm 
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Location: Reading, UK
I picked up an Athena carbon chainset at a good price recently so had to face the task of installing it. The required tool for powertorque is a 14mm allen key, not a common size but I got one off ebay for £4. Seems that a 14mm hex key has uses in car maintenance, sump drain plugs and things like that.

Installation was easy. The BB cups are PT specific because the non-driveside cup contains the bearing. Once the crank is in place assembly takes place on the non-driveside. With the splines well greased and the LH crank partially in place, the hex key tightened the nut easily. When the LH crank is fully in place the nut won't turn any further.
Hoping that removal will be similarly easy when that becomes necessary although I will have to acquire a bearing puller.

Ultratorque is still a nicer system but the manufacturing cost must be greater.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:33 am 
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Miller wrote:
I picked up an Athena carbon chainset at a good price recently so had to face the task of installing it. The required tool for powertorque is a 14mm allen key, not a common size but I got one off ebay for £4. Seems that a 14mm hex key has uses in car maintenance, sump drain plugs and things like that.

Installation was easy. The BB cups are PT specific because the non-driveside cup contains the bearing. Once the crank is in place assembly takes place on the non-driveside. With the splines well greased and the LH crank partially in place, the hex key tightened the nut easily. When the LH crank is fully in place the nut won't turn any further.
Hoping that removal will be similarly easy when that becomes necessary although I will have to acquire a bearing puller.

Ultratorque is still a nicer system but the manufacturing cost must be greater.


It'll be nice to see how to replace bearings on the drive side, since these are pressed and any standard puller comes with too short arms to reach at the bearings with the long spindle of the PT system.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 12:28 pm 
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Location: Ireland
Park make a tool for removing the drive side bearings.

http://www.parktool.com/product/campagn ... -set-cbp-5


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Quote:
Park make a tool for removing the drive side bearings.

http://www.parktool.com/product/campagn ... -set-cbp-5



I had to watch the Park video to figure it out.

The PT tools are used together with the UT bearing puller (purchased separately), to get Crank and bearing removed.

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:11 pm
Posts: 16
Hmm, so, what's the current opinion on this system vs. UT? :)

I've noticed that the PT cranks are lighter than their UT equivalent (ie.: the PT centaur cranks are approx. 80g lighter than the UT cranks were, and the veloce ones also) whereas there is no significant difference in the weight of the BB cups.

It wouldn't be a problem if I'd go with PT later, as the LBS asks about 2 dollars for installing-removing a crankset, which is actually the price of two cups of coffee..

:


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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:17 pm 


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