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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:49 am
Posts: 250
Attempted to check alignment of the derailleur hanger on the RCA this afternoon and snapped the hanger while attempting to remove the RD. Must have used loctite on the RD bolt as I couldn't get it off. Coupe of questions:

1. Any recommend source/brand for a replacement hanger? Not sure if the RCA uses a standard hanger
2. Is the RD bolt on a Campy SR reverse threaded?

Thanks in advance.


Last edited by audiophilitis on Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:02 am 


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:06 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
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Location: Canada
The RCA uses the same hanger as the regular R series cervelos. I bought a wheels manufacturing one as a spare. Wheels number is 163

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:46 am 
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No it is not reverse threaded.

Did you build the bike yourself?

I would be extremely annoyed if someone had done that to me.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:06 am 
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goodboyr wrote:
The RCA uses the same hanger as the regular R series cervelos. I bought a wheels manufacturing one as a spare. Wheels number is 163


Is the Wheels 163 of better quality than the Cervelo? Thx.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:07 am 
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duplicate response


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:14 am 
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ghisallo2003 wrote:
No it is not reverse threaded.

Did you build the bike yourself?

I would be extremely annoyed if someone had done that to me.


Yes, build the bike myself. That's what bothers me -- no idea why the bolt seized. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to following torque specs.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:23 am
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I've had great luck with 925 Engineering hangers and the price is great. They are more durable in my experience than Wheels MFG but the finish is not as good (but they are 50-80% less money).

I don't see Cervelo on their website but you might try emailing them and see if they have.

http://www.925engineering.com/servlet/Service


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:58 am 
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Location: California
Yes, the Wheels MFG hangers are much better. OEM hangers tend to be really soft. Most of the bikes we get directly from the manufacturer need to be aligned.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 3:55 am 
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The Cervelo hanger that comes stock on the RCA appears to be of much better quality than the older cervelo versions. The wheels one is just a bit nicer looking. I think cervelo acted on the feedback by making the new ones nicer. So either way you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 4:08 am 
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goodboyr wrote:
The Cervelo hanger that comes stock on the RCA appears to be of much better quality than the older cervelo versions. The wheels one is just a bit nicer looking. I think cervelo acted on the feedback by making the new ones nicer. So either way you should be fine.



Thanks -- I just ordered a couple of the WM 163s. I'm now thinking this incident is probably a good excuse to switch to Campy SR EPS V2. Does anyone have this setup on an RCA? The V2 internal battery option is appealing -- just need to figure out where the charging port should be located. Appreciate your thoughts on this.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:59 am 
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It is reasonable practice to put blue loctite on the 2 retaining screws, as I find the often work loose on my cervelos. There has been numerous reports of rear dropouts snapping off on the earlier R3s, and granted this is due to the previous vertical screw orientation, I suspect a few of these were probably also due to loose hanger screws.

I concur with the boys above, the Wheels hangers are a good option. I'm running on one my S5 and it seems a little stiffer and required less realignment given I run Di2. Stiffer hangers however also have a safety trade off for your RD.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 8:23 am 
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yes. locktite on the hanger fixing, but not the rear mech !


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:09 pm 
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ghisallo2003 wrote:
yes. locktite on the hanger fixing, but not the rear mech !


Woops I missed that... Def no loctite on the RD bolt lol


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:05 pm 
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audiophilitis wrote:
The V2 internal battery option is appealing -- just need to figure out where the charging port should be located. Appreciate your thoughts on this.


I am planning to use the V2 battery on a NeilPryde Bura SL. I will probably leave the cable loose in the seattube, so charging would require removing the seatpost. Not ideal, but also not a deal breaker…

Another possible solution is to drill the seatpost instead of the frame… charging gets easier, but removing the seatpost becomes more difficult and risky… you would have to unplug the charging port before removing the seatpost.


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Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:05 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:33 pm 
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AndreLM wrote:
audiophilitis wrote:
The V2 internal battery option is appealing -- just need to figure out where the charging port should be located. Appreciate your thoughts on this.


I am planning to use the V2 battery on a NeilPryde Bura SL. I will probably leave the cable loose in the seattube, so charging would require removing the seatpost. Not ideal, but also not a deal breaker…

Another possible solution is to drill the seatpost instead of the frame… charging gets easier, but removing the seatpost becomes more difficult and risky… you would have to unplug the charging port before removing the seatpost.


If the battery pack is installed with the wires on the bottom end, you will have to run the charging wire back up if you intend to access it through the seatpost. I think with the diameter of the RCA seat tube, there won't be enough room to run the charging cable alongside the battery pack. Since the BuraSL uses a 27.2 seatpost as well, won't you have the same issue?


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