Fed up with sram, may be changin to campy- how do I do this?

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nayr497
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:55 pm
Location: North Carolina, USA

by nayr497

I've had bad luck with SRAM stuff too. Got used Force on my cx bike. Worked for awhile, then the pawls stopped engaging. I bought a new Force right shifter. That broke as well. SRAM warrantied it, which was nice. And, no Force on hand so sent me Red. It worked really, really well for a month or so, now I'm busy monkeying with it, trying to get the right to shift properly. And "monkeying" is apt - I'll follow the set up instructions and it still won't work properly. I'll play around with it in the stand, it'll work, but I don't know what I changed.

I'm on 2012 Red. The paddle movement to send the chain in is pretty tough. Does it get easier with more use? I know Campa shifters tend to "break in" and on my road bikes, those are definitely smoother and easier to push.

Also, I was shifting some Red 22 shifters on a bike in a stand at the NAHBS on Saturday. VERY smooth. Is that just a new design feature? Or, might mine be that smooth and easy?

Also, my paddle gets harder to push as I get further in on the cassette. Is this normal or have I set something up incorrectly?

Thanks.
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deek
Posts: 406
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:32 pm

by deek

The pawls not engaging thing usually means that you've got a bunch of dirt/grime/whatever in there. Peel the hood forward and then there are 3 screws holding on a plastic cover. Undo those screws and it'll be pretty easy to clean under there. Especially considering this was on your CX bike, I'd look there first next time before buying a new shifter.

As far as getting your rear shifting correct, do you know if your hanger is straight? I'd check that first. Do you have someone that can show you how to properly adjust an RD? Really all you need to do is set the limits and then use the barrel adjuster to set the tension. There shouldn't really be any 'monkeying' involved.

As far as the ease of shift, that really depends on your cable routing like any other shifter. Do you have any tight bends in the housing like around the handle bars? Or perhaps some funky internal cable routing system? The paddle will get harder on any group as you get to the bigger cogs on the cassette because that's when the spring force in the RD is highest. As far as I can tell, SRAM shifter internals have been pretty much identical since they came out except for the whole 10/11 speed thing so your shifters are capable of being that easy.

ToffieBoi
Posts: 417
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:54 pm
Location: Krakow, Poland

by ToffieBoi

From 10 speed Shimano/Sram to 11 speed Campy change is quite hard.
I decided to do the same a few years ago and only reasonable way was selling all the parts you have and buying new ones.

Because I wasn't able to afford all that part changes, I postponed my plans, and last year I did the same for Ultegra 6800 groupsets.


Now with new Sram/Shimano 11s groupsets, you are able to keep your 10 speed freehub body with a small modification (just rasp a few mm at the end of the body, if there is place of course) so you will be able to use 11s shimano/sram cassettes and it will save you from changing all wheelset / hub / freehub.

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