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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:13 pm
Posts: 23
Hi All

Just a quick question regarding bottom bracket changing.

I recently purchased a used Cervélo R3, which require the bottom bracket replaced.

I run a Sram Force 22 groupset with GXP - including the Enduro BBright 30mm to SRAM GXP Adaptor Kit on the bike.

I am keen on chaining the bottom bracket myself.

I do not have the specific tools to do this - and I do not have a replacement bottom bracket yet.

Therefore this post where I would like to have verified the tools and bottom bracket that I am about to order.

First the tool:

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;n ... gc=120:428

or

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;n ... gc=120:428

Can I use either one - or is one more preferable than the other? I can see that they come with different “installation bushings”.

I would simply insert the toll into the bottom bracket after I have removed the crankset and tap the bottom bracket out with above tool and a hammer. I assume that both the bearing, the bearing
housing and the adapter will pop out.

Second the bottom bracket:

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;n ... 0618:10619

This in connection with the adapter would be the right one?

Third assembly:

I would use a threaded rod in connection with the Park Tool installation bushings #669 or #668 - depending on the selected tool above and then via two nuts and two wrench screw the bottom
bracket into place. Afterword’s I assume that I can slide the adapther into the bottom bracket - and the job is completed.

Have I misunderstood something - or is there an error in my way forward?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
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Location: Welland, Ontario
I'm responding as a student of BB systems - no experience with this combo.

The BBright system is an adaption of PF30, so I'd think the first tool set would be the right one.

After pressing in the new BB, you still need adapters like these to fit a GXP crank

http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-EBBBRGXPA.html

http://bbright.net/images/whybbright/slide15.png

I don't know how well this is all going to work in practice, given that there are more pressed-in parts to become loose. Also the GXP system was originally designed in the days of screwed in bearing cups, which provided a nice firm anchor for the spindle as it clamps onto the NDS bearing. Not so much when things are just pressed together. Good luck.

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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:44 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 12:02 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 885
Location: Canada
Those tools will work, the first tool is better.
Reference http://www.bbright.net for compatibility info plus installation instructions including the correct Loctite gap filler plus applicator when you install the new BB
The BB you linked to seems like its for BB86, not a PF30 type size. BBright accepts any BB that goes into a PF30 frame. But then you need to adapt that BB to your GXP cranks.

Here is the standard SRAM PF30 BBright compatible BB from Bike24:

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?product=29770;dbp=0;page=1;content=8;navigation=1;menu=1000,4,23;mid=170;pgc=10618:10619


Here is the appropriate adapter to then go to a GXP crank:

http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-EBBBRGXPA.html

Edit: Duh.....just noticed the post above which is same info as this....sorry for the repeat.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:13 pm
Posts: 23
Thanks for the great replies.

I will go with the first tool described in my first post.

Regarding the bottom bracket type - it is correct understood that the bottom bracket type in a Cervélo is BBRight - And that the bottom bracket type that fits in a BBRight will be a PF-30 type bottom bracket? The one that I link to is named: “PressFit BB-Right Bottom Bracket PF46-79/83-30”.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:17 am 
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Yes. PF30 type bb's work. I saw that designation and it is correct, but I also saw it said the bb86 designation as well and that is not correct. Probably got my links screwed up.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:23 am 
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Location: Welland, Ontario
BBright uses PF30 type bearings but wider apart than true PF30. The BB you linked to is correct. Then you need inserts to reduce from 30mm to the GXP's 24/22mm.

http://bbright.net/faq.aspx

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:39 am 
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Location: Canada
As well, I know that Rotor made a BBright to gxp bottom bracket designation 4624L, but they are hard to find. They just took their regular bbright to shimano 24 bottom bracket and put a metal sleeve in one side to accommodate the gxp stepdown to 22 mm.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:13 pm
Posts: 23
Great.

I will then locate a PF-30 bottom bearing. The "only" come in one size - right? And does they always come with the housing?

The adapter that I currently use is this on: http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;n ... =136;pgc=0 I assume that I can reuse this - and simply insert this into the PF-30 bottom bracket after I have installed this?

I have search the web for a small container of Loctite 641 - however is seems that it is difficult to find this. If you know a dealer within EU, I would appreciate a link.
I do apologize for the “newbie” questions :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:28 pm 
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Location: Surrey UK
If I may advise you something, press the bb in without Loctite first. If the fit is nice and tight you won't need loctite it.
My first instalation was with Loctite. I realized what it meant when I was trying to replace it recently. Massive hammering didn't give any results.
I had to cut off the bb flange on both sides to allow the home made extractor to seat on the bb shell's edge.
When extractor broke the loctite bond, then with Park Tool BBT 303 the cups popped out nicely.
I mounted the new bb without Loctite, very firmed fit, already put few hundreds miles, without any issues.

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Pronghorn XC SW Race 8284g/18.26lb


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:31 pm 
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Double post.

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Pronghorn XC SW Race 8284g/18.26lb


Last edited by 1415chris on Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:59 am
Posts: 628
Location: Surrey UK
If I may advise you something, press the bb in without Loctite first. If the fit is nice and tight you won't need loctite it.
My first instalation was with Loctite. I realized what it meant when I was trying to replace it recently. Massive hammering didn't give any results.
I had to cut off the bb flanges on both sides to allow the home made extractor to seat on the bb shell's edge.
When extractor broke the loctite bond, then with Park Tool BBT 303 the cups popped out nicely.
I mounted the new bb without Loctite, very firmed fit, already put few hundreds miles, without any issues.

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Cervelo R5 VWD 5637g/12.43lb
Pronghorn XC SW Race 8284g/18.26lb


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 885
Location: Canada
A couple of points.

- The only difference between regular PF30 BB's and ones that are compatible with BBright, is that the middle connecting tube is longer to accomodate the wider shell. Ive installed both kinds in BBright frames. Theoretically, there might be a chance of water ingress to the back of the bearings with the non bbright PF30 cups because of the shorter connecting tube and thus a small gap, but I've not experienced this.
- I disagree with the poster above. Please follow the bbright.net instructions and use the correct loctite GAP FILLER and activator to install. This is not a glue, and will not prevent removal. I've worked on tons of these, and the removal using the park tool and mallet persuasion is no issue and not difficult. All the examples of creaking and problems in bbright are because the LBS who did the initial install did not follow the instructions. They installed them dry, or maybe they used blue loctite thread locker. Both methods will give you issues down the road. There is a lot of experience on this over at the Cervelo.com forums. Just search on BBright and you will learn a great deal.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:14 pm 
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Location: Canada
I've always been able to get it through amazon.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCTITE-BEARING-RETAINER-Bearing-Retainer/dp/B00AFT6FBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414678360&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+609


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:59 am
Posts: 628
Location: Surrey UK
goodboyr you can disagree, but it doesn't change the fact, that the cups with Loctite (yes I followed instruction) were not possible to hammer out of the shell. And please read what I had to do to move it out.
And what is the point of using something if it is not necessary?
As pointed out in my previous post, mounted bb with no Loctite this time and I do not have any problems, so far.
Loctite is a remedy for creaking problems, if you do not have ones, do not use it.
If you start experiencing problems, then it make sense. that is my take, after what I experienced.

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Cervelo R5 VWD 5637g/12.43lb
Pronghorn XC SW Race 8284g/18.26lb


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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:59 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:51 pm 
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Location: Canada
Totally up to the OP of course on which advice to follow. But as stated, I've got lots of bbright installs and removals under my belt, the approved bbright.net instructions, and the large body of experience on the cervelo forums all give the same answer. I would also point out that you've only got hundreds of km on this install and typically creaking and issues don't arise until you're into thousands of km. You may very well be lucky and have a perfect bb shell and bb cup interface that gives you success without anything......but thats pretty rare given how these things are built.

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