SRAM Red Rear Derailleur Tuning with Fibre-Lyte
Moderator: robbosmans
I did some searching and couldn't find answers.
I'm going to tune the current version of the SRAM Red RD with Fibre-Lyte mech plate and pulley wheels, but I'm not sure about a couple of things.
For the mech plate, does it matter which size cage the RD has? The Fibre-lyte plate doesn't seem to come in different sizes, and the SRAM site doesn't list different cage sizes, but a few places selling it offer short and medium cages. Not sure if of the fitting here.
Also, the jockey wheels come in 10t and 11t. I think the stock wheels that come in the RD are 10t, so does it matter which size I get, or I have to get the same size as stock?
I'm going to tune the current version of the SRAM Red RD with Fibre-Lyte mech plate and pulley wheels, but I'm not sure about a couple of things.
For the mech plate, does it matter which size cage the RD has? The Fibre-lyte plate doesn't seem to come in different sizes, and the SRAM site doesn't list different cage sizes, but a few places selling it offer short and medium cages. Not sure if of the fitting here.
Also, the jockey wheels come in 10t and 11t. I think the stock wheels that come in the RD are 10t, so does it matter which size I get, or I have to get the same size as stock?
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the size of the cage depends only if you are planning on running really big cogs in the back.
Like a 12-27 ideally should be using a longer cage. If you run an average size cassette (11-23, 12-23, 12-25 etc) a short cage should be fine. Also the jockey wheels are kinda moot point. The theory is a 11t spins slightly less than a 10t rear cog and thus saves on power (less power loss). It's negligible.
The one important thing to note for jockey wheels is match the design with the original one. I can't remember sram derailleurs, I never bothered to take my apart. But for Shimano the top jockey wheel is designed to have side to side float. Some aftermarket jockey wheels don't have this float make messes up with the shifting a bit.
Like a 12-27 ideally should be using a longer cage. If you run an average size cassette (11-23, 12-23, 12-25 etc) a short cage should be fine. Also the jockey wheels are kinda moot point. The theory is a 11t spins slightly less than a 10t rear cog and thus saves on power (less power loss). It's negligible.
The one important thing to note for jockey wheels is match the design with the original one. I can't remember sram derailleurs, I never bothered to take my apart. But for Shimano the top jockey wheel is designed to have side to side float. Some aftermarket jockey wheels don't have this float make messes up with the shifting a bit.
Thanks. So the cage length has no affect on the size of the mech plate? Basically the Fibre-Lyte plate will work with any size cage?
The jockey wheels do have lateral float, so it should be fine.
The jockey wheels do have lateral float, so it should be fine.
I would email Fibre-Lyte and ask them directly. Are you going to replace both the inner and outer cage with Fibrelyte parts? Stephen from Fibre Ltye sometimes frequents the forum. But best to ask them directly.
I would, but I don't have the RD yet. Want to make sure I get the correct parts before getting them.
Cheers! wrote:I would email Fibre-Lyte and ask them directly. Are you going to replace both the inner and outer cage with Fibrelyte parts? Stephen from Fibre Ltye sometimes frequents the forum. But best to ask them directly.
Didn't even know they made an outter plate. I have only seen the inner plate.
Yeah, I definitely can, just figured someone on here has done this tune and would know.
I'm talking about the standard Red RD, not 22 or WiFli.
I mounted the Fibre-Lyte back plate to current generation 10sp Red and it worked very well. I took off the knob from the fibre-lyte (which was more for the previous generation Red) and then used a dremel to make the back plate look identical to the front.
jvanv8 wrote:I mounted the Fibre-Lyte back plate to current generation 10sp Red and it worked very well. I took off the knob from the fibre-lyte (which was more for the previous generation Red) and then used a dremel to make the back plate look identical to the front.
Any photos of what you did and more info as I'm keen to try to do similar to my red RD?
Cheers baz
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5 8 5 wrote:My previous post applies to Sram Red 2012 as well.
BTW the jockey wheels have 11 teeth.
Thanks for the jockey wheels size, but still confused about he derailleur. So the current standard Sram Red RD only comes in a short cage?