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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:32 pm
Posts: 475
I don't trust them, coz the ones I've had keep loosening, so I only use them on front derailleurs. I use cheap ones, so I dunno if that makes much of a difference.
I still have "clothesline" gears (7800 and 7700), so perhaps the movement from steering causes them to twist.
Either way, it doesn't bother me, coz it's too easy to tighten the FD while riding.

I forgot to put one on my old Carbon Soloist, and it's been working fine without one. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 4:25 pm
Posts: 16
Location: London
Hot for TT bikes with hidden rear brakes.

Very handy when I am adjusting my rear brakes between the training wheels and the firecrests on my Felt DA.


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Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:51 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 2:50 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Istanbul, Turkey
I have inline adjusters for both derailleurs. If you have a flat rear tire when racing, the new rear wheel may be mounted a little crooked during the wheel change as time is critical. I have no time to check the gear adjustment while stopped so I do it when I'm trying to catch the group.
This is enough reason to keep the adjusters IMHO.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am
Posts: 288
Adjusters not hot. Just get it right the first time.

The Felt could be hot without that eagle beak of a saddle.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:19 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:18 pm
Posts: 87
tinozee wrote:
Adjusters not hot. Just get it right the first time.

The Felt could be hot without that eagle beak of a saddle.


Sorry about the saddle. Don't like numbness in my junk. Fizik feels like sitting on a pole. Might as well just not use a saddle and sit directly on the seatpost.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:32 pm
Posts: 144
upside wrote:
You will need a in-line barrel adjuster with the Yaw derailleur and the 9000 Dura Ace. You need to really ratchet up the tension to get those to work like they should. I have used Sram and Jagwires...and those work nice and are quite small.

This guy is spot on. It is a total PITA to get the cable tension high enough without the adjuster. Your housing will eventually seat itself and you'll lose more tension and have to start the process over again without the adjuster. Totally worth it.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:09 pm 
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in the industry
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 6:31 pm
Posts: 337
I use a Park tools 4th hand tool, the BT2 Cable Stretcher when needed. Great for brakes and derailleurs.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:28 am
Posts: 117
Location: Berkeley, CA
I'm with carbonLord on this. I use a 4th hand/cable puller and can get more than enough tension on a Yaw derailleur with no need for an inline adjuster. The right tool makes it easy to get the job done right the first time.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:06 pm
Posts: 172
Never had the need for an in-line adjuster - it just needs a little finesse when installing the cable. TBH the adjuster's only real purpose is to compensate for less than optimal wrenching :oops:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 1715
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
Or perhaps you are more tolerant of poor shifting.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:18 pm
Posts: 87
eric wrote:
Or perhaps you are more tolerant of poor shifting.


Haha true that. The minimal weight added/ loss of aerodynamics from an inline adjuster will cost you less time in a race than dropping a chain from an improper shift.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 3:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am
Posts: 288
Twinning -

Haha @ just mount the post. No, I hear you about the saddle, but I had to deliver the honesty in the "hot or not" context. The bike looks fast as all hell. I will save you from showing you a distance bike I have with an Adamo saddle. Also, I think the Felt/Sram combo is a personal taste thing. It screams "USA" to me, whereas many euro bike types only accept campy and made in italy frames. To each his own, I like both. And on the road in motion, fast as hell looks the best.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:02 am
Posts: 1
Not. I had cable friction issues with Jagwire inline adjusters on a Super-Record rear derailleur set up. Removed the adjusters and the problem improved. I don't use it on the front derailleur either. It is possible/easy to set up perfectly without if you spend a little time on it.


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Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:03 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 4:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 161
Location: NZ
No, not cool for weightweenies to have in-line adjusters.

I removed my on-frame barrel adjusters to save weight, and my current ride has been built without.

Front does not need adjustment and fine-tuning is done at the rear deraileur.

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