Powertap G3 bearings
Moderator: robbosmans
I have four 61802 2RS bearings listed for the G3 hub with a 15mm axle.
That measurement is 24mm Outside diameter, 15mm inner diameter and 5mm width.
I also have a note on it as that says 2011 only (can't remember why, but presumably there were other options at some point)
Back a couple of years ago Saris were selling these crappy old bearings for £15 each! You can get this type of cheap bearing for £2-3 at a bearing dealers?
Inexpensive stainless is the way to go, or SKF or something like that.
Hope that helps.
That measurement is 24mm Outside diameter, 15mm inner diameter and 5mm width.
I also have a note on it as that says 2011 only (can't remember why, but presumably there were other options at some point)
Back a couple of years ago Saris were selling these crappy old bearings for £15 each! You can get this type of cheap bearing for £2-3 at a bearing dealers?
Inexpensive stainless is the way to go, or SKF or something like that.
Hope that helps.
Pedalling Law Student.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I tried to replace the nds side bearing of my g3 hub. I pressed the axle from ds, and I was able to push nds the bearing out from the hole by 5mm, but after that it didn't come out more no matter how I hammered or pushed the axle. What am I doing wrong? I had to push it back. Hope I didn't broke anything..
Nailoni wrote:I tried to replace the nds side bearing of my g3 hub. I pressed the axle from ds, and I was able to push nds the bearing out from the hole by 5mm, but after that it didn't come out more no matter how I hammered or pushed the axle. What am I doing wrong? I had to push it back. Hope I didn't broke anything..
I'm resurrecting this thread because I'm curious about replacing bearings in the G3. I know that PT says you need to send it in like all prior hubs, but we could always do it ourselves quite easily before.
Anybody got experience with the G3? Because it would not be good if they've made this impossible... I mean extremely difficult, to do yourself. Bearings simply don't always last that long in some conditions.
formerly rruff...
Anyone have experience with the new GS hubs? The internals are DT Swiss, so I'm wondering if the bearings are the same ones DT uses, as well.
Madone 9 - https://bit.ly/2Nqedbn
Emonda SLR - https://bit.ly/2UK5FP8
Crockett - https://bit.ly/2Xem4sk
Emonda SLR - https://bit.ly/2UK5FP8
Crockett - https://bit.ly/2Xem4sk
Powertap hub bearings are very sensitive to poor dropout alignment and I suspect this is the #1 cause of premature failure. I got a frame warrantied for this reason. It explains why there is a big spread in bearing life. Surely Powertap/Cyclops must know by now that the bearings are 'crap'. So why would they keep spec'ing them?
dynaserve wrote:Powertap hub bearings are very sensitive to poor dropout alignment and I suspect this is the #1 cause of premature failure.
That could be true for the NDS hub bearing since the cap was sort of loose and pressed right against the inner race of that bearing. The G3 is a little different, so they probably fixed that problem. But legs 11 above stated that the G3 takes 4 6802 bearings, which are very small and low load capacity.
formerly rruff...
Powertap bearings are very sensitive to pre-load, you can have them perfectly set with the wheel unmounted on your bike
but when you pull the skewer and tighten the wheel into the frame they overload causing premature failure. The best way
is by trial and error backing off the bearing load until when mounted in the frame their is some play rocking the wheel then
slightly tighten until its gone. I have the early 12mm hub and have to use locktight on the nut threads so they don't walk tighter.
Often times what feels like rough hub bearings are really rough cassette carrier bearings which I have had to change out more frequently.
Do the same proceedure with the hub carrier and its bearings will last much longer too.
I have 20k miles on Phil Wood Extreme Duty hub bearings and still running smooth.
but when you pull the skewer and tighten the wheel into the frame they overload causing premature failure. The best way
is by trial and error backing off the bearing load until when mounted in the frame their is some play rocking the wheel then
slightly tighten until its gone. I have the early 12mm hub and have to use locktight on the nut threads so they don't walk tighter.
Often times what feels like rough hub bearings are really rough cassette carrier bearings which I have had to change out more frequently.
Do the same proceedure with the hub carrier and its bearings will last much longer too.
I have 20k miles on Phil Wood Extreme Duty hub bearings and still running smooth.
I need new bearings in my G3 hub again, last time they were replaced under warrenty by Paligap, which was about 2.5 years ago.
I've just read here that you need to send it back to Paligap for replacement: [url="http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How-To_-_Powertap_3486.html"]http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How-To_-_Powertap_3486.html[/url]
"The reason you cannot replace Powertap bearings is that the hub needs to be recalibrated after new bearings are pressed in."
But it sounds like lots of people are doing it themselves? Do I need to worry about asking my LBS to change them?
I've just read here that you need to send it back to Paligap for replacement: [url="http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How-To_-_Powertap_3486.html"]http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How-To_-_Powertap_3486.html[/url]
"The reason you cannot replace Powertap bearings is that the hub needs to be recalibrated after new bearings are pressed in."
But it sounds like lots of people are doing it themselves? Do I need to worry about asking my LBS to change them?
TFC wrote:.
Often times what feels like rough hub bearings are really rough cassette carrier bearings which I have had to change out more frequently.
Do the same proceedure with the hub carrier and its bearings will last much longer too.
I did a ride on Sunday and started getting creaking and crackling noises from the bike, I was fearful I'd finally picked up press fit BB noise, however it's not that, the noise was clearly drivetrain related and has gone away now I've swapped in a different pair of wheels.
The guilty wheel has a PT G3 hub. My feeling from playing around with it a little is that the hub bearings are fine but the cassette carrier bearings are suspect. What's the best way of getting cassette carrier bearings replaced, anyone any thoughts? Hopefully I can avoid needing to send to Paligap (I'm in UK).
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
- jekyll man
- Posts: 1570
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:23 am
- Location: Pack filler
Miller wrote:
I did a ride on Sunday and started getting creaking and crackling noises from the bike, I was fearful I'd finally picked up press fit BB noise, however it's not that, the noise was clearly drivetrain related and has gone away now I've swapped in a different pair of wheels.
The guilty wheel has a PT G3 hub. My feeling from playing around with it a little is that the hub bearings are fine but the cassette carrier bearings are suspect. What's the best way of getting cassette carrier bearings replaced, anyone any thoughts? Hopefully I can avoid needing to send to Paligap (I'm in UK).
My freehub body started fracturing at the edge where it goes up to the hub body when that started making noises; i picked a new freehub off Malcolm Borg ("bombproof" on here /Glermsford Cycle Clinic), it was only £30 odd. Just have to swap the seal over onto the new one.
Imo its not worth arseing about with the bearings
Official cafe stop tester
Thanks for the tip, I'll follow it up. Agree with what you say, I don't fancy trying to replace the freehub bearings.
cycling / nature / music
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
https://www.youtube.com/c/Millerbike01
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
legs 11 wrote:I have four 61802 2RS bearings listed for the G3 hub with a 15mm axle.
.
Every G3 I've worked on has three 6802 bearings. One non drive side, and two in the free hub. The drive side bearing is a larger 6902.
FWIW, it seems to be relatively easy to damage the freehub replacing the bearings in it. I've seen a lot of botched home attempts that resulted in a new freehub being needed. So proceed with caution. Most commonly it's really only the single non drive side bearing (6802) that really needs to be replaced.