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 Post subject: Which e-tubes to buy?
PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:46 pm 
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Heya,

I'm in the process of gathering all the necessary bits and pieces for my next build- a Colnago C59 Dura-Ace Di2.

Does anyone have any insight into what lengths of e-tube I'll need? I suppose I could just order up a whole bunch but I'd rather be a bit more precise as they're each nearly $40.

Thanks in advance.

-J


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 Post subject: Which e-tubes to buy?
Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:46 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:07 pm 
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When I was in the same boat as you as to what lengths of wire to get for my R5 build, I ran string to all the termination points to simulate the wires and then measured the strings. If it's borderline go a little longer.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:04 pm 
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What's the size of the bike you'll be building up?

These guys have them for less than $30 if you want to try a few sizes

http://www.artscyclery.com/Shimano_SD50 ... b=RDMCOMPS


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:08 pm 
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Competitive Cyclist has a nice table with the suggested sizes:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/shima ... F0MTAwMTA5


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:53 am 
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That Competitive Cyclist chart is pretty good.

Basically, unless you're riding very wide bars or have a very tall bike, 350 mm cables work for each shift lever, the rear derailleur, and the front derailleur. 750 mm cables work for an internal seat post battery and for the down tube connection. I fix the junction box under the front of the stem -- it tends to be a messy install if it's on a brake cable or anywhere else.

Be sure to leave a little loop of cable (taking up a couple centimeters or so) at each lever so that if anything gets knocked in a fall, it doesn't pull the cable out of the lever socket. Generally try to have the brake cable shield the e-tube cable from hits -- the rubber insulation isn't all that tough and can be crushed, at which point the system can start to act erratically. Tape everything down along the bars -- don't count on the handlebar tape to keep it in place. And I got some heat-shrinkable tubing (Home Depot had 7-foot rolls of the stuff in the right size), which you can use both just to protect the cables as they go in and out of frame holes. Also, you can slip sections over the rear brake housing (and perhaps elsewhere) and run the e-tube inside so the two cables are sandwiched together. A little hair dryer action and the tubing tightens up neatly over both parts.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:15 pm 
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11.4 wrote:
And I got some heat-shrinkable tubing (Home Depot had 7-foot rolls of the stuff in the right size), which you can use both just to protect the cables as they go in and out of frame holes. Also, you can slip sections over the rear brake housing (and perhaps elsewhere) and run the e-tube inside so the two cables are sandwiched together. A little hair dryer action and the tubing tightens up neatly over both parts.


Great tip and idea!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:29 pm 
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Location: Brisbane, Oz
11.4 wrote:
Also, you can slip sections over the rear brake housing (and perhaps elsewhere) and run the e-tube inside so the two cables are sandwiched together. A little hair dryer action and the tubing tightens up neatly over both parts.
Nice tip.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:33 am 
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Here is the Shimano guide on how to measure for e-tube wire lengths.

Image


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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 3:33 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:30 pm 
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That is a nice guide. Just to make sure, I would mock up a piece of rope and measure it to make sure. That's what I did with my Cervelo R5.

vwo05 wrote:
Here is the Shimano guide on how to measure for e-tube wire lengths.

Image


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