11 Speed Di2 Front Shifting Troubles

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
goodboyr
Posts: 1388
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Location: Canada

by goodboyr

Page 56

MNX1024
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Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am

by MNX1024

Tried what's on the manual already. When in micro adjust mode, the only thing I can move is the rear derailleur. When setting the low limit screw to the point where there cage won't touch the chain, after shifting the derailleur, it will auto trim to a position where there is chain rub. This happens only when I'm in the small ring up front and largest cog in the back. Cage is parallel too.....

by Weenie


LoggingMiles
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 3:46 pm

by LoggingMiles

MNX1024 wrote:Tried what's on the manual already. When in micro adjust mode, the only thing I can move is the rear derailleur. When setting the low limit screw to the point where there cage won't touch the chain, after shifting the derailleur, it will auto trim to a position where there is chain rub. This happens only when I'm in the small ring up front and largest cog in the back. Cage is parallel too.....


Something is wrong. There is absolutely a micro adjust on the FD. If you are only moving the rear it is because you are using the rear shifter (right shifter).

Hold the button on your A Junction until the red light is solid. Using the X and Y buttons on your left shifter (Front Shifter) you can move the FD side to side. This should be done in the Big/Big combo and you are aiming for a 0-0.5mm clearance between the chain and the FD Cage. Then hold the button again to take it out of micro adjust mode.

This is on page 57 and 58 of the dealer manual. It is called "Top Position Electrical Adjustment"

http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 00-ENG.pdf

goodboyr
Posts: 1388
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Location: Canada

by goodboyr

So........you are not following the manual?........why are we bothering here?

OhPinchy
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:38 pm

by OhPinchy

I had somewhat similar problems with front shifting and found the Ultegra dealers manual linked here very useful for the fine tuning instructions. I have DuraAce 9000 11-speed Di2, does anyone have a link to a similar dealers manual for DA (I'd use it for reference for other items, may be some differences between DA and Ultegra)?

I swapped out the chainset on my Cannondale Supersix for a DuraAce 7900 SRM powermeter 50/34 chainset. I've been having frequent chain drops on the outer side, not the more common inner side. Chain ends up tangled around the crank arm and scratches it. Not good. I've ordered a K-Edge chain catcher (one of these) as it looks like it will catch the chain dropping on either the inside or the outside.

But that's only dealing with the symptoms, so I'd like to sort it out properly. Is it likely that I'll need to move the front derailleur down to reduce the gap given it's now on a compact chainring? I can post pics later, but just want to check if that's the most likely issue. Front derailleur setup is one area I always struggled with on mechanical groupsets so I've kinda been reluctant to go near it, but seems from this thread it's more straightforward for Di2 so I'll give it a go if the feeling is that's the cause.

Other cause may be overly long chain, but when changing the chain recently, I followed advice on youtube videos and reduced the length but it's still happening. Since the chain change, I'm having rear derailleur shifting problems also: following the fine tuning instructions helped somewhat, but it's still not as smooth shifting as it was before the chain change, wondering if it takes a while to bed in a new DuraAce 11-speed chain?

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rmerka
Posts: 618
Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:23 pm
Location: Austin, TX

by rmerka

Just go to http://si.shimano.com and choose Duraace rather than Ultegra.

glepore
Posts: 1072
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:42 pm
Location: Pa USA

by glepore

Yes you need to move the fd down. That will solve your issue.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Cannondale SS Evo Di2 7970 (5.79); Willier Cento Uno Air Di2 9070 (7.0); C40 Mk2 DA 7800 ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record

LoggingMiles
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 3:46 pm

by LoggingMiles

OhPinchy wrote:I had somewhat similar problems with front shifting and found the Ultegra dealers manual linked here very useful for the fine tuning instructions. I have DuraAce 9000 11-speed Di2, does anyone have a link to a similar dealers manual for DA (I'd use it for reference for other items, may be some differences between DA and Ultegra)?

I swapped out the chainset on my Cannondale Supersix for a DuraAce 7900 SRM powermeter 50/34 chainset. I've been having frequent chain drops on the outer side, not the more common inner side. Chain ends up tangled around the crank arm and scratches it. Not good. I've ordered a K-Edge chain catcher (one of these) as it looks like it will catch the chain dropping on either the inside or the outside.

But that's only dealing with the symptoms, so I'd like to sort it out properly. Is it likely that I'll need to move the front derailleur down to reduce the gap given it's now on a compact chainring? I can post pics later, but just want to check if that's the most likely issue. Front derailleur setup is one area I always struggled with on mechanical groupsets so I've kinda been reluctant to go near it, but seems from this thread it's more straightforward for Di2 so I'll give it a go if the feeling is that's the cause.

Other cause may be overly long chain, but when changing the chain recently, I followed advice on youtube videos and reduced the length but it's still happening. Since the chain change, I'm having rear derailleur shifting problems also: following the fine tuning instructions helped somewhat, but it's still not as smooth shifting as it was before the chain change, wondering if it takes a while to bed in a new DuraAce 11-speed chain?


I have both Ultegra and DA Di2, if you are talking about both 11 speed versions then the setup is the same on both.

I would start over from scratch as you suggested if you changed cranks and to a 50/34. I am not sure what crank you had before, but the spacing could be a bit different as well. I would just start over, front and rear.

I would agree that the FD needs to come down most likely (without seeing the problem with my own eyes). I have found Di2 (at least for me) likes about 1.5mm above the chainring.

I find FD setup on Di2 much easier than mechanical.

I am not sure what method you used for the chain, but there are methods out there that create a chain that is really too short IMO. This is the ONLY area where I differ from the shimano docs. In the CN-9000 shimano docs they recommend using the Big/Small 90 degree method for sprocket 27t and smaller, and Big/Big for 28T and up. I do not like either of these methods, and find the chain too short, specifically with the Big/Big +2 method. I use the Small/Small method and it always creates the best rear shifting/least amount of noise and clunking in my testing.

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