DT 240S Freehub Issue
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- ultimobici
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Has anyone has the same issue i ma having with a DT 240S free hub running Campag 11 speed?
The cassette wobbles as it turns, so the gears never run smoothly. Initially I though it was an issue with the cassette, but when I swap the cassettes around it only happens on one wheel. When I remove the cassette body to check the hub nothing looks out of whack. Axle is straight, free hub is undamaged.
Any ideas?
The cassette wobbles as it turns, so the gears never run smoothly. Initially I though it was an issue with the cassette, but when I swap the cassettes around it only happens on one wheel. When I remove the cassette body to check the hub nothing looks out of whack. Axle is straight, free hub is undamaged.
Any ideas?
Last edited by ultimobici on Sun Nov 03, 2013 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ryker wrote:Are you swapping the lockring too in your testing?
Yes
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kode54 wrote:check to make sure its seated correctly. the washer or cassette may have some obstruction making it out of true.
Cassette is seated correctly and fits an identical hub with no issues.
I had that with a c4 hub.. it was either
a) the axle was slightly off (not quite straight - will be difficult to actually spot though) or
b) there was a tolerance issue on the free hub to axle interface - likely to be wear on the free hub bearings
c) there was a problem with closing everything down onto the axle - so it doesnt seat right & it ends up floating rather than being where is supposed to be.
Needless to say c4 didn't do much about it.
Haven't got an issue with the 2nr campag 240s I use. Basically maintenance free, zero issue hubs for me.
I'd try swapping out some other bits to try & detect what the issue is.
a) the axle was slightly off (not quite straight - will be difficult to actually spot though) or
b) there was a tolerance issue on the free hub to axle interface - likely to be wear on the free hub bearings
c) there was a problem with closing everything down onto the axle - so it doesnt seat right & it ends up floating rather than being where is supposed to be.
Needless to say c4 didn't do much about it.
Haven't got an issue with the 2nr campag 240s I use. Basically maintenance free, zero issue hubs for me.
I'd try swapping out some other bits to try & detect what the issue is.
...check the lip on the freehub, where large cog seats....sounds like yours might b cracked, yielding the wobble u describe. I just had one of these freehub bodies fail and DT Swiss promptly replaced under warranty...this is a known issue. Apparantly DT Swiss recommends a lower torque value for locking compared to Campagnolo.EM3
Last edited by em3 on Mon Nov 04, 2013 2:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Perhaps the end cap? DT swiss makes several specs. Or it's just not seated right.
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Last edited by Causidicus on Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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What EM3 says is very probable. The Campy 240s freehub had a very thin flange on the inner side where the largest cog sits against. This is because the freehub body is longer than Shimano. Recommended torque on the lockring is 30 N-m, whereas Campy wheelsets specify 50 N-m. I have also managed to crack the freehub inner flange through gorilla torque. Not 100% sure if this would create the wobble, it could but my symptom was excessive freehub drag when the cassette was installed because the cracked freehub was rubbing against the hubshell.
Years ago I had a Mavic FTS-L freehub that wobbled. It was not bad and I just lived with it, then I converted the freehub to Campy and the wobble went away so I assumed the problem was with the freehub seating. Perhaps you can find a local shop that has a spare freehub you could mount to see if that fixes things.
Years ago I had a Mavic FTS-L freehub that wobbled. It was not bad and I just lived with it, then I converted the freehub to Campy and the wobble went away so I assumed the problem was with the freehub seating. Perhaps you can find a local shop that has a spare freehub you could mount to see if that fixes things.
Bigger Gear wrote:What EM3 says is very probable. The Campy 240s freehub had a very thin flange on the inner side where the largest cog sits against. This is because the freehub body is longer than Shimano. Recommended torque on the lockring is 30 N-m, whereas Campy wheelsets specify 50 N-m. I have also managed to crack the freehub inner flange through gorilla torque. Not 100% sure if this would create the wobble, it could but my symptom was excessive freehub drag when the cassette was installed because the cracked freehub was rubbing against the hubshell.
Years ago I had a Mavic FTS-L freehub that wobbled. It was not bad and I just lived with it, then I converted the freehub to Campy and the wobble went away so I assumed the problem was with the freehub seating. Perhaps you can find a local shop that has a spare freehub you could mount to see if that fixes things.
precisely...in my case, first I noticed the wobble, than after a few more weeks, the drag resulted after the crack progressed and the free hub body started to rub against the hub flange. If the failure progresses to the drag do be careful as you are subject to catastrophic failure. Specifically, after a few weeks of troubleshooting the wobble on my free hub and continuing to ride in the meantime, one day while JRA I heard a faint crack sound as i was torquing up a short steep hill, and then my rear mech began to coil up and around (equivalent to what would happen if you broke a rear mech hanger). Given that i was going very slow up the hill I was able to stop before I tore the hanger off my bike.
Lesson of the story...take your cassette off and inspect the flange on your freehub body.
EM3
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Thanks for the input guys.
I have a fresh free hub body on the way from the UK distributor with the suggestion that I return the original for warranty inspection. We'll see later this week I hope.
I have a fresh free hub body on the way from the UK distributor with the suggestion that I return the original for warranty inspection. We'll see later this week I hope.