Removing Campagnolo PF BB30 Cups - EPS

[Miller]

Graeme!!! Calling Graeme... what do the pros do for their installs? I wouldn't be surprised if they just leave the sleeve out altogether and just tape up the wires inside the shell actually and out of the way of the spindle. That's what I might end up doing if I can figure out how to do it so that they stay put and don't come loose.

On the most recent BB86 install I did that was exactly my approach. There was one EPS wire that could potentially fall onto the spindle so I duct taped it to the inside of the BB shell. Anything to avoid using that sleeve.

[Butcher]

But curious, how did you go about "cutting them out". Did you just put a hacksaw blade through the bottom bracket and have at it, until it was weak enough to break and remove without touching the shell?

Yes, but with a dremel. I was pretty frustrated about this ordeal [gluing it in] but it was not just going to jump out of there by looking at it [and I looked at it a lot]. I was pretty happy that I did not even put a scratch in the shell. It was not a simple 5 minute ordeal either. Slow and steady.

[graeme_f_k]

Graeme!!! Calling Graeme... what do the pros do for their installs? I wouldn't be surprised if they just leave the sleeve out altogether and just tape up the wires inside the shell actually and out of the way of the spindle. That's what I might end up doing if I can figure out how to do it so that they stay put and don't come loose.

On the most recent BB86 install I did that was exactly my approach. There was one EPS wire that could potentially fall onto the spindle so I duct taped it to the inside of the BB shell. Anything to avoid using that sleeve.

It depends a lot on the frame as a good many that have an alloy insert in the BB usually have "windows" in that insert and we simply run the EPS cables around the outside of the BB insert.
Specialized et al that have a BB sleeve - the problem doesn't occur as there is no access to the BB but there is a void around the outside of the BB sleeve so that's where we run the cables.

In BBs that are "open" and the danger of the cabes coming into contact with the BB axle, generally we all use the sleeve & cut it out to remove it - it's a pretty simple, if (really only) slightly time consuming process.

Start with the "bar" that runs along the bottom of the BB shell (so should have no cables running under it).
Use a craft knife with a sharp blade to cut that "bar" out. Turn the sleeve (as generally they'll move very easily) until you have the next "bar" at the bottom - repeat until you have one bar left in. Lift that from the bottom with a pair of fine nose pliers and the two "rings" on either end will pull out of the cups, allowing you to extract the sleeve from the frame.

Takes maybe 5 minutes, tops.

FAQs:
Does it destroy the sleeve?
Yes it does.
Is the sleeve available as a spare part?
Yes it is.
Is it an expensive part?
No, most SCs like us have a fair number just lurking around anyway, but the actual RRP on the part is less than €10.00
Why do it this way?
Better than having a 3rd party solution that might & might not work. You don't change an EPS system over from bike to bike on a daily, weekly, monthly or even annual basis (for the most part) so ditching a €10.00 part is not really a problem.
EPS-001 R1137097 BB cable guide for EPS €9.45

[Calnago]

Ok... well then it's official.... cut the damn thing out. Ok... hmmm... I'm gonna test out some Sugru on a piece of carbon steerer and see how well it holds cables in place. Let it cure... run water under the sink at it... tug on it till it comes off to see how well it holds... just sort of test things out beforehand. I was just thinking there had to be some trick that I was missing. But I guess not. I have a little Exacto knife that I think will work perfectly for previously installed sleeves.
Thanks all! Mystery solved.

[Zakalwe]

I’d expect a blob from a tube of regular bathroom silicone would stick better than Sugru, keep it cycle specific and use Mapei if you like

[rotal]

I know this is 8 years later but I was looking for solution for this and so it is safe to assume that someone do it again.
It possible to remove the PF EPS Cups without destroying the spindle protector or cups themselves. At least on BB86, I would think that BB30 would be the same.

Tools used:
Park Tools RT-1 Headset and Bottom Bracket Cup Remover
18 mm deep socket.
Hammer.

Steps:
0. Watch Park Tool’s video: “Bottom Bracket Removal & Installation: Press Fit.”
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... -press-fit
1. Dislocate the spindle protector to one side. Note that it will only dislocate to one of the sides not both. Once it is dislocated there will be 10 mm gap between end of bottom bracket cup and the protector itself.
2. Now insert RT-1 park tool so that it's expanding fingers are pressing against the exposed end of the spindle protector. I did this different from the way Park Tool recommended. I compressed the RT-1's fingers by hand and inserted it in the same direction as I will be hammering. Park Tools shows to insert in the opposite direction until the fingers spring open. This might also work but I did not try.
3. Now important step. You have to insert something into the RT-1, from the open side of the tool, to prevent fingers from compressing inward, and therefore slipping from the end of the spindle protector. I used 18 mm deep socket for this. Park Tool talks about this technique in the video.
4. Finally hummer away, but make sure that you are centered. It took 2 hits for me to remove one side.
5. Removing other side is a standard affair.

Good luck.

[ParisCarbon]

I don't think you're getting in there without cutting the sleeve.. I took this pic so you can see whats going on inside there.. the sleeve is inside of the portion where the removal tool would seat into, so you have no access to it... once the sleeve is out of there can you save the cups... all depends... my cups were getting the occasional "tick" on my SL5.. annoyed the heck out of me so I bought some new ones.. I had loctite 609'd mine in so they took a few more knocks to remove em.. in the end I guess the park tool had slipped once and I dinged the cup.. I didn't reuse them.. so if you are careful you can prob save em... See image... those are the cups I removed..I don't need the sleeve on the SL5 since it has a carbon shell...

I know this is 8 years later but I was looking for solution for this and so it is safe to assume that someone do it again.
It possible to remove the PF EPS Cups without destroying the spindle protector or cups themselves. At least on BB86, I would think that BB30 would be the same.

Tools used:
Park Tools RT-1 Headset and Bottom Bracket Cup Remover
18 mm deep socket.
Hammer.

Steps:
0. Watch Park Tool’s video: “Bottom Bracket Removal & Installation: Press Fit.”
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... -press-fit
1. Dislocate the spindle protector to one side. Note that it will only dislocate to one of the sides not both. Once it is dislocated there will be 10 mm gap between end of bottom bracket cup and the protector itself.
2. Now insert RT-1 park tool so that it's expanding fingers are pressing against the exposed end of the spindle protector. I did this different from the way Park Tool recommended. I compressed the RT-1's fingers by hand and inserted it in the same direction as I will be hammering. Park Tools shows to insert in the opposite direction until the fingers spring open. This might also work but I did not try.
3. Now important step. You have to insert something into the RT-1, from the open side of the tool, to prevent fingers from compressing inward, and therefore slipping from the end of the spindle protector. I used 18 mm deep socket for this. Park Tool talks about this technique in the video.
4. Finally hummer away, but make sure that you are centered. It took 2 hits for me to remove one side.
5. Removing other side is a standard affair.

Good luck.