Removing Campagnolo PF BB30 Cups - EPS

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solarider
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 9:08 pm

by solarider

I have a PF BB30 bottom bracket, running Campagnolo cups.

Since I run EPS, I have the spindle protector installed inside between the 2 cups to protect the wires from the rotating spindle.

I am about to fit the new V2 internal battery and need to remove the cups in order to gain access to the wires to remove the external battery and install the internal battery.

Ordinarily, without the spindle protector fitted, you would just pop the cups out using a splayed headset cup removal tool. However, because of the sleeve, the tool will not splay out to engage the cups.

Any ideas on how to remove the cups by any other method?

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Causidicus
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by Causidicus

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Last edited by Causidicus on Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.

solarider
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by solarider

A puller won't work unfortunately. Same problem as the headset tool.

Namely that the protective spindle sleeve is narrower internally than the cup and there is nothing for the puller to get purchase on.

I might have to destroy the sleeve somehow. Then either method will work. I was trying to avoid that though.

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by Causidicus

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ku_hi
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by ku_hi

Bring up old thread.

I am in same dilemma now.

I am also trying to pop out PF30 cups but dont want to ruin plastic sleeve.

Anyone got solution?
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Valbrona
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by Valbrona

A large bearing puller?

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Dredging up this thread because I don't think it's ever been resolved here. I've never had to atually remove the cups once an EPS frame has been built up (with the spindle sleeve). With threaded cups, or a mechanical pressfit install (without the sleeve), it's easy with the right tools. But for the life of me, I can't see an easy solution to removing the pressfit Campy cups with the EPS sleeve installed. As I'm about to build up a new one, I'm examining the BB area and cups and spindle sleeve to try to ascertain the best way to remove the cups down the road when the time comes to remove them. And that time will come, eventually.

Usually, I'm able to figure something out, but this one kind of has me stumped, so was wondering if anyone has got some good ideas. The bearing puller doesn't work, especially if the cups have been loctited in, as you can't get the tapered puller edge past the bearing lip in the cups. Inserting a cutting disk inside and destroying the plastic sleeve seems like a barbaric way to get the sleeve out of the way and you'd also risk cutting the EPS wiring in the process.

This one's got me stymied I'm afraid. Probalby wont' build it up till next week, so no big hurry. Ideas? Experiences?
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markyboy
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by markyboy

I had this problem as well,What i done is use a very small flat head screwdriver and and lightly tap the edge of the cup from the inside and it should pop out without no damage,once you have one off pull the sleeve out then use your correct tool to remove other cup.
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Miller
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by Miller

Loctited cup won't come out that easily. I think there's no way other than to destroy the plastic sleeve by any means necessary if you want to remove the cups. That sleeve is a pain in the backside if you ever need to do anything like swap an EPS battery.

On that note, it is possible to dislodge the sleeve to one side and then you will have narrow access for manipulating EPS wires. The head of a spoke is a useful tool to catch EPS wires with.

Butcher
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by Butcher

As with most PF30 cups, mine were noisy so I used locktite to install them. Since my cup design is closed, the cables could not touch the spindle anyway. When I had to remove the cups again, I had to cut them out. It took a bit of time and patience, but I was able to get them out without damaging the carbon.

I went with a Praxis conversion and I never looked back.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

@Markyboy: A small flat screwdriver approach would have to use the inside edge of the seal seat, which is a very small lip. The screwdriver approach just tends to push one side askew, then the other, etc. until it eventually, hopefully comes out. I would use this lip with the proper tool if I knew the four "legs" of the proper tool (RT-1) were all firmly square and against it all the way around. But the biggest issue with the screwdriver approach, in an install where a retaining compound was properly used is as @Miller says... I hardly think "light tapping" with a screwdriver on the thin inside lip would dislodge it. And a "big tap", would have a much higher probability of damaging the shell versus a big tap with the proper tool which just punches the whole thing straight out with even force all around the circumference of the cup.

@Miller: I did some measuring with cups and sleeve, and when the cups flanges are exactly 86.5mm apart, as they would be when fully pressed in, the sleeve is fully inserted in the drive side cup (about 5mm), and far enough inside the NDS cup (about 3mm), that I don't know how you would dislodge it. And even if you did, just to get at the wires (can't imagine that task), how would you get it back in place. Destroying the sleeve would seem ok if it would just dissolve away inside, but I can't see where it's pieces would go that wouldn't get in the way of using the proper tool to get the cups out.

@Butcher: Yes, something like a Praxis solution is possible, but I do really like the fit of the Campy cups and also the aesthetics of them. I have never had an issue with them properly installed. But curious, how did you go about "cutting them out". Did you just put a hacksaw blade through the bottom bracket and have at it, until it was weak enough to break and remove without touching the shell?

Thanks for the responses so far guys. But I'm still in search of a more elegant solution going forward, as I'm sure others might be, or will be someday.

Graeme!!! Calling Graeme... what do the pros do for their installs? I wouldn't be surprised if they just leave the sleeve out altogether and just tape up the wires inside the shell actually and out of the way of the spindle. That's what I might end up doing if I can figure out how to do it so that they stay put and don't come loose.
Last edited by Calnago on Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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kode54
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by kode54

i just pulled my Ultra Torque PF30 cups out...but didn't have the plastic sleeve. from the insides, i have something to grab using a Park Tool PF30 remover. if you use this with the center plastic sleeve...it will destroy the center sleeve but will punch out the cups. possible to just buy a replacement sleeve?
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Zakalwe
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by Zakalwe

Calnago wrote:
Sat Jan 20, 2018 8:17 pm
I wouldn't be surprised if they just leave the sleeve out altogether and just tape up the wires inside the shell actually and out of the way of the spindle. That's what I might end up doing if I can figure out how to do it so that they stay put and don't come loose.
I can’t help with the sleeve removal unfortunately, but for sticking the cables somewhere out of the way a blog of silicone sealant should do the trick permanently and be more or less removable if required

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Yes, that’s kinda what I’m thinking too @Zakalwe. If I don’t come up with a good solution for removing the sleeve and/or removing the cups down the road that’s exactly the sort of route I’m thinking of going down. Sugru to the rescue!
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markyboy
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by markyboy

Whatever you do good luck its a pain in the ass that sleeve
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