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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:54 pm
Posts: 315
stella-azzurra wrote:
Yes as explained in the previous post as you might not have read yet since I just replied.


Gotcha. I'm not here to discount your experiences; your recommendations does not match mine.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:03 am
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Location: nyc
Interesting

So then would an aunt-seize with magnesium or zinc be the best overall? What about zinc-oxide paste such as found in many common sunblocks, would that work as well?

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Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:49 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:15 pm 
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Location: New York
On the chart below the metals are arranged from the least noble to the most noble.
The closer the metals are to each other on the chart the less corrosion will occur to the
least noble of the two. To to prevent rust or galvanic reaction to occur you coat them
with something that will not cause this to happen.
Most greases will prevent this from happening provided you maintain it greased.

Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte.

Oxidation of metals in reaction with an oxidant such as oxygen. Rusting, the formation of iron oxides, is a well-known example of electrochemical corrosion. This type of damage typically produces oxide(s) or salt(s) of the original metal.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:20 pm 
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Location: nyc
Wow 0 thanks for this.

So then is it safe to conclude a compound with the lowest noble-scale additive we can find would be the best all-around? Im still confused as to whether there is one all-around (like grease?) that is safe for everything or if we need to match metals and "nobilities" s per this chart.

thanks though

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: it's raining, it must be uk
if conditions are benign, grease alone will do the job

if there's moisture, especially salt water (winter roads, coastal rides), and a bit of mechanical abrasion likely, an anti-seize will be safer

on the handy chart above, the difference between the numbers at the top gives an indication of how likely two metals are to have a problem, it still depends on environment though, assuming harsh conditions it's a rule of thumb that you want less than 0.15v between the two, if the difference is bigger, simplest way is to use an anti-seize, loaded with a metal with a lower number

zinc loaded is fine for al/ti/steel, no need for more than one anti-seize (unless you have mg frame, then you just keep it dry!)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:46 pm 
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Best Practices:
- For carbon where you don't want slippage with less torque having to be applied like seatposts, stems, bars use carbon paste: FSA, FinishLine, Tacx, doesn't matter.
- For pressfit metal to metal surfaces on bikes, a copper based antiseize like park sells works well. Exception is pressfit bottom brackets where a Loctite product like 609 "may" be necessary if creaking is an issue, but then, when isn't it with a pressfit bottom bracket.
- For standard BSA type threaded bottom brackets, I find the copper based anti seize compound works really well, outlasts grease of any kind, with the only downside is that it really is more difficult to get off things once it's on. I lather it in the bottom bracket threads and cup threads and it works really well. Grease is fine too, pick you favorite, but it should be checked every now and then, as everything should.
- For bb spindles, quick release skewers etc., I will give a light coat of grease just to prevent oxidation etc.
- Keep in mind, that properly maintained, grease has worked for a long time. I do use some Lotcite products for certain applications like a little dab of purple (222) on waterbottle bolts so that they don't come loose without excessive tightening of those bolts, which I'm always wary of overtightening. This includes the threads on chainring bolts. Regarding chainrings, I'll smear a super light coat of grease on any mating surfaces of the chainrings to crankarm, regardless of what they are made of (carbon, alloy, etc) to ensure that no creaking comes from this area.

That's about it. Not rocket science. Use your best practices "thinking cap" for whatever situation you're working on and that will probably be your best solution

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:38 pm 
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Location: nyc
So carbon paste doubles as anti-seize? I've heard mixed opinions on this.

And no need for specific Ti-Ti (as opposed to generalized "anti-seize") compound?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:51 pm
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I'm just trying to get a clear answer here:

What compounds should I use for a carbon seatpost in an aluminum frame?

Carbon paste? Loctite? Grease? There was a thread specifically for this application, but it was deleted before the argument could be settled... :(

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Location: New York
You could do one of three things:

1. Nothing. Just torque appropriately.
2. Use Carbon paste
3. Use one layer of scotch tape around the seat post.

I usually go with option 1. Option 3 is cheaper than option 2.

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I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree


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