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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:44 pm
Posts: 113
Sorry, it was 74cm. And i've lowered by 0.5cm to my ideal height which is 73.5cm, after the pictures taken.
Yes, reach is long for me with 56 frame/110mm stem
GT56 wrote:
Boralb wrote:
Hi,

I ride a 56 cannondale ss evo but plan to downsize my frame to a 54.
I'm 181cm tall with a 83cm inseam. bb to saddle is 73.5cm.
My current 56 frame has a 15.5cm headtube, where the 54 size has 14cm.
I only use the 25mm supersix conical spacer under my -12deg/110mm stem(115mm actual)
To be able to simulate the drop of a 54 frame by using the same conical spacer again, i lowered the stem 1.5cm and took some pictures.
What do you think about my downsize choice?
Note:Drop will be about same, and reach will be 1.5cm closer with a 54 frame, different from the pictured 56 frameset
When looking at the pictures, i also find out that, i have to lower my seatpost about 0.5cm(last picture) :mrgreen:



Image


it looks like you sit too high, but by more than 0,5 cm

can you verify the 73,5 bb axle to top of saddle (measured along the seat tube), it looks quite a bit more

i have a 54 with 2 cms less saddle height, but the saddle sits quite a bit closer to the top tube than yours

i am considering going to a 52


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:40 am
Posts: 414
Location: Switzerland
as is so often the case, there's two sizes of cannondale for each rider

if i were you i'd go for the 54

Boralb wrote:
Sorry, it was 74cm. And i've lowered by 0.5cm to my ideal height which is 73.5cm, after the pictures taken.
Yes, reach is long for me with 56 frame/110mm stem
GT56 wrote:
Boralb wrote:
Hi,

I ride a 56 cannondale ss evo but plan to downsize my frame to a 54.
I'm 181cm tall with a 83cm inseam. bb to saddle is 73.5cm.
My current 56 frame has a 15.5cm headtube, where the 54 size has 14cm.
I only use the 25mm supersix conical spacer under my -12deg/110mm stem(115mm actual)
To be able to simulate the drop of a 54 frame by using the same conical spacer again, i lowered the stem 1.5cm and took some pictures.
What do you think about my downsize choice?
Note:Drop will be about same, and reach will be 1.5cm closer with a 54 frame, different from the pictured 56 frameset
When looking at the pictures, i also find out that, i have to lower my seatpost about 0.5cm(last picture) :mrgreen:





it looks like you sit too high, but by more than 0,5 cm

can you verify the 73,5 bb axle to top of saddle (measured along the seat tube), it looks quite a bit more

i have a 54 with 2 cms less saddle height, but the saddle sits quite a bit closer to the top tube than yours

i am considering going to a 52


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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:39 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:45 am
Posts: 109
Location: US
So the schedule over the next couple of years means that racing will be limited to non-existent. It also means more travel. With this in mind, I'm going to be selling off my TT frame and buying a second road frame to travel with. This is where the choice comes in. I currently have a Ridley Noah which I love riding. It's super stiff, handling is amazing (just rails), fits me perfectly, and reasonable weight. The downside is that the ISP makes it harder to travel with and I would like something that has more compliance so when I'm traveling and riding worse roads (I have good roads here) or dirt roads it doesn't beat me up.

So what I want:
-Good handling (want to descend with confidence)
-Reasonable stiffness (I like a bike that springs forward)
-Electronic capable (run Di2)
-Prefer BB30 (compatibility my BB30 Quarq without adaptors)

Initial choices: (all Ridley's due to a great team deals and I know the geo works on their road bikes)
-Helium SL (most expense and lightest, max 25c tire, concerned about how it would handle rides on rougher/cobbled areas)
-Fenix (cheapest and heaviest, also easiest to replace if damaged by TSA, max 25c tire, supposed to be a nice combination of stiffness with compliance)
-X-Night disc (geo is slightly different, would have to have separate wheels for that bike, can run fat tires so opens up even more terrain, not sure how the geo would work as primarily a road bike. Might race it occasionally but prefer racing cross SS.)

Any thoughts?

_________________
Ridley Noah FAST = 6.86 kg
Ridley Fenix = 6.74 kg
Raligh HiLife = 7.46 kg
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=104672


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 402
Location: USA
If I move up a frame in size and the reach numbers are 58cm/ reach 40.6 and a 60 cm/ reach 40.9, what would I change in stem length in the 60. The frame is a Trek Madone with a H1 headtube. They have 2 seat posts available... one with a 23mm setback and the other with a 5mm setback. Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:40 am
Posts: 414
Location: Switzerland
upside wrote:
If I move up a frame in size and the reach numbers are 58cm/ reach 40.6 and a 60 cm/ reach 40.9, what would I change in stem length in the 60. The frame is a Trek Madone with a H1 headtube. They have 2 seat posts available... one with a 23mm setback and the other with a 5mm setback. Thanks


re the seatposts

how much setback (in cm) do you have on your 58 cm bike ? (what make / model is it btw ?)

what saddle on the existing bike, will you keep the same on the new one ?

and then, do you want to keep all contact points in the same place ?

the difference in reach is negliable


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 402
Location: USA
My current set-up is a 2014 Trek Madone 7 Series H1. I have a 23mm set back seat mast... tip of saddle to BB ctr is 7cm. My saddle is a Fizik Aliante'. I would like to keep the contact points all the same. The reasoning (mine) in moving to the 60 is a taller headtube.
Thanks for your help. I use to ride an 58 Cannondale Evo with a 110 mm stem and never had any issues. The Trek has a lower headtube (16 vs 18), so that is what I am trying to replicate.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 28, 2013 11:08 pm
Posts: 6
Where is an app that overlays different frames on top of each other to compare? I remember seeing screenshots but google comes up with nothing.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2012 2:11 pm
Posts: 360
Location: Tucson, AZ
SkippyMcJimmelstein wrote:
Where is an app that overlays different frames on top of each other to compare? I remember seeing screenshots but google comes up with nothing.


Search for "bike comparator". There's a google doc where you can do it online, or you can download the spreadsheet itself.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:44 am
Posts: 26
Hi all,

Looking to buy a 2014 Lynskey Helix Di2 and hopefully to mate up with 6870.

Since there is no dealer around here to deals with Ti bikes hence me asking for help here.

What size of the frame would be best for me? Please put down why you suggest that as I don't know much but willing to learn.

Currently riding a Cannondale Caad10 size 52.

Here is its geometry link but you need to click on the Geometry bottom.

http://www.cannondale.com/can/catalog/p ... egory/916/

Here is the Helix one but you need to click on the Geometry bottom as well.

https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/store/helix-di2.html

Thank you for the help in advance.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 8:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:40 am
Posts: 414
Location: Switzerland
Y26 wrote:
Hi all,

Looking to buy a 2014 Lynskey Helix Di2 and hopefully to mate up with 6870.

Since there is no dealer around here to deals with Ti bikes hence me asking for help here.

What size of the frame would be best for me? Please put down why you suggest that as I don't know much but willing to learn.

Currently riding a Cannondale Caad10 size 52.

Here is its geometry link but you need to click on the Geometry bottom.

http://www.cannondale.com/can/catalog/p ... egory/916/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is the Helix one but you need to click on the Geometry bottom as well.

https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/store/helix-di2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Thank you for the help in advance.


do you want to replicate the position of the contact points as on the cannondale ?

saddle height / setback

saddle tip to centre of handlebar

handlebar drop


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 11:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:18 am
Posts: 186
Y26 wrote:
Hi all,

Looking to buy a 2014 Lynskey Helix Di2 and hopefully to mate up with 6870.

Since there is no dealer around here to deals with Ti bikes hence me asking for help here.

What size of the frame would be best for me? Please put down why you suggest that as I don't know much but willing to learn.

Currently riding a Cannondale Caad10 size 52.

Here is its geometry link but you need to click on the Geometry bottom.

http://www.cannondale.com/can/catalog/p ... egory/916/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is the Helix one but you need to click on the Geometry bottom as well.

https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/store/helix-di2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thank you for the help in advance.


The M will be the closest to the 52 Cannondale overall. Biggest difference is in head tube length and stack, the Helix will be much taller in front (by nearly 3cm). So if you have a bunch of spacers under the stem now, or an up-angled stem, maybe that's fine. But if you're already slammed on the Cannondale, then the M Helix will be too tall.

The S Helix only has a 1cm shorter top tube (so you could just run a 1cm longer stem), but stack is closer to the Cannondale. Only 1.3cm taller. Even if you're slammed with a 84' stem now, that's the kind of difference you can make up with a 73' stem.

All this assumes you're happy with your position on the 52 Cannondale, of course. For all I know it's completely wrong for you, and you should be looking for a different sized frame.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:34 am
Posts: 98
GT56 wrote:
Boralb wrote:
Hi,

I ride a 56 cannondale ss evo but plan to downsize my frame to a 54.
I'm 181cm tall with a 83cm inseam. bb to saddle is 73.5cm.
My current 56 frame has a 15.5cm headtube, where the 54 size has 14cm.
I only use the 25mm supersix conical spacer under my -12deg/110mm stem(115mm actual)
To be able to simulate the drop of a 54 frame by using the same conical spacer again, i lowered the stem 1.5cm and took some pictures.
What do you think about my downsize choice?
Note:Drop will be about same, and reach will be 1.5cm closer with a 54 frame, different from the pictured 56 frameset
When looking at the pictures, i also find out that, i have to lower my seatpost about 0.5cm(last picture) :mrgreen:



Image


it looks like you sit too high, but by more than 0,5 cm

can you verify the 73,5 bb axle to top of saddle (measured along the seat tube), it looks quite a bit more

i have a 54 with 2 cms less saddle height, but the saddle sits quite a bit closer to the top tube than yours

i am considering going to a 52

Agreed. You are too high. Your heel should be parallel to the ground when at the lowest point of travel. For general sport road riding/stage type racing, a good test is to pedal backwards with your heels on the pedals -- at the lowest point of travel, you should have a slightly bent knee (if fitting for crits or sprint type events, leg should be straight, but not locked in this position). When you clip back in as normal you will have the proper bend you need.

Look for an old CONI manual online and go through the fitting process in the book; in my experience it is the only one that works in almost all cases. For a modern bike, size down by 1 to 2 cms to account for the fact that modern hoods on compact bars are level with the horizontal portion of the bar (old bars were different). For someone your height (same as me), a 55-56 C-T (or 52 sloping) should be spot on for a modern bike.


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 Post subject: New Bike decisions??
PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:22 am
Posts: 6
Hi guys, Im after a new steed and i have £3500 to spend!

Im unsure weather or not to go with either the Canyon CF SLX 8.0 or the Cube Litening Super HPC SL ??
Im sure theres other options but these two are the ones that have cought my eye! Not sure how either ride and there no way of me getting to try these either as the bike shop that sells the Cube is Miles away! ;/

The Cube is 6.2kg and the Canyon 6.55kg



Im also unsure on the Fulcum Aero 44 wheels? ive never heard of them and cant seem to find any info on them either with regards to weight and how they ride etc? How much they cost and how much they weigh???



Hopefully someone will be able to help! ;-)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 23, 2007 11:22 am
Posts: 3657
Location: Leg hurty
Pull up the geometry charts and choose the one that'll fit you the best.
Compare with your current ride and buy based on fit, not on weight or gizmo tech stuff.
I'm sure they are both rather more than adequate for your needs from a performance perspective. :wink:
As for the wheels, just don't do it would be my advice......get some handbuilts.

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Pedalling Law Student.


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Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:44 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:04 am
Posts: 2344
Location: Mississippi
What is your "old steed"?? What type of riding do you do? What's your weight?

Second Legs' comment on the wheels....I have bought/ridden plenty and have settled on handbuilts from here forward.

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Cervelo R3

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=125962


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