Just to see if anyone else has had this, the cranks make an annoying tick / click every rotation when under load, have swapped bb's and made sure the bb threads are clean and has made no difference. It does go away when you ride in the rain, so maybe that's the solution!
Any ideas or anyone had /have the same issue?
It's on a Carbon frame BTW.
Irritating clicking noise on Rotor 3d cranks
Moderator: robbosmans
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Could it be a stiff link in the chain? Or a chain lock? I had a really annoying clicking sound that turned out to be a Wipperman chain lock... switched to KMC master link and the sound went away.
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin
A chain lock? Is that when you get a sudden 'jolt' forward in the drive train? If so, I do occasionally get that, not sure how to diagnose that though, it doesn't happen when just turning the crank off the bike.
No Plinky, regular extralight rings.
Cheers Grid, just had a similar reply on another forum from another Rotor user. Pretty crap isn't it. My luck with cranks is p*ss poor! I had an Easton EC90 before this, less said about it the better!
Rick - nope it's english 68mm
Rick - nope it's english 68mm
Also, a correction, I'm on stronglight chainrings too.
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stella-azzurra
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Maybe you can isolate the problem this way:
1. Check to see if the derailleur is hitting th crank arm. This would depend on the gear you are in. Does it happen in every gear?
2 .Are you sure it's the crank and not the pedal doing this? If you have a different set of pedals try a different set.
3. Ensure that the chain links are not binding.
4. Is it the BB? Try a different BB.
5. Are the chain ring bolts torqued correctly?
1. Check to see if the derailleur is hitting th crank arm. This would depend on the gear you are in. Does it happen in every gear?
2 .Are you sure it's the crank and not the pedal doing this? If you have a different set of pedals try a different set.
3. Ensure that the chain links are not binding.
4. Is it the BB? Try a different BB.
5. Are the chain ring bolts torqued correctly?
I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree
If its jolting forward its likely a stiff link and/or a bent hanger.
Rick wrote:BB30 ?
If so, read my comments in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=82498&p=723397&hilit=BB30#p723397
Interested in this, as my bike clicks when I am out of the saddle peddaling, it clicks when my right crank arm is going forward (from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock) and stops when I sit back down.
I have taken apart and cleaned and regreased everything and then put back together and it's still there, it's not BB30 and I am using a Campag 10 speed UT carbon chainset with campag BB cups, but AM using the wave washer, did you take yours out and it stopped?
Sorry for the hijax but the click is driving me crazy.
+1 for another clicker, albeit occasionally, on Rotor 3D's with Q Rings. A little annoying as it's not all the time. Seems worst when starting out on a ride then quietens down and then only now and then after that. I've put it down to 'settling in' as I've only put 600-odd miles on them. going to take them down and regrease everything this weekend and see if that helps.
I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread.
I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread.
Schnice 
Did anyone try using different chain ring bolts for illusive clicks?
I've had annoying clicks on cranks from alu bolts in the past.
You can try swapping out to heavier bolts or try adding chain ring bolt washers to change the interface between metal surfaces.
If everything is 100% clean and there is no question of debris or dirt allowing play between rings / spider faces, try adding copper slip very lightly on the contact point between c/ring & spider to address any contact point interface which might be causing the noise.
Usual vouch for these clicks is whether the chain & chain rings are new or not... if the are not new or you have a mis-match of wear you may get some clicks coming from the chain as it engages / disengages on the chain ring teeth unevenly.. generally wet chain lube helps to iron out chain / chainring interface noise better than dry lube will as well.
I've had annoying clicks on cranks from alu bolts in the past.
You can try swapping out to heavier bolts or try adding chain ring bolt washers to change the interface between metal surfaces.
If everything is 100% clean and there is no question of debris or dirt allowing play between rings / spider faces, try adding copper slip very lightly on the contact point between c/ring & spider to address any contact point interface which might be causing the noise.
Usual vouch for these clicks is whether the chain & chain rings are new or not... if the are not new or you have a mis-match of wear you may get some clicks coming from the chain as it engages / disengages on the chain ring teeth unevenly.. generally wet chain lube helps to iron out chain / chainring interface noise better than dry lube will as well.
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but AM using the wave washer, did you take yours out and it stopped?
Yes, it has stopped and stayed gone. But I substituted enough flat washers to take up any left over space on the spindle, as described in the linked thread. IMO a wave washer is just a silly idea. But what do I know ? (I am a merchanical engineer, so maybe that gives me some credibility)
