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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 11:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 7:47 pm
Posts: 137
As I slowly start to piece together my new bike I have to wonder about part selections. Undoubtedly the best way to choose would be to try before you buy, but with so many choices and little selection at the local LBS's that proves to be nearly impossible. I've settled on a 3T cockpit; Ergonova thanks to Chainlove, ARX2 Team in 90mm (same size as my current bike) and a not yet determined seat post. Most likely a 25mil set back late model Dorico Team (last years, decent deal on the web). Again, going with a setback version because that is what is on my current bike. Never had a bike fit... so buying what i know. New frame has an inch longer ETT, which I like, so I'm keeping all the component lengths the same, as I feel my current bike could be pushed out a bit. Right, enough rambling, let's get to the point. Saddle. Got to be one of the most important parts on a bike, with so many choices out there, how are we suppose to choose? Take a gamble and buy based on weight and price? I've being eyeing Fizik, however, never been on anything but my unknown SelleItalia.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:13 pm 
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Location: Aloha, Oregon
What are you using on your other bike, what did you like about it and what did you not like about it. I think most of us have been through this before and made several saddle choices that have not worked out. What some love some do not.

I personally moved to the Specialized Romin EVO pro with Carbon rails and had the best success for my sit bones. Personally I gave away a Fizik to one of my riding buddies, it just did not work for me at all.

I know that this does not exactly answer your question, however it is a tough one. Narrow down the choices, based on what you have.

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Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:13 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:03 am
Posts: 343
Location: San Diego California
Specialized has (arguably) a system that will help get you a starting point. They also have an extremely wide selection of saddles. You need a Specialized dealer that can either provide test saddles or a swap option. Buying,trying,selling cycle will be long and frustrating.

It's been stated plenty of times that only you can ultimately decide what works for you. Here's a few reasons why:
1) Perch bone width. The basis for the 3 widths that Specialized and other offer
2) Saddle to Bar drop. Riding with a 45 degree hip angle isn't the same as a 0-15 degree angle. The areas being pressured on the saddle are very different. The bigger the hip angle, the more weight that is on the rear portion of the saddle and vice versa.
3) Power. Stronger riders have reduced weight on the saddle. Think of how it feels when you're spinning along in the small ring with little force compared to being in the big ring pushing for all you're worth. The weight on the saddle is different.
4) Terrain. Flat terrain doesn't let you stand or climb thus the position on the saddle is much more static. Rolling courses allow you to stand and power climb some rollers. Climbing allows you to move further back on the saddle, hand position can vary (tops or hoods) plus you can stand and climb for short sections as you want.
5) Saddle shapes. Besides the fundamental width, the amount of suspension (vertical compliance), flat or dipped (side view), flat or rounded (end view), padding, saddle cover material, and all the nuances between different models.

All food for thought.

P.S. Note to oreoboreo. I lived in Hillsboro in the 70's, went to Hilhi. Small world.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
The bike's seat tube angle will determine if you need a setback post. If the new frame has a slacker seat tube you may not want the setback.

Saddles have different rail lengths and positions, so you have to take that into consideration when buying the post.

Look at the shape of your current saddle and think about what does and does not work for you. For example I find that saddles with a rounded profile (side to side) puts too much pressure on the nerves in the center resulting in numbness. A cutout and flatter profile works for me.

I did the Specialized butt-o-meter and it had me on a 143 but I found that is too wide for road riding where a 130 works better. Leaning over narrows the sit bones. On my mtb where I am more upright, 143 is good.

I went through 4 or 5 saddles over about 5 years until I found the Specialized toupe which is the best for me.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 3:09 pm 
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Location: Aloha, Oregon
Yes it is, Nice post. Were you fast when you lived in Hillsboro? lol. Off to ride Balk Peak in an hour.

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2011 Scott Addict R1 DA 7900 Matt black

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 3:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:51 pm
Posts: 19
I'm on the hunt for a better saddle. I've demoed a few locally. Unfortunately, the best demo saddle selection is an hour away from my home, which would make it a 4 hour round trip to pick up a saddle (plus another 4 to return it) from my college town. Yikes.

I'd hunt used saddles if you don't mind. I purchased a used Fizik Antares for cheap to get a better demo on it. If it doesn't work, it'll go back up on Ebay and the money will go to another used saddle. I just try out the metal rail versions and then try to find the carbon rail versions on Ebay. I got to demo a Specialized Romin 143 for a few miles. I'm currently in the hunt for one of those, unfortunately, so is everyone else.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:54 pm
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THSdrummer wrote:
Unfortunately, the best demo saddle selection is an hour away from my home, which would make it a 4 hour round trip to pick up a saddle (plus another 4 to return it) from my college town. Yikes.
Look up some good routes in the area of the bike shop that offers demo saddles, and do the ride out there.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:30 pm
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I had a Dorico Team seatpost. They are OK, but much heavier than some sites advertize (~ 235 actual) and a bit fifddly to adjust and have hold position.
It seems like the Thomson Masterpiece Setback is the clear winner on light, solid seatposts. (My opinion) It is 16mm setback, which was enough for my needs.
Ritchey Superlogic is also fantastic, but a lot more money.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:47 am
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Are you happy with the saddle on your current/"old" bike? If you are, I see no reason to switch. When I built up my new bike I went around and tried like 8 different saddles, was never able to find comfort like my original saddle. Switched back to that (picked it up for $20 on ebay or something) and been happy ever since. Don't fix what ain't broke, I say!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:50 pm 
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Location: San Francisco Peninsula
Always found the saddle thing curious. I've probably had over a dozen saddles on various bikes in the last seven years and they were all great. Guess I'm not sensitive to these things.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:48 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Sella Italia ID match might be an idea. A bit like the spec system.

For me a there are three saddle I love I am sticking to those.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:07 pm 
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My current bike has a seat tube angle of 74.5(older Wilier Mortirolo) with what I believe to be a 25mm set back seat post. While the new frame has a seat tube angle of 73.8. At least, that is what a google searched turned up... Is that difference in angle enough to warrant a zero set back? Only reason I was looking into 3T was to maintain consistency in the cockpit.

As far as the current seat, I'm not actually sure what model it is. I think it might be a Selle Italia Trans Am. I make-shift measured it, and its around 135mm. I am really liking the idea of these Specialized seats. Decent weight and much better priced then a comparable Fizik... Decisions, decisions. Keeping the current seat is a possibility, but I'd like to go lighter on the new bike. Keep this one on the current ride for when my old bike is used.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:07 pm 
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to each his/her own, I guess! My rear's comfort is something I don't want to be sacrificing for the sake of a 100g! :)
I really wish the 80g chinese carbon saddle I had could have worked for me but felt more like sitting on small knives than a saddle. Ended up with a 250g saddle instead...


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
seanblurr wrote:
My current bike has a seat tube angle of 74.5(older Wilier Mortirolo) with what I believe to be a 25mm set back seat post. While the new frame has a seat tube angle of 73.8. At least, that is what a google searched turned up... Is that difference in angle enough to warrant a zero set back?


At a saddle height of 780mm that's about 9mm difference. To get in the same position on the new bike your saddle will be 9mm farther forward on the post.


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Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:47 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 7:47 pm
Posts: 137
eric wrote:
seanblurr wrote:
My current bike has a seat tube angle of 74.5(older Wilier Mortirolo) with what I believe to be a 25mm set back seat post. While the new frame has a seat tube angle of 73.8. At least, that is what a google searched turned up... Is that difference in angle enough to warrant a zero set back?


At a saddle height of 780mm that's about 9mm difference. To get in the same position on the new bike your saddle will be 9mm farther forward on the post.


Thanks. :beerchug:

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