ZIPP 88/188 HUBS Inconsistently Spinning Fast/Resistant
Moderator: robbosmans
Hello
I know they are not anyone's favorite hubs... but I have found them to be pretty smooth overall once they got set up correctly.
But recently (this past year or so, they are a silver possibly 2011 model) I have had the sensation that some days they spin like there's no tomorrow (genuinely super-fast and so nice) and other times like theres a but of resistance or drag. Nothings been don to them, wen I check they are tight and adjusted where they should be, they are clean and tight, aligned, gears are all fine too. So whats the deal? Anyone experience this or have suggestions? Why is it they seem to be slightly "reluctant" or resistant, muddy at times like spinning into the wind and yet at others so super slippery and addictively fast? Is it possible or is it all in my head??
thanks
I know they are not anyone's favorite hubs... but I have found them to be pretty smooth overall once they got set up correctly.
But recently (this past year or so, they are a silver possibly 2011 model) I have had the sensation that some days they spin like there's no tomorrow (genuinely super-fast and so nice) and other times like theres a but of resistance or drag. Nothings been don to them, wen I check they are tight and adjusted where they should be, they are clean and tight, aligned, gears are all fine too. So whats the deal? Anyone experience this or have suggestions? Why is it they seem to be slightly "reluctant" or resistant, muddy at times like spinning into the wind and yet at others so super slippery and addictively fast? Is it possible or is it all in my head??
thanks
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
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Hmm, interesting idea, that could be a factor though I am not opening or altering it much, wheel is generally set in place and it seem to be well clamped but not over-tight, just 2 finger tight and the inconsistency seems to happen regardless, though I will keep that in mind. Thanks
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
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- Posts: 938
- Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
The 88 is a very good hub. It is the 188 that is garbage. Of course, the latest revision and lacing looks like they finally figured out what even the layman has known.
The preload is important along with skewer tightening. Too much will add preload to the bearing and drag.
Zipp has info on the proper preload and skewer tightening method for their hubs. Follow that.
Extreme measure, swap the rear hub and replace it with something better and 2x both sides. The rims are good and the front that is OK IMO. It is just that lousy 188 that needs attention.
The preload is important along with skewer tightening. Too much will add preload to the bearing and drag.
Zipp has info on the proper preload and skewer tightening method for their hubs. Follow that.
Extreme measure, swap the rear hub and replace it with something better and 2x both sides. The rims are good and the front that is OK IMO. It is just that lousy 188 that needs attention.
Yeah, I hear that,
But its just the inconsistency i don't understand, one minute its spinning like there's no tomorrow and then anther time it feels resistant -- but nothing's changed in terms of skewers, tension etc, and then another tie (on the same ride) it will start spinning totally freely again and I am reminded how fast it can spin and then who knows...another time it will feel slow again. But I am not changing anything in terms of skewer tension, preload tension etc. Thats the weird part.
I am thinking of inquiring whether my rims can be re-hubed to the new v9's and what Zip would charge if so. I wonder if the older rims (2011 FC) are holed properly for these new hubs... anyone know yet?
But its just the inconsistency i don't understand, one minute its spinning like there's no tomorrow and then anther time it feels resistant -- but nothing's changed in terms of skewers, tension etc, and then another tie (on the same ride) it will start spinning totally freely again and I am reminded how fast it can spin and then who knows...another time it will feel slow again. But I am not changing anything in terms of skewer tension, preload tension etc. Thats the weird part.
I am thinking of inquiring whether my rims can be re-hubed to the new v9's and what Zip would charge if so. I wonder if the older rims (2011 FC) are holed properly for these new hubs... anyone know yet?
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
Nope... decent space between pads though I do check constantly, --almost maniacally to be honest. Just feels like a muddy, murky resistance which makes pedaling either a bit harder or less results for same efforts and then other times they spin like they should and same effort (same course, often same day) results in higher speed both under pedaling and coasting. Sometimes I think I must be crazy but I don't think I am.
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
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- Posts: 938
- Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
Have you identified if it is the front/rear?
Could be some bearing damage. Only way to know is pull the bearings and replace them , clean/service the hub. Guessing game otherwise if the pre-load/skewer is properly set.
I believe Zipp claims if you take all the slack out of the pre-load, it adds like 5gms of drag right at that point compared to some wiggle as an FYI. It isn't a crazy amount of added drag unless you torque the pre-load down, which why would you do that anyway?
Rims are fine. Zipp hasn't changed anything about them. You can put any good hub on them, Achemy, Extralite, CK, White etc...
Fairwheel, Wheelbuilder etc..will rebuild one for you for a nominal build cost, and of course the cost of hub/spokes/nipples...plus zipp requires some extra labor/effort, because they put washers in the rims/holes for each spoke/nipple...wheel building time issue they don't encounter normally.
Good opportunity to swap to something like the new Alchemy UL Rear that is 11sp. Run a couple of spacers if you only have 10sp...but ready to upgrade whenever with no hassles.
Could be some bearing damage. Only way to know is pull the bearings and replace them , clean/service the hub. Guessing game otherwise if the pre-load/skewer is properly set.
I believe Zipp claims if you take all the slack out of the pre-load, it adds like 5gms of drag right at that point compared to some wiggle as an FYI. It isn't a crazy amount of added drag unless you torque the pre-load down, which why would you do that anyway?
Rims are fine. Zipp hasn't changed anything about them. You can put any good hub on them, Achemy, Extralite, CK, White etc...
Fairwheel, Wheelbuilder etc..will rebuild one for you for a nominal build cost, and of course the cost of hub/spokes/nipples...plus zipp requires some extra labor/effort, because they put washers in the rims/holes for each spoke/nipple...wheel building time issue they don't encounter normally.
Good opportunity to swap to something like the new Alchemy UL Rear that is 11sp. Run a couple of spacers if you only have 10sp...but ready to upgrade whenever with no hassles.
Last edited by Zigmeister on Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
HMMMM ) Tempting advice indeed!! Yeah Alchemy is lovely I have the older model on my other bike with Edge 45's, its been nothing but perfect and elegant. Maybe that's ultimately the way to go....
I was also looking the pulley wheels in the rear der. but they seem to spin fine.
Its the inconsistency that gets me. If it was a consistent resistance it would make so much more sense that something is misaligned or badly set, dirty, etc.
I was also looking the pulley wheels in the rear der. but they seem to spin fine.
Its the inconsistency that gets me. If it was a consistent resistance it would make so much more sense that something is misaligned or badly set, dirty, etc.
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
You're over thinking it. Just replace the bearings with some decent 61803 steel bearings and see what happens. Unless you have $500+ you really want to get rid of...
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