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Ugly?
Yep 27%  27%  [ 12 ]
Nope 73%  73%  [ 32 ]
Total votes : 44
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:34 pm 
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Hello everyone.

I am about to buy a new endurance road bike, and quite liked the Orbea Avant. Yesterday I borrowed my friends bike, and had a long ride, and really liked it. But I have a fitting problem.
I have longer arms than normal, and bike has a long head tube, since it is an endurance frame.

55 is too high for me, and 53 is a bit short at seat tube area.
Image

Here is a photo of the bike, so I want to know what you guys think. If saddle looks too high, or it is OK?

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Last edited by ToffieBoi on Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
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Location: Toronto
Compact frames do this to tall guys with long legs. That's one reason I generally prefer traditional frames. But it's not horrible IMO.

ps. I missed the "ugly?" and hit "yes" meaning OK per the last sentence. Sorry.

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Last edited by bikerjulio on Sun Dec 21, 2014 2:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 2:32 pm 
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Location: Georgia
Agree with biker julio. Looks good, IMO. Now, if there were 6cm of spacers under a 14cm flipped stem with that saddle height I'd contend you were on wrong size.

In other words, I think it looks smokin hot. But I'm a tall guy with long legs so ,,,,,, :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Location: it's raining, it must be uk
level the bars and it'll be ok :)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 3:04 pm 
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sungod wrote:
level the bars and it'll be ok :)


Please ignore the bars :)
It was a quick stem change before the ride, so I could fit the frame.

If I buy the frame, build will be with 2015 Chorus, 40mm carbon clinchers as you see on the photos, better stem, better post and seat, and properly wrapped handlebar tapes :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 4:22 pm 
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
What's important is how you look while riding the bike (i.e. the fit), not how the bike looks by itself.

A long post means a bit more comfort as the post will flex on bumps. For that reason I prefer sloping top tube frames.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:41 pm 
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What size is this one?
Are you saying that you need the bars to be lower than pictured?
Why an endurance bike if you don't need the taller bar position?
I think the pictured bike looks fine if that is the position that you need.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:33 pm 
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@eric
You are right. But still, I don't want to ride, if I don't like her look :)
That's why, its important for me.

@boots2000
This is the position I need. Maybe 1cm longer stem. But not lower.
Frame is 53cm. Has 55cm toptube. The bigger size is 55, but top tube is 56 there. And reach is only half cm longer.
Since, even this is tall enough, I don't want to go size 55.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Orca and Avant have the same (or very close) head tube angle and rake. The only real difference is the longer chainstays on the avant, which actually puts more weight on to the front wheel (so not necessarily more stable). Minor difference in BB drop too.

I don't know what the tyre clearances are like but from the geometry table I'm not seeing any reason for you to go Avant over Orca. Some companies call a bike 'Endurance' and just mean tall head tubes instead of slackening angles to make the handling more relaxed.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:05 pm 
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i think it is 1-2 inches too high.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:29 pm 
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cyclenutnz wrote:
Orca and Avant have the same (or very close) head tube angle and rake. The only real difference is the longer chainstays on the avant, which actually puts more weight on to the front wheel

How is that?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:39 pm 
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It's not hard to calculate - set CoG in a fixed location and modify the FC and CS lengths - you'll quickly see how the proportions shift.
This is why good TT bikes have short CS - to move weight dist rearwards so they're more stable in aerobars.

Also why it is silly that some brands lengthen CS on big bikes while also steepening HTA to shorten FC.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:36 pm 
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I have the same issue and show a lot of seat post on these modern sloping frames. To answer the question, your pic looks good to me. For good looks the Evo or C59, C60 traditional geo look the best for large sized frames. I ride a team bike - S-works tarmac that has such a short seat tube on this latest model I can't even use it. I have to stay on SL-4 which is fine cuz I like the ride. I wish we would rice C-dale tho.


Last edited by tinozee on Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:38 pm 
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cyclenutnz wrote:
It's not hard to calculate - set CoG in a fixed location and modify the FC and CS lengths - you'll quickly see how the proportions shift.
This is why good TT bikes have short CS - to move weight dist rearwards so they're more stable in aerobars.

Also why it is silly that some brands lengthen CS on big bikes while also steepening HTA to shorten FC.


So what you mean is, to make the bike more stable, they need to use a fork with higher rake?

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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:38 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:32 pm 
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cyclenutnz wrote:
It's not hard to calculate

It's this calculation you've done that I would like to see.


And Toffie, did you mean "higher" or "longer"? As to slow down the front end, you'll want less (or "lower" if we're using your definition) rake.

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