Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Blog NEW Galleries NEW FAQ Contact About
It is currently Sun May 29, 2016 5:09 am
Recently the board software has been updated and there are some known bugs/failures:
- Avatars are currently not being displayed ✔ FIXED
- Tapatalk connection is currently broken ✔ FIXED

If you find more errors please post it here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=139062


All times are UTC+01:00





Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 2:32 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
I'm building up a new bike with Record EPS and want to mount the v2 power unit in the seat tube. The bottle cage bosses on the inside of the frame is sticking out JUST far enough that I can't get the battery passed them. So, the option I have is to have the battery on top of the bottle cages, which gives me about 10-11cm of seat post length in the frame. Is that enough? The frame is a NeilPryde Bura SL btw. The min. insertion for the seat post is marked as 85mm, so I'm passed that.

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 2:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:54 pm
Posts: 337
Min insertion written on the post is mostly enough. But to me sure, a few cm more is a better idea. So in your case, 10.5cm is quite good.
Since you can have 11cm inside the frame, I believe it is enough.

_________________
My Orbea Orca
My Stava
My Instagram


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 2:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:28 pm
Posts: 1405
I like to use the seat stays as a guide along with the minimum insertion recommendation on the seat post. If minimum insertion of the post does not extend past the bottom of the seat stays by at least a centimeter then it isn't long enough.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:33 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
The seat stays on the Bura are pretty far down, so I doubt that's a good guide to use… That would mean a VERY long seat post for pretty much everyone….

I've contacted NP and they're looking into it. First look, it's ok and safe. I'll keep WW community up to date with my progress. (and yes, photos ones it's done and built!)

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:51 pm 
Offline
Shop Owner

Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am
Posts: 670
Nice to see you stepped up the v2 power unit. So much better not seeing stuff like that hanging off the bike.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 4:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
Butcher wrote:
Nice to see you stepped up the v2 power unit. So much better not seeing stuff like that hanging off the bike.


The v1 power unit is just to big that it's difficult to mount it on a frame without the bosses on the underside of the down tube by the BB… anything else interferes with either the tire (mounted on the chain stay) or the second bottle cage (mounted on the bottle cage mounting bracket).

If I could shave about 1mm from the bottle cage bosses inside of the frame, this would fit perfect! Not easy to reach though… :noidea:

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:56 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:31 pm
Posts: 354
How about removing the bottle cage bosses and either forgoing the seat tube water bottle or wrap something grippy (piece of inner tube) around the seat tube at that point, and using zip ties to attach the water bottle cage. Good strong zip ties with something to keep them from slipping down the tube would work fine I think.

As for me, whenever I want to know what the minimum insertion is if I want to cut off a seat post, I just measure from the bottom up to the line, and mark a new line the same distance up from the shortened post.


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:30 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 26, 2007 11:57 am
Posts: 534
I would remove the rivet nuts and make 2 bolts from rounded washers with a welded on stud bolt.
(glued from the inside)

[img][img][/img][/img]

edit: what the heck happened to the upload img function??

_________________
Max Gravity, unfairly treated by gravity!


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:01 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
:evil: Really wish the image upload worked. This sounds like a good idea. But how the heck do I ever reach the rivet nuts? It's pretty far down in the seat tube. I guess I could drill them out, but that doesn't sound very comforting either… Plus then I still need to glue the washer in way down there...

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:16 pm 
Offline
Shop Owner

Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:58 am
Posts: 670
I had the same issue when I was building my rain bike. My answer was to replace the frame. I thought that was the best idea when I saw the big crack on the right chain stay.

The insurance company was not to happy paying me more money to buy a frame. I was ok with that. Solved my problem with installing the v2 power unit.


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 3:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:31 am
Posts: 453
As for how far to insert a seatpost into the seattube, 10-11cm is more than far enough. Way more than enough. I rode a bike with a carbon post that was only about 3 inches into the seattube. 3 inches from the top of the seattube. Worked just fine. Carbon bike frame and carbon post.


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:43 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
Replacing the frame is not an option. I'm really looking forward to riding the NP Bura SL this year.

RussellS, thanks for the input. Preliminary info from NP is that it's ok. They're looking into it further. Meanwhile, I've gotten everything built except the crank set install, still waiting for my Q-rings to arrive (been using Q-rings on all my bikes for years, so no reason to swap now).

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:14 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:04 am
Posts: 2689
Location: Mississippi
What would the seat stays matter?? The pressure is going to be to the front of the seat tube, so the top tube junction is what you want to extend past.

_________________
Mosaic RS-1
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=138478

Cielo by Chris King Cross Racer
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=134376


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:17 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 670
Location: Greater Pittsburgh
The seat post is well past the top tube intersection. Heck, by now, I'm just going to cut the post and hope for the best.

_________________
"Suddenly the thought struck me; my floor is someone elses ceiling" - Nils Ferlin


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:32 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Posts: 1229
Location: UK
btompkins0112 wrote:
What would the seat stays matter?? The pressure is going to be to the front of the seat tube, so the top tube junction is what you want to extend past.

bricky21 wrote:
I like to use the seat stays as a guide along with the minimum insertion recommendation on the seat post. If minimum insertion of the post does not extend past the bottom of the seat stays by at least a centimeter then it isn't long enough.

Certainly the case with steel, aluminium and titanium frames it's prudent to have the seatpost extend beyond the seatstay junction due to the stresses that can be inflicted which can lead to frames cracking.

It's different with carbon frames though. I've seen quite a few carbon frames where the actual seatpost fit diameter doesn't actually extend that far down the seat tube. A big part of a long seatpost can effectively be in fresh air, doing nothing.

10-11cm should be plenty. Neil Pryde should clearly state a minimum insert length if it's very different from the norm.


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 17 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. How much Seat Post can I cut from this?

in Road

McGilli

5

678

Fri Jul 17, 2015 11:18 am

aronjancso View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Attachment(s) Giant seat post help

in Road

tacostand

14

508

Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:24 pm

wingguy View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Schmolke seat post

in Road

BugsBunny7788

7

797

Thu May 19, 2016 1:23 pm

da123 View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Cervelo S3 seat post width?

in Road

Martin.dk

12

786

Fri Feb 12, 2016 4:32 pm

Martin.dk View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Lightweight Seat Post Clamp

in Road

sub7kg

1

565

Sun Jun 21, 2015 7:57 am

Frankie - B View the latest post


All times are UTC+01:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Exabot [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], MSNbot Media, skodacars and 23 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited