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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:55 pm 
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Location: UK North West
Hi, I want to swap an FSA gossamer chainset for an Hollogram chainset on a new evo, will I need to swap out the fsa bearings as well or will the hollogram fit in there fine? Many thanks.

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2015 Caad10 Ultegra 7.1kg
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:03 pm 
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Location: Eastern Coast of the Baltic Sea
Do you have the BB386 Evo Gossamer? If yes, the bearings can stay, but in any case you'll need a different set of spacers.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:16 pm 
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Canofale wrote:
Hi, I want to swap an FSA gossamer chainset for an Hollogram chainset on a new evo, will I need to swap out the fsa bearings as well or will the hollogram fit in there fine? Many thanks.

I'm pretty sure you can just swap out the crankset.

mrlobber wrote:
Do you have the BB386 Evo Gossamer? If yes, the bearings can stay, but in any case you'll need a different set of spacers.

May I ask why would he need any spacers? Cannondale bikes come with standard BB30 FSA Gossamer cranks. And hollowgram cranksets are made for cannondale BB30/PF30 bikes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:25 pm 
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That's why I asked if they're BB386 Evo or not. On FSA's website, there are Gossamer BB386 Evo and MegaExo versions only, maybe in OEM they still offer BB30.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:52 am 
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Yes, you can keep the bearings although I would immediately replace them since FSA bearings are horrible. They will wear out in about 5k (less if you ride in the wet).

EZO bearings are only 10€ each, they are exactly the same as Phil Wood....

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:33 pm 
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Don't touch the bearings. FSA bearings are fine and last far more than 5k. Totally unnecessary agitating the frame with the removal and refitting the BB assembly.

Hollowgram and FSA BB30 use the same BB30 bottom bracket. No reason to fiddle with it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 3:17 pm 
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Skylark wrote:
Don't touch the bearings. FSA bearings are fine and last far more than 5k. Totally unnecessary agitating the frame with the removal and refitting the BB assembly.

Hollowgram and FSA BB30 use the same BB30 bottom bracket. No reason to fiddle with it.


Yes, FSA bearings are OK, is just that sometimes there is little or no protective grease from the factory/bike shop. That is why some people say they last less than 5k.

During the crank change check the bearings, if they are really worn then change.

Remember to use Loctite retaining compound if you do install new bearings, and put a new layer of thick grease on the bearing exteriors.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:11 pm 
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Location: UK North West
Thanks for the input guys, it's a brand new bike, if I only get 5k from these bearings that's fine, I don't have the tools for that at the moment, I'll swap the bearings later.

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2015 Caad10 Ultegra 7.1kg
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 6:12 pm 
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Never use loctite if it's not neccesary. Loctite is your last option, should creaking noises will not disappear.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 6:54 pm 
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havana wrote:
Never use loctite if it's not neccesary. Loctite is your last option, should creaking noises will not disappear.


But for most Cannondales, the Loctite is necessary. Might as well use it right away and avoid the creaking issue.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:30 pm 
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Where in a carbon frame are you gonna put loctite? With PF30 which this carbon frame uses Loctite is absolutely unnecessary and useless.

There is some advice to use loctite in the CAAD10. This may hold merit but I still wouldn't.

Know the difference between PF30 and BB30. PF30 has bearings in a plastic assembly. The assembly itself fits into the carbon frame and retains its position in the frame using friction alone. BB30 OTOH are metal encased cartridges fitted directly into the BB shell (usually alloy frame) and this is susceptible to creaking.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:59 pm 
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Skylark wrote:
Where in a carbon frame are you gonna put loctite? With PF30 which this carbon frame uses Loctite is absolutely unnecessary and useless.

There is some advice to use loctite in the CAAD10. This may hold merit but I still wouldn't.

Know the difference between PF30 and BB30. PF30 has bearings in a plastic assembly. The assembly itself fits into the carbon frame and retains its position in the frame using friction alone. BB30 OTOH are metal encased cartridges fitted directly into the BB shell (usually alloy frame) and this is susceptible to creaking.


While I've never used loctite for PF30, according to Park Tools excellent BB service article it might be necessary to avoid creaking. The article recommends using loctite primers to allow the compounds to harden (given it's not a metal surface usually in the case of PF30).

Read on: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -section-3


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 1:32 pm 
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Skylark wrote:
Where in a carbon frame are you gonna put loctite? With PF30 which this carbon frame uses Loctite is absolutely unnecessary and useless.

There is some advice to use loctite in the CAAD10. This may hold merit but I still wouldn't.

Know the difference between PF30 and BB30. PF30 has bearings in a plastic assembly. The assembly itself fits into the carbon frame and retains its position in the frame using friction alone. BB30 OTOH are metal encased cartridges fitted directly into the BB shell (usually alloy frame) and this is susceptible to creaking.


If you download Cannondale's offical PF30 installation manual, Loctite 609 is used, Loctite 609 is also provided in Cannondale packaged PF30 BBs.

And of course Loctite 60 works great in BB30; metal on metal contact.

I see no reason not to use it, great preventative maintenance.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 5:53 pm 
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PF30 is not the same as BB30 !!!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 12:48 am 
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It's not.

But PF30 = Press Fit BB30.


;)


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