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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:20 pm 
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Location: New York
The single gear would depend on the type of climb and the gear that best matches your riding style and capabilities with that gear. Based on the type of climb I would go with maybe a selection of 2 to 3 gears which best match the sections of the climb based on my climbing ability.

First things first: I'll weight myself
Second: weigh my bike with any water bottles I'll be taking
Third: Take the total weight of the bike, myself and all other accessories
Fourth: Take practice runs of hill climb or similar hill with total weight and get ride times
Fifth: repeat and re-repeat practice runs until the achieved time goal or as close as you can get to that goal.
Sixth: Keep checking weight and time over said hill repeats. Total weight and ride time should go down as you reach your goal.

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Posted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:20 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 7:05 pm 
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Location: England
People that ride hill climbs on fixed will ride there hill climb bike most times but when the hill requires gears they just use a road bike
and If it weighs 6.45kg then thats not so bad

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yes, but how much does it weigh?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 11:56 pm 
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Location: San Francisco, CA
LowKeyHillclimbs: riding fixed on these roads may be manly, but it ain't fast.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:49 pm
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Location: Near Horgen, Switzerland
Regarding fixed, it's only manly if you're in too big a gear.

Pretty much all the good hillclimbers in the UK ride fixed and choose a gear to turn at about 80rpm. The billowing jacket, helmet, glasses, armwarmers and mudguard should be reserved for training rides.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 1:48 pm 
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Location: North London
We have to remember we're talking about a lower than usual fixed drivechain. It depends how consistent the grade is: if it changes a lot, geared all the way. If it is more of less the same grade all the way and you know more or less how quickly you will ride up it, take fixed with the correct chainring and sprocket for your pace.

If I didn't know, I'd rather have the gears for a bail-out and suffer the weight penalty. But if you know already roughly how you'll perform, take the fixed and go for it!

If you're worried about getting up it at all, geared or single speed. You don't wanna be rolling backwards!

Ay my personal level of fitness (far from race-ready) for a 10% grade I'd be looking at something like 36x21. or 36x23.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:28 pm
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Hi,

Planet x do a track version of their pro carbon frame... not titanium but around 1000g and horizontal drop outs


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 3:26 pm 
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Location: England
They weigh like 1600g
but It would make an interesting winter hill climb bike/ summer track bike

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yes, but how much does it weigh?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 7:09 pm
Posts: 37
Thanks for all the replies; didn't think one post would generate so much interest!

So, any track frames available that weigh in the region of 1000 grams?

Also, what about chainset, wheels, bars etc, any advice on those? I've never had a fixie before, so i'm a bit in the dark with it really.

I'd be looking to get the overall build down to 5.0 to 5.5kg otherwise its probably just not worth it really.

Cheers

Paul


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Location: England
the only one I know of is the dolan seta

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yes, but how much does it weigh?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 5:23 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
Man... seems like a super light fixies would be fairly common, but I don't know where they are hiding. A bit of searching hasn't brought up any really light track frames. This isn't bad, Dolan Seta: http://www.dolan-bikes.com/clearance/fr ... rm136.html

Calfee Tetra can be made with horizontal dropouts, but big $$$ there... like other custom options.

Might want to look at generic Chinese frames with a horizontal dropout.

Fixie parts are usually made very sturdy rather than light, but light road components will work in most areas.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
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TBH, once you've stripped all the useless stuff off a bike, to make it into an HC machine, an extra 3 or 400 grammes on the frame won't make a huge difference. Especially if it will mostly be adding stiffness.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:07 pm 
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Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
For a good track crankset, I recommend Miche Pista or Sram Omnium. The Miche uses square taper and the Sram uses GXP. Campagnolo Record Pista is also an option if you want to spend some dough.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:51 pm 
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Yeah perhaps not on the track crankset because they need a track chainring. Better to use a 130BCD crank that takes a square taper BB that allows you to set the chainline with spindle length. Or you can use spacers on the chainring bolts.

To be honest something like a Giant Omnium or the Langster Pro will make a decent hillclimb bike.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 am 
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Location: Los Angeles, California, USA
The Sugino RD2 crank is both 130BCD and uses square taper, FYI.

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Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 1:04 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 6:03 pm
Posts: 310
Location: Belfast
I remember one of the UK cycling magazines (Cycle Sport) did a photo feature on Simeoni's Cannondale? or maybe a Scott and a single speed dedicated hillclimb bike. which may have been a Cumpton?
Anyway the short article gave all the details and spec on each bike
It might be worth researching this article as it was quite good


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