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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:13 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Northern Ireland
Hi guys.

Long running issue/problem that some of us have been having with gear cabling hitting the front brake calliper.
I've had this on my winter/training bike and had to replacing my cabling 3 times due to damage brake is causing, but I finally solved this today.

Before:
Image

After:
Image

Used a standard V-Brake pipe guide, removed the inner lining, applied heat and bent to shape, repolished and reinsert liner.

Alan

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:28 pm
Posts: 1405
That's just weird. Not your fix, the cable hitting the brake issue. I've had several bikes with head tube cable stops and never had that issue. Can you post a head on photo? What kind of bike is that?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:09 am 
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Location: Northern Ireland
bricky21 wrote:
That's just weird. Not your fix, the cable hitting the brake issue. I've had several bikes with head tube cable stops and never had that issue. Can you post a head on photo? What kind of bike is that?



Hi, its an Airborne Thunderbolt.

Before:
Image

Alan

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:15 am 
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Location: Welland, Ontario
I had another comment written, but deleted. I too would like to see some more pictures of the whole setup. Still more please.

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:18 am 
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Location: Welland, Ontario
I see you have the right lever for the front brake. But what is up with those shifter cables?

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:20 am 
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Posts: 1405
There is some out of the ordinary stuff going on there. Why is the right cable drooping down so much? Do you have tension on it?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:42 am 
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Location: Northern Ireland
bikerjulio wrote:
I had another comment written, but deleted. I too would like to see some more pictures of the whole setup. Still more please.


After:
Image

bikerjulio wrote:
I see you have the right lever for the front brake. But what is up with those shifter cables?


The issue is: (before) the right cable gets damaged by the front brake when you turn left.

bricky21 wrote:
There is some out of the ordinary stuff going on there. Why is the right cable drooping down so much? Do you have tension on it?


This is because the front brake is hitting the cable and forcing it down whilst damaging it.

Alan

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:31 am 
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Posts: 35
Location: SF Bay Area
for one thing, I would say your housing runs are a tad too long = too much slop. another approach is to run the the shifter cables to the normally opposite cable stop and then cross the cables to the correct side under the down tube before they get to the bottom bracket. makes a simple little cable cross right underneath and in the middle of the downtube. this creates more efficient curves in front of the headtube...and in most cases alleviates interference with the brake cable. i swear this works perfectly.


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 Post subject: duplicate
PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:31 am 
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Posts: 35
Location: SF Bay Area
oops


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2013 7:16 pm
Posts: 7
That's what happens when you use the right brake lever for the front brake, normally it's the other way around. Right is rear, left is front.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:27 am 
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Location: Northern Ireland
eflayer wrote:
for one thing, I would say your housing runs are a tad too long = too much slop. another approach is to run the the shifter cables to the normally opposite cable stop and then cross the cables to the correct side under the down tube before they get to the bottom bracket. makes a simple little cable cross right underneath and in the middle of the downtube. this creates more efficient curves in front of the headtube...and in most cases alleviates interference with the brake cable. i swear this works perfectly.


Hi, cables are slightly too long to allow me to remove the handle bars or turn them for transport or storage. I've tried running the cables on the opposite sides but it makes it even worse as that puts an extreme s bend in the cable. There is only 20mm before the brake is in the way and the brake still hits the cable. If my stops were on the down tube then there would be no issue as the cable would have space to bend.

apexrider wrote:
That's what happens when you use the right brake lever for the front brake, normally it's the other way around. Right is rear, left is front.


Hi, It doesn't matter what way it's cabled as the brake is still in the way. This is the standard setup in the UK.

Alan

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:38 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2013 7:16 pm
Posts: 7
alanjob wrote:
apexrider wrote:
That's what happens when you use the right brake lever for the front brake, normally it's the other way around. Right is rear, left is front.


Hi, It doesn't matter what way it's cabled as the brake is still in the way. This is the standard setup in the UK.

Alan


You're right, my mistake.

Just took a picture of my setup, hopefully it's of some help.
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:43 am 
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Posts: 55
Location: Northern Ireland
apexrider wrote:
alanjob wrote:
apexrider wrote:
That's what happens when you use the right brake lever for the front brake, normally it's the other way around. Right is rear, left is front.


Hi, It doesn't matter what way it's cabled as the brake is still in the way. This is the standard setup in the UK.

Alan


You're right, my mistake.

Just took a picture of my setup, hopefully it's of some help.


Hi, nice bike, looks a good size, could be why I have the problem because mine is a small frame (53 cm).

Alan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:06 pm
Posts: 112
Location: NC, USA
This is the best solution to your problem. And shorten the housing as much as possib;e. This gives you long smooth bends with minimal cable friction. I'm surprised your solution with the noodle shifts at all.



eflayer wrote:
for one thing, I would say your housing runs are a tad too long = too much slop. another approach is to run the the shifter cables to the normally opposite cable stop and then cross the cables to the correct side under the down tube before they get to the bottom bracket. makes a simple little cable cross right underneath and in the middle of the downtube. this creates more efficient curves in front of the headtube...and in most cases alleviates interference with the brake cable. i swear this works perfectly.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:13 pm
Posts: 55
Location: Northern Ireland
darnellrm wrote:
This is the best solution to your problem. And shorten the housing as much as possib;e. This gives you long smooth bends with minimal cable friction. I'm surprised your solution with the noodle shifts at all.



eflayer wrote:
for one thing, I would say your housing runs are a tad too long = too much slop. another approach is to run the the shifter cables to the normally opposite cable stop and then cross the cables to the correct side under the down tube before they get to the bottom bracket. makes a simple little cable cross right underneath and in the middle of the downtube. this creates more efficient curves in front of the headtube...and in most cases alleviates interference with the brake cable. i swear this works perfectly.


Hi, it doesn't matter what way the cable runs theres too extreme a bend which is made worse by the brake when turning left. Other people have this issue and noodle ;) solves this. Alan



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

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My Bikes


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