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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:19 pm
Posts: 369
I have a Foil frameset on order which I am going to build up with Campagnolo SR. I've actually never had a frameset with internal routing before, so I'm not quite sure how it works generally, and on the Foil specifically - do you need to have cable housing running all of the way through the frame, or are the entry ports effectively cable stops, so that the outer cable only runs as far as the frame entry points?

I've previously used jagwire brake cabling together with campagnolo gear cabling on my externally routed frames, the thinking being that the biggest weight saving from lighter cables is for the brakes, and also I'm not sure if there are compatibility problems with campagnolo gear shifting and jagwire.

I can't be bothered with aluminium link systems such as i-links and nokon, I've used them before but they are just too much hassle. What would be the lightest cable setup to use for a Foil+Campagnolo without compromising on functionality? I'm thinking that if the cable housing has to run all of the way through the frame, the weight of the cables becomes a significant consideration (but maybe it doesn't?).


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Posted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:34 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:54 am
Posts: 359
Location: Australia
the cable housing doesn't run inside the frame. Yes the entry/exit ports are your cable stops.
if you're not interested in aluminium compression-less cable housings then maybe just stick to campy or shimano cables as they work flawlessly (unfortunately they're not very light).

Personally I think Nokon or iLink cable sets are worth the trouble.

I've tried Nokon, iLink, shimano ptfe and yokozuna reaction cables on my Foil Premium and Foil 20.
Yokozuna Reaction is by far the best braking and shifting and iLink is the lighest.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:19 pm
Posts: 369
Great, thanks. I might just stick with campy + jagwire then, the jagwire brake cables seem to work very well and they are a bit lighter than the campag ones.

One problem I had with iLink + campag in the past is the links getting stuck inside the lever body, It was a nightmare! Do you use some sort of non-iLink extension for the channels leading into the levers? Maybe it was something to do with the standard campag cables being slightly narrower or something, so that the channel is a very tight fit.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:29 pm
Posts: 983
Location: UK
You might find the below link usefull in terms of weight comparisons of Campag vs the weenie alternatives:

http://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/topi ... uperlight/

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 9:54 am
Posts: 359
Location: Australia
neeb wrote:
Great, thanks. I might just stick with campy + jagwire then, the jagwire brake cables seem to work very well and they are a bit lighter than the campag ones.

One problem I had with iLink + campag in the past is the links getting stuck inside the lever body, It was a nightmare! Do you use some sort of non-iLink extension for the channels leading into the levers? Maybe it was something to do with the standard campag cables being slightly narrower or something, so that the channel is a very tight fit.


I use Di2 and don't have a problem with the brake cable housing sticking inside the lever body. It fits very tight in the body but easy enough to push out with a tiny screw driver.
I can't see a problem with using a short length of Jagwire or something inside the lever body. That'll definitely solve your problem.
In fact, Nokon cables use quite a long length of standard cable, under the full length of your bartape, before it becomes little beads.
might be worth looking into if you want to loose weight.

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