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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 12:29 am 
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Grill, what helmet is that?

Dat position!

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 12:54 am 
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Bell Javelin. Keep in mind being a Drag2Zero rider he has full access to a tunnel and Simon Smart so they would have chosen that helmet for Botty after testing pretty much everything on the market.

He's still the fastest postman I know of!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:01 am 
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Aware of that. Just interested in the helmet model.

Ta.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:05 am 
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Wow thank you all for the amazing replies! Im in the process of getting all the rider and bike info off him, i can confirm the lightweights are just the wheels on it for the photo. He has a Firecrest 808 and 2014 sub 9 disc for race day so that solves that! Ill update when i have the build list for everyone!

Thank you so much!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:09 am 
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Tinea Pedis wrote:
Grill, what helmet is that?

Dat position!

Image


Ps this is brilliant :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 3:10 pm 
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while we are on TT everything....

best wind tunnel in Australia for TT work - keeping in mind that they need to be experienced in TT setup as well as Aero.

I have some of simon smarts booties coming - might have to do some testing with the castelli and a smart suit too!

165mm cranks and a higher seat are the next aero thing too :D


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:02 pm 
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Location: Ruidoso, NM
I've been running 150mm cranks this year and increased drop 2cm. Definitely no power loss, but I was hoping for a noticeable gain. Feels way better though.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 4:03 pm 
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weeracerweenie wrote:
Wow thank you all for the amazing replies! Im in the process of getting all the rider and bike info off him, i can confirm the lightweights are just the wheels on it for the photo. He has a Firecrest 808 and 2014 sub 9 disc for race day so that solves that! Ill update when i have the build list for everyone!


That makes it tougher...

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:19 pm 
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WMW, I'm interested to know what cranks you're using, in fact anything shorter than 165mm. Many thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:41 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
For race day remove all the bearing seals but the outer most ones on each hub and the BB, clean out the grease, and run sowing machine oil. This will give a huge improvement regardless if you are running steel bearings or ceramics. Ceramics will just survive that sort of abuse longer (because the balls won't corrode) and give a hint more speed. If you leave the bearings that way you might want to put a little oil back into each bearing each time you ride them but make sure to wipe away the excess with a lint free cloth to stop debris/dust/dirt from getting collected.

(BMB have EZO and HSC bearings for zipp wheels.....)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:56 am 
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williamsf1 wrote:
165mm cranks and a higher seat are the next aero thing too :D

Links for this?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:05 am 
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^ I don't think it's an aero gain based on the cranks themselves, but more to do with more open hip angle it affords some riders at the top of the pedal stroke. I don't know whether the benefit of this might be cancelled out by having to raise the bars concomitant with the seatpost, though.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:39 am 
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Some things not mentioned yet:
Helmet with visor vs. helmet with glasses;
put tape on the valve hole (obvious);
think about rain/wind when choosing wheels and especially brake pads + rim material (depending on course) (still the most valid reason some riders opt for clinchers, namely the alu braking surface);

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:10 pm 
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Nick

http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/a ... ength.html

so far we have gone 172.5 to 170 - this is all with the front end slammed as far as you can go (knuckles nearly on the top of the front tyre) as we are talking a 48cm frame and someone who is crazy flexible.... (forearms on the ground kinda thing! from standing up straight...)

using dartfish software I have been working on how we can reduce Cd - as increasing power is very hard, but a few watts saved via drag add up when you are only talking 5w out of 240w unlike big bruiser TT boys when 5w out of 450w....

so yeah 165mm will raise the seat and keep the same hip angle with a flatter back and smaller frontal area.

I'm keen to try both cranks in the wind tunnel soon, also :D


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 6:12 pm 
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shimmeD wrote:
WMW, I'm interested to know what cranks you're using, in fact anything shorter than 165mm. Many thanks.


There is a guy in the US who will shorten certain cranksets for ~$70. On Octalinks (which is what I was running anyway) it's 22mm, so he can leave enough around the pedal hole, and still avoid getting into the hollow channel.

http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/shorten.html

The other alternative is to use BMX cranks which come in short lengths.

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