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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:52 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Vejle, Denmark
Hi,

So I bought a second hand bike for a winter project, and thought "Hey, great deal - It comes with a crankset!". Boy, was I wrong.

It turns out that the reason why the previous owner left on the crank, was probably because he was unable to get it off. The screwhead on the Shimano-Known-As dust cover is completely ruined.

I've tried knocking in a 6 mm, in hopes to get it off, but without much luck - Now I'm really looking for a good advice on how the F*** to remove this crankset. I don't mind damaging the crankset, as long as the frame is undamaged.

Ideas much apriciated!

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My bikes incl. De Rosa Superking and Cervelo R3
Twitter & Instagram - @mathiasbregnhoj


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:04 am
Posts: 2345
Location: Mississippi
Drill the screw out would be my plan. Maybe one of those stripped screw removal tools might work as well.

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Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:11 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:17 am
Posts: 37
Location: Watertown, New York
Penetrating oil, heat/cold cycles, and a screw extractor. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:47 pm
Posts: 68
Location: UK/Industry
A photo would be useful to see the problem!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Posts: 633
Location: Reading, UK
I had to remove a stronglight crankset the hard way once when the so-called single key release turned out to be wildly unfit for purpose and anything but. That was an old-style three piece crankset. The method is to hacksaw a slot onto the metal of the crank where it attaches to the spindle. When the slot is big enough to get a chisel in, use that to try and prise the slot open and crack the metal. The intent is to loosen the grip of the crank on the spindle such that you can get the crank off. The crank is destroyed, of course... but by that point you're feeling vengeful about it anyway. Take care not to damage yourself or the bike in all this.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 6:30 am
Posts: 23
I had the same problem, I ended up sawing both sides of the left crankarms next to the cap. Once you get the top piece on each side of the crank to come off, you should be able to remove the left crankarm. Then destroy the cap until you can slide it through the BB to get the right side out. Will try to provide you pics later.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:52 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Vejle, Denmark
Smallring wrote:
I had the same problem, I ended up sawing both sides of the left crankarms next to the cap. Once you get the top piece on each side of the crank to come off, you should be able to remove the left crankarm. Then destroy the cap until you can slide it through the BB to get the right side out. Will try to provide you pics later.


Sounds really great! Would be appriciated.

If I ever get a FSA Crankset, i'll defintly find another dust-cover. It's shit quality.

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My bikes incl. De Rosa Superking and Cervelo R3
Twitter & Instagram - @mathiasbregnhoj


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Don't know if I can post attachment here. Maybe provide your email address, I will email you the pics.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:52 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Vejle, Denmark
You might try going to Photobucket or simillar.

You just need to press the e-mail button, and my e-mail will appear!

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My bikes incl. De Rosa Superking and Cervelo R3
Twitter & Instagram - @mathiasbregnhoj


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:28 pm
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Bregnhoj wrote:
You just need to press the e-mail button, and my e-mail will appear!


That's exactly what the spammers do BTW.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 6:30 am
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Image

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:46 am 
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Location: New Zealand
Hammer in a stardrive that is the next size up from the allenkey, then remove normally.......wow they were some exhausting methods, otherwise! (though all workable, I'm sure).....don't forget the penetrating oil etc....thats just sensible ;) Worst possible outcome is that the head breaks off at which point it's job done, anyway.

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Used to race....got too wrinkly and old ;) Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:43 am 
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Location: Vejle, Denmark
theremery wrote:
Hammer in a stardrive that is the next size up from the allenkey, then remove normally.......wow they were some exhausting methods, otherwise! (though all workable, I'm sure).....don't forget the penetrating oil etc....thats just sensible ;) Worst possible outcome is that the head breaks off at which point it's job done, anyway.

I have tried to do so without luck.

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Twitter & Instagram - @mathiasbregnhoj


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:50 am
Posts: 315
If the bolt is aluminum then it will not come out. I had the same thing on a Rotor 3D. I have never seen anything seize that bad even when I was an auto technician in my younger years.

I honestly would try the air duster trick to freeze the center bolt to see if it helps at all. On the rotor, even once I drilled out the entire center of the bolt the remaining aluminum didn't want to come free.

Then again since you don't care about the crank just take to that center bolt with a large drill bit around 3/8 or 1/2" to drill off the head, leaving the center in the spindle.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:52 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Vejle, Denmark
I went ahead and took Smallring's advice and simply sawed the crank off.

Image

I now keep this photo with my components. I think it'll scare any component and keep them from messing with me in the future...

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My bikes incl. De Rosa Superking and Cervelo R3
Twitter & Instagram - @mathiasbregnhoj


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Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:36 am 


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