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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 1:12 pm 
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Location: London, UK
Hi

I have just installed SR11 EPS with the V2 battery, so want to minimise the clutter on the bike.

Currently I have zipties holding the wiring from the interface to the brake cable outer. But I'd rather eliminate these entirely so it looks cleaner. I've seen heat shrink used on some bikes and wonder what variety works. Any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:20 pm 
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Location: Bristol, UK
Heatshrink is the best option, I did that to mine to tidy it up.


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Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:20 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 5:34 pm 
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Heatshrink is great, but it requires you to thread both the bike cable and the EPS cable through it before connecting the ends. I used the spiral wrap that came with EPS kit
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:15 pm 
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Location: Kent, UK
Heat shrink works great but as mvacolnago said, you have to thread both cables through before shrinking it which is a pain if you've already done the cabling.

As for which, almost any will do but the important numbers are the starting diameter and shrinkage ratio so you know what the final size will be, thus bit of measuring is advisable before buying, rembering that the end connectors for eps have to fit through the non shrunk tubing too. I would tend to go for the size that will shrink to too small than too big as the cables won't really suffer from the compressive stress heat shrink will grenerate. I think I chose 10mm diameter with a 2:1 ratio for my Di2 and could have possibly gone a bit smaller in the end.

If you don't want to redo the cables, spiral wrap is good alternative.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 12:29 pm 
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I used some black tape as the wiring was already done. it looks nicer than the spiral wrap.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:00 pm 
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Heat shrink is the way.. Also you can put the junction box in side the stem... :


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:40 pm 
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Or put it inside the stem. Then you never have to see it.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:33 pm 
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Putting it in the stem is a non starter. I'm using the v2 battery so need to be able to see the lights. The Garmin mount is the perfect mounting point.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:55 pm 
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Location: Phoenix Arizona
Get a 3T stem and shave the plastic case off the brain. Drop it inside the stem cap :)

Removing the cap for programming is no big deal and frankly, once the initial set up is done, making adjustments doesnt require seeing the light at all...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:08 am 
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How would you check battery charge level?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 5:55 am 
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My thoughts exactly. The idea of having to readjust my headset every time I wanted to check the battery seem insane to me.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 1:52 pm 
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Charging the battery is the way to go. If you think it is low, then charge it. I'm pretty conservative so I have never had an issue

I did run a fiber optic lead from the LED to the tip of my stem cap. It worked, but was hard to see in bright daylight.

2 years and I have never wished it was exposed. I originally had concerns like you, but there are none now. Matter of fact, the only exposed wires on my installation are at the front and rear derailleurs.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:13 pm 
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First, After 2 years, I have never once needed to check my battery...

I just charge it once a month or so.


And there is no need to do anything with your headset etc... The cap piece just screws on. There is no effect of the stem mount to the bike or the handlebars.

The stem Cap is the top front (just above the handlebars at the front with the "3T" on it). I'm not talking about the steer tube cap / head set adjuster...

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2015 7:09 am 
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Thanks Charles. I'm not worried about the interface being out and I will need it visible as I swap wheels so need to fine tune the shifting when I do.

The other thing is a question of aesthetics. The 3t Integra stem just grates on me, as well as being a tad porky to boot.

Thanks for the input.


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Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 7:09 am 


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