Felt 2014 AR1

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
mitchgixer6
Posts: 228
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm

by mitchgixer6

I'd be tempted just to leave it as is after the grinding. Looks like a good solution to me.

emartin
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

by emartin

mitchgixer6 wrote:I'd be tempted just to leave it as is after the grinding. Looks like a good solution to me.


Yes, it's quite clean but the space isn't that much, it's at the limit of my "comfort zone". Also, the force to be apply on the lever is quit greater than before, not ideal for me. I race twice a week, mostly crits.

by Weenie


spud
Posts: 630
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:52 am

by spud

I think you might have the optimal solution - the decreased leverage will allow you to run the pads a little further from the rim, so less chance of pad scrubbing the rim as you ride out of the saddle.

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

I heard some bad stuff about the Tektro performance yesterday at my race. It was from an AR owner's son...might even be one of you...

emartin
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

by emartin

Maybe some input from SuperDave would be nice at this time. Because for a Stages Powermeter user, the options are:

. Grind the Shimano direct mount caliper with minimal clearance and the risk associated with a modified component.
. Stiff (unusable) brake lever with Tektro caliper... some information about this setup would be nice because I had not been able to tune it to a acceptable installation
. Trek Madone caliper? Just went to a Trek dealer (also a Stages dealer) and they said that Stages told them the Stages would not fit on a Madone.
. Wait until the very expensive direct mount Ebrake release... but when?
. Sell the Stages and buy a 3x more expensive powermeter crank.

SuperDave
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Location: Newport Beach, CA
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by SuperDave

Mize wrote:I heard some bad stuff about the Tektro performance yesterday at my race. It was from an AR owner's son...might even be one of you...


DPGP?

I have a T750 on my AR1 and have been pleased with the performance. It isn't as "grippy" as the DA9000 front but it can lock up the rear wheel with one finger on the lever and that's more than adequate for me. I'm using Jagwire linkage housing to reduce compression for a crisper feel at the lever.

Image

-SD

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

No, this was at OSRS #7 in Germantown, Ohio.

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

Just in case anyone here has experienced this I'm reposting from another thread I started...

---
Started in yesterday's races. Repeated today.

Basically if I hit a good sized bump, my rear derailleur will go slightly between gears - like I tried to shift but the cable wasn't tight enough.
Here's the strange part...I can shift up and down on the cassette and the problem persists with the "between gears" sound...the only thing that stops it is a quick shift to my smaller chainring and back to the big one...a "re-shift" of the FD if you will.

So on the one hand it seems like a FD alignment problem since "re-shifting" the FD fixes the problem. On the other hand there is zero FD rub with this problem, only RD noise...almost like the bump slightly rotates the RD and the "re-shift" straightens it out again.

Any ideas?

This is SRAM Red 22, standard cranks, 11-28 cassette. Hanger was checked just three weeks ago and wheel is seated and tight.

Thanks.

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simon
Resident Pro
Posts: 1784
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:34 am

by simon

mize:check the plastic cable guide under the bb. fd cable tension might relocate that piece because it doesn't sit right at the moment.zero problems with my ar with sram red22 setup.
all in all very happy with the bike,seems to combine the best of both worlds without the usual harshness of aeroframes.

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

Will do!
Thanks.

emartin
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 3:10 am
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

by emartin

SuperDave wrote:
Mize wrote:I heard some bad stuff about the Tektro performance yesterday at my race. It was from an AR owner's son...might even be one of you...


DPGP?

I have a T750 on my AR1 and have been pleased with the performance. It isn't as "grippy" as the DA9000 front but it can lock up the rear wheel with one finger on the lever and that's more than adequate for me. I'm using Jagwire linkage housing to reduce compression for a crisper feel at the lever.

Image

-SD

I would love to have more detail to make it work. Di you used the Jagwire Road Elite Link housing? Also, did you used a flexible noodle? At last, did your caliper look like this one... This is what Tektro directly ship to me as a T750R caliper.
Thanks, I would love to love my bike again...
Image

SuperDave
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Posts: 477
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:57 am
Location: Newport Beach, CA
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by SuperDave

Mize wrote:Just in case anyone here has experienced this I'm reposting from another thread I started...

---
Started in yesterday's races. Repeated today.

Basically if I hit a good sized bump, my rear derailleur will go slightly between gears - like I tried to shift but the cable wasn't tight enough.
Here's the strange part...I can shift up and down on the cassette and the problem persists with the "between gears" sound...the only thing that stops it is a quick shift to my smaller chainring and back to the big one...a "re-shift" of the FD if you will.

So on the one hand it seems like a FD alignment problem since "re-shifting" the FD fixes the problem. On the other hand there is zero FD rub with this problem, only RD noise...almost like the bump slightly rotates the RD and the "re-shift" straightens it out again.

Any ideas?

This is SRAM Red 22, standard cranks, 11-28 cassette. Hanger was checked just three weeks ago and wheel is seated and tight.

Thanks.


Any chance the cables are twisted around each other inside the downtube?

-sD

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

Well, I had the new lbs check that a few weeks back when I had a similar issue. I think I'll check it myself.

Nobody has the darn hanger tool in stock locally for that one either.

So cables tonight, hanger tomorrow at the lbs.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Mize
Posts: 163
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:10 pm
Location: Cincinnati Area, Ohio, USA

by Mize

SuperDave wrote:Any chance the cables are twisted around each other inside the downtube?

-sD


SuperDave, is there any simple way to check this?

by Weenie


SuperDave
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Location: Newport Beach, CA
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by SuperDave

emartin wrote:
SuperDave wrote:
Mize wrote:I heard some bad stuff about the Tektro performance yesterday at my race. It was from an AR owner's son...might even be one of you...


DPGP?

I have a T750 on my AR1 and have been pleased with the performance. It isn't as "grippy" as the DA9000 front but it can lock up the rear wheel with one finger on the lever and that's more than adequate for me. I'm using Jagwire linkage housing to reduce compression for a crisper feel at the lever.
-SD

I would love to have more detail to make it work. Di you used the Jagwire Road Elite Link housing? Also, did you used a flexible noodle? At last, did your caliper look like this one... This is what Tektro directly ship to me as a T750R caliper.
Thanks, I would love to love my bike again...
Image


I was meticulous with the preparation. You need to make sure the inner wire has no kinks or bends. I use the DA9000 inner wire but I think the PTFE coated cables are just as good in this application with the Elite Link housing. I did not use the flexible noodle as that would add compression and thus a softer lever feel as some of the initial stroke would be used to take out slack in the system, not move the caliper arms.

I have the same rear brake but I changed brake pads to a slightly longer and higher profile unit from Ashima.

The one thing I did custom was reduce the spring tension by removing the set screws and using a jewelers file to open the slot slightly reducing the spring tension further. High spring tension is only useful here when the cable housing is kinked or has to make many sharp bends, such as the inside of an internally routed aerobar on a TT bike. Tektro borrows the T925 bits to actuate the arms of the T750 and I think it is oversprung with DA9070 levers. After opening the spring stop slots I reinstall whichever set screw is needed to balance the spring tension. There is no need for both screws.

-SD

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