2011 SRAM Red Crankset On 2012/13 FD Yaw - chain rub?
Moderator: robbosmans
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Just upgrading my bike from Shimano.
I bought a new 2011 SRAM Red black edition 50/34 compact crankset 10-speed, and the 2012/2013 Red front derailleur yaw as well (the latter because it was a good deal). I am running the 2012/2013 Red 11-28T 10-speed cassette right now.
Has anyone managed to install the new SRAM red front derailleur and not experienced any chain rub for the 2 extremes running 34 front with 11T back, or 50 front with 28T in the back?
I bought a new 2011 SRAM Red black edition 50/34 compact crankset 10-speed, and the 2012/2013 Red front derailleur yaw as well (the latter because it was a good deal). I am running the 2012/2013 Red 11-28T 10-speed cassette right now.
Has anyone managed to install the new SRAM red front derailleur and not experienced any chain rub for the 2 extremes running 34 front with 11T back, or 50 front with 28T in the back?
this...
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/ ... ity_209270
...suggests you'll get chain rub at the extreme positions
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/ ... ity_209270
...suggests you'll get chain rub at the extreme positions
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sungod wrote:this...
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/ ... ity_209270" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
...suggests you'll get chain rub at the extreme positions
I read that. that says it's possible to experience chain run with that crankset and that 11-23 cassette with 53/39 crankset.
What I am interested in is whether people actually had success setting the new yaw front derailleur up with the older generation red crankset, so that they got no chain rub.
You're going to end up with a little chain rub on that setup and the reason is a little counter-intuitive. The older generation red has a slightly narrower chainring spacing than the new Yaw compatible version. This actually creates more chain rub because when you set your low limit screw the derailleur will not have as much rotation because it will not need to travel as far to drop the chain to the little ring. The extra bit of rotation given by the extra chainring spacing makes all the difference with regards to chain rub in the little-little combination. This will be the case on any cassette range with a properly set up Yaw FD on an older generation crankset.
I am running 2010 FORCE cranks with 2011 RED chainrings and the 2013 Yaw derailleur.
No rub. And I cross-chain to the max frequently.
I am also running exactly the same: 50/34 and 11/28
But it does take a bit if successive adjustments to get it just right. The factory installation instruction is a good starting point; but from there I couldn't describe exactly how I did it, except to say that you alternate between lowest gear and highest gear while successively adjusting the limit screws and maybe adjusting the angle slightly.
I also have a derailleur alignment gage, so I always start by making sure that is straight.
If you are having lots of trouble, remember to also double-check cable tension. The derailleur cage should not 'fall back' any when you shift from the small ring to big ring position. It should go outward till it clicks and then stay exactly there. No "overshift". The outer position should provide just barely enough clearance for the crank arm to pass without clicking.
No rub. And I cross-chain to the max frequently.
I am also running exactly the same: 50/34 and 11/28
But it does take a bit if successive adjustments to get it just right. The factory installation instruction is a good starting point; but from there I couldn't describe exactly how I did it, except to say that you alternate between lowest gear and highest gear while successively adjusting the limit screws and maybe adjusting the angle slightly.
I also have a derailleur alignment gage, so I always start by making sure that is straight.
If you are having lots of trouble, remember to also double-check cable tension. The derailleur cage should not 'fall back' any when you shift from the small ring to big ring position. It should go outward till it clicks and then stay exactly there. No "overshift". The outer position should provide just barely enough clearance for the crank arm to pass without clicking.
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Any more real life experiences by other people and their bikes?
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Zipp Vumaqaud compact crank with new Red Yaw FD - I either get a bit of noise in the small ring or the big. I get to choose - one or the other. Add headphones and it all goes away.
Not sure that it shifts any better than my outgoing orig Red FD. I suspect my front rings are worn, so I'm replacing them this coming week in conjunction with new shift cables so the whole system will get a fresh tune. Will report back.
Not sure that it shifts any better than my outgoing orig Red FD. I suspect my front rings are worn, so I'm replacing them this coming week in conjunction with new shift cables so the whole system will get a fresh tune. Will report back.
Last edited by Johnny Rad on Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
I have a Yaw FD and Quark Elsa (and previously a Cinco) crank and older Red chainrings. No derailleur rub, but the chain does rub the inside of the 50t ring when in the 34t and the smallest cog or two. I don't use those anyhow so it doesn't bother me.
The Yaw FD is the most difficult FD to set up that I have ever used. Yes, I followed the directions.
It does shift well once set up.
The Yaw FD is the most difficult FD to set up that I have ever used. Yes, I followed the directions.
It does shift well once set up.
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Johnny Rad wrote:Zipp Vumaqaud compact crank with new Red Yaw FD - I either get a bit of run in the small ring or the big. I get to choose - one or the other. Add headphones and it all goes away.
Not sure that it shifts any better than my outgoing orig Red FD. I suspect my front rings are worn, so I'm replacing them this coming week in conjunction with new shift cables so the whole system will get a fresh tune. Will report back.
I only care about people's 2011 Red crank on 2012/2013 Red front derailleur. Not asking about Zipp
Chainstay length can influence this problem since shorter chainstays force the chain to make slightly greater angles at the extremes.
My bike has "longish" 410mm chainstays. The trend in recent years seems to be toward "ridiculously" short chainstays. 406mm, 404mm, etc
It doesn't seem like a couple mm can make much difference, but eventually you reach a limit and you just have to get some rubbing.
My bike has "longish" 410mm chainstays. The trend in recent years seems to be toward "ridiculously" short chainstays. 406mm, 404mm, etc
It doesn't seem like a couple mm can make much difference, but eventually you reach a limit and you just have to get some rubbing.
applebaconator wrote:I only care about people's 2011 Red crank on 2012/2013 Red front derailleur. Not asking about Zipp
what do you think the difference is between red 2011 cranks and other red pre-yaw ones?
as Rick points out, frame size/geometry will have an effect, maybe the chain too
if you post all that information, and someone on the forum has tried exactly the same combination, perhaps they will care enough to let you know, otherwise you will have to live with people with non-identical set-ups simply trying to be helpful
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I also have problems with a complete 2012 force group with a sram red yaw front derailleur. If i run 34/12 than I have chainrub. The chain is rubbing against the big chainring.
If I mount a 2013 outer chainring on my force crank is that solves the problem? Or need I change the crank for a red 2013?
If I mount a 2013 outer chainring on my force crank is that solves the problem? Or need I change the crank for a red 2013?
That's what happens with a 50/34 and short chain stays. Don't use the smallest cog or two with the small chain ring.
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I don't use them but is it possible tot run it with a red crank without cain rub?
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No rub with that set up on various bikes in the past year or so.
34 x 11 may hit the teeth of the large chainring depending on your frame geo, so you want to avoid that combo when you can.
34 x 11 may hit the teeth of the large chainring depending on your frame geo, so you want to avoid that combo when you can.
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